I want to wire tuck the feiro engine bay to make it look great. Anyone ever done it? If you got a clean engine bay please post a pic.

Hey!

I will start off by stating I am sorry... no pics here (yet). What engine are you looking for? (since they will all be different)

I will be doing my project in corrugated tubing, wrapped in shrink tube and electrical tape and keeping in mind where the "hot" spots are in the bay. Also, I think it is very critical to keep an eye out for any lubricants leaking from the engine/transmission.. etc. They can ruin the tuck job in a hurry, as well as dirty up the bay too! Since I don't think mine is too applicable (I only need 4-5 wires for engine controls/sensors), I can't really help out with pictures anyways... but I am sure other members have some wicked photos of ... well... lack of wires! Good luck on your search and remember to post pics when you complete yours!

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Phil
Always trying to create something new!
'88 SE
'86 GT
'87 GT Extreme body mod and 2.8L Turbo Propane powered (in the garage and getting closer to being completed)

I'm assuming you're talking about the 2.8 V6. The 2.8 actually doesn't have a lot of wiring. And GM did a pretty good job of making it inconspicuous. That said, some spark plug wire holders will clean up the appearance of the plug wires.

IMO, the greatest amount of clutter on the 2.8 V6 is all the pipes and hoses going everywhere. You can delete the throttle body coolant lines and re-route the PCV lines. You could also consolidate some of the vacuum lines, using some vacuum hose and fittings. And if you convert to a CS alternator and relocate the ignition coil, you can delete the trunk blower thingy.

And if you're willing to convert to the 7730 ECM, you can delete the whole cold start injector system.

Here's a YouTube video of my old 2.8 with a lot of the extraneous junk cleared out. Although, I should add that I don't live in an "enviro-nazi" state, so I was able to delete the EGR as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ePJ6UgotsRU

I hear wire tucking is another great way to start fires on fieros HAHAHAHAHA Ricky made a funny

Good lookin motor black tree. Any info on the fuel pressure gauge would be cool. I like it but dont want to shell out 60 bucks at the fiero store. here how i want mine to look.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!! FWD backwards piece of Ricer two toed hobgoblins!!!!!!

J/K! That is one clean engine bay. That much I have to give!

It's the Fiero Store fuel pressure gauge, LOL.

Wow, now that engine bay is CLEAN! If you want similar results with a 2.8, you're in for a lot of work.

Im expecting to spend a lot of time on it. Im just wondering about all the lines next to the thermo housing. Also, can some of the vacuum controlled items (egs siloniod, map sensor) be re located to a different location to clean up the intake?

Have you worked with shrink tube before? I have seen amazing things done with people who have added length to their wires by soldering and shrink tubing, then hiding/rerouting the wires to hide them. As far as any vacuum tubing, replace with a longer tube so that you can reroute it to a more inconspicuous place.

quote Originally posted by Philero: Have you worked with shrink tube before? I have seen amazing things done with people who have added length to their wires by soldering and shrink tubing, then hiding/rerouting the wires to hide them. As far as any vacuum tubing, replace with a longer tube so that you can reroute it to a more inconspicuous place.

Thats what i was going to do. Extend the vac lines and connector wires and re locate them. Im also thinking how to hide the wire coming out of the firewall.

How's this?

^ That looks really nice.

On the 2.8 V6, you can pretty much attach the vacuum hoses wherever you want, with a couple exceptions. The charcoal canister and EGR both have a line that connects to ported vacuum (if I remember correctly, it's the smaller vacuum port on the throttle body). Those two lines must stay connected to that particular port. But there's nothing stopping you from re-routing those lines out of sight. If you wanted to get fancy, you could make a "vacuum box" and hide it under the plenum or something, and run all your vacuum lines (except the two mentioned previously) to that.

Also, I relocated the MAP sensor to the firewall after installing my Trueleo intake. It does help to reduce visual clutter.

And last but not least, here are a few photos of the PCV mod I described earlier. The first photo is my entire PCV system, no kidding!



And a couple shots of it installed on the old 2.8. As you can see, I moved the PCV valve to the firewall-side valve cover, so I could run a short hose from it to the intake manifold.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 05-19-2010).]

http://www.hausofguru.com/Wiring_Harness.html

Dave

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www.hausofguru.com

I have my PCV system routed exactly the same way as Blacktree. Although I disagree that it reduces clutter, you go from having an inconspicuous elbow on the rear valve cover to having a more obvious filter.

EGR and the CSI were deleted.

The MAP sensor is now in the passenger compartment, connected with vacuum hose. I also use this hose for a mechanical manifold pressure gauge on the dash.

Custom-cut spark plug wires make it 10x easier to have a well-organized spark plug wire layout.



Aside from removing unused wires, I didn't make any effort to modify the wiring.

The charcoal canister lines could be moved a bit more out of the way, to the right of the dogbone mount I suppose, rather than directly over the valve cover.

[This message has been edited by pmbrunelle (edited 05-19-2010).]

I've taken to tucking all the plug wires under the intake (going through the openings between runners), and then putting them all onto the cap in rows. Sure, it's not 'optimal' having them laced side by side, but... sacrifices have to be made for appearances some times.

Ok, I have a good idea of what im doing. Im going to tuck the ENTIRE harness. Meaning you will never see the harness. The big round loom with the tin foil looking stuff...GONE. How you may ask? Rather than have all the wires in one loom Im going to have the entire harness in about 20 different heat shrinked "looms". I will have more of a mess at first but with the heat shrink i can tuck it in really small areas. The pcv idea is a must.

Folks:

This is pretty clean, but we are not finished, yet:












Regards,

David

[This message has been edited by MountainHiBlue87GT (edited 05-19-2010).]

Archie's clean LS7 install

Nice job David. What type headers do you have?

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87 GT Maroon 3800SC & White Formula

Dirty Harry sent me some photos of his engine to post here. If you're a 3800 lover, get a bib. Because you're about to drool on yourself.

Here is my old SBC with relocated 500 connector in the center console, tail light wiring through the double firewall, only 1 bulkhead pass through relocated down lower... etc:



My 4.3/4T60:



A 4.9 I did for a friend - relocated 500 connector under rear glass (behind the air box), low mounted Alternator, custom air intake, 500 engine harness connects to the cradle under the accessory drive, and a cover for the bulkhead pass through, etc:


:

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 05-20-2010).]

Here is alot of good info on things to clean up the 2.8:

quote [quote="Nashco"]I've done most of the mods suggested above. A quick list, off the top of my head: - Removed everything for the EGR. This includes wiring, vacuum lines, blocking off the intake, cutting the port off the Y-pipe and welding in a patch. - Stripped every last bit of conduit and tape from the wire harness and rerouted, taped, etc. to clean up the routing. Only ended up cutting and resplicing a couple of wires. - Relocated oil pressure sensor to immediately above the oil filter with a 1/8" NPT to 1/4" NPT adapter, ditching the stock relocation tube needed for the AC compressor. - Ditched the AC compressor. Everything else AC related has already been pulled. - Relocated tach filter and MAP sensor under the upper intake, spliced vacuum for FPR as necessary. - Removed throttle body coolant lines, adapter fittings at the throttle body, and cut/welded thermostat housing ports. - Removed everything for the cold start injector. This includes CSI, temp sensor, wiring, and fuel tube. - Removed everything related to the evap control. - Removed all the old metal air/vacuum tubes from the engine bay. - Removed nearly all the heatshields and all of the horrible insulation material. I did leave the heat shield that goes between the trunk and the muffler. - Shortened spark plug wires to bare minimum length without chaffing. - Re-routed wire harness and retaped/recovered the entire thing to look factory. - Relocated C203 connector to be under the battery. Chose to cut and splice the five wires that route back to the taillights rather than pulling pins or bodywork to get them out. - Removed the heat shield off the Y-pipe. - Removed the leaf catchers from the engine vents. - Removed the wiring for the rear decklid. This car didn't come with a light, so it wasn't serving a hell of a lot of purpose other than perhaps telling me that the trunk is a jar. - Stripped and repainted the coolant crossover tube and exhaust tips. The above cost me about $6 total. There's more I'd like to do if I get more time, but this works for now. The "best tip of this thread" award goes to lucky for suggesting the 7/8" freeze plug to fill the hole left by the CSI. Sure, it cost me a buck, but it looks totally factory and will definitely work better than the free block off plate I planned on making. Thanks, Bryce

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 05-20-2010).]

This thread inspired me to clean up the wiring on my 3.4 V6 a little bit. First, I relocated the temperature gauge sender to the intake manifold (where the fan switch used to be). That got the sender unit away from the hot exhaust manifold, as well as helping make the engine look cleaner. I also relocated the wiring bundle that runs along the trunk-side valve cover to the firewall-side valve cover (basically merging the two wire bundles). That moved the wiring a little further out of sight. I also re-routed the spark plug wires under the intake plenum, as Watts suggested.

I feel a little embarrassed posting this photo right after Fieroguru's excellent engine photos, but here's the result of today's work.



On a side note, all that rust on my exhaust headers is thanks to the POR-20 paint, which didn't hold up very well.

[This message has been edited by Blacktree (edited 05-21-2010).]

3800 SC Series III

Lookin good black tree. Im balls deep into finishing my engine at the moment i have not even started tucking.

This is a 4.9 with an Allante Intake that I did



Joe Sokol

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85 SE Daily driver with a 3.4 DOHC OBD II
88 Formula/GT 4.9 Allante Intake (My Baby)

That is the best looking 4.9 I've seen yet.

What is the benefit of this mod??

Is it better for the crankcase air to come from inside the engine compartment as opposed to the air intake hose? Its filtered either way...I dont imagine hot or cold air should make a difference.

Is it just for looks?

Here is my engine bay. Not done yet, but going to DIS removes the dizzy and coil, so it looks cleaner.


Just think about what it would look like with a Blue Truelo intake.