Ok so I am doing a restoration on a 1986 Pontiac Fiero and I need some friendly advice to help me along through this. I have sound mechanical knowledge and am a first year technician but I'm sure there is alot about this car that I have no idea about. I was going to post pictures as I go along but I don't see an option for it
Oh I'm far from new. Just the first time I've actually tried to use this resource. I've done what I can for the 4 cylinder but it's time for the 3800 SC series 2 engine swap. Just need to work on earning the money and locating such an engine. So some sort of pip program I have to download? I'll have a look around after I clear coat my spoiler. Anyone who can help me find this photo program you'll see these pictures faster. It's actually not bad. I'm excited to see how crazy this car ends up being
Ok so I removed the spoiler and sanded and primed it for paint. You can see it below Next I drew up some letters and then proceeded to scale them larger and transfer it onto some painters tape along the top of the spoiler Next came the black paint and voila. It turned out pretty sharp looking I also stripped and primer and painted the engine vents black as well. They turned out alright. Not the greatest but their just engine vents. When I do a whole car paint job I'll get downright OCD. This is the interior as it sits right now but I want to get the interior kit from V8 Archies that does the dash, center console and "waterfalls" behind the seats. Their widebody kit is in my plans but I want my engine to be done first. Work my way from the inside out
[This message has been edited by 86_Fiero (edited 11-29-2010).]
Well hello again everyone. It seems I've become used to how this works now. As promised I have brought new pictures. Below is the mighty Iron Duke. I've installed a set of new performance plugs, wires, air filter, MAP sensor and vacuum hoses. Side view of the car. Not much now but will be good to look back on what it used to be. I have to say I am not a fan of the square headlights. I was doing some research and found these pictures of this car with low pro headlights and angel eyes around the outside. They look amazing. As far as a kit or a walkthrough I have yet to find such. This was a photo of the box set up for the lights but I would definitely like a more detailed conversion walkthrough This is a mess. Yay for n/a ABS! LOL Anyways yeah my headlights won't operate and I know it's in the wiring because just looking I can tell Mickey Mouse was in my hood messing around with wires. I've got a mystery switch as well. I'll take more detailed pictures of it tomorrow and mention it again. The interior is fairly stock minus the custom (horrible) paint job. I've installed 2 alpine speakers behind the seats (1 for each seat) and 2 scosche speakers in the door panels above the arm rest. Then there are the pioneer speakers in the dash and a pioneer deck (asap I am swapping it out for a better deck, speakers and amp) I want new door panels one day and do this properly with my own interior color scheme. Ideas? Rear decklid with my custom hood pins almost complete. Again these are just temporary until I can afford some better locking hood pins. And last but not least a shot from the rear.. There is just something SOOO sexy about that angle
[This message has been edited by 86_Fiero (edited 11-29-2010).]
Alright I have complications. Mechanically speaking. I have a high idle and it's not the adjuster screw. I tested the IAC and it's functioning perfectly. I've checked my EGR and it's performing. Any ideas? Anyways while that sits on the back burner and brews I finished the pins today (more or less) I just have to weld them into place. If anyone wants more details on the process I can walk you through it but honestly if you have the money just buy them. Their cheap off of ebay. 50 bucks even is cheap and it gets you well crafted lockable hood pins that look great and perform their job well. So. The pins Oh and on a final note I performed a quick test on the headlight wires at the bulb and it has power so I'm going to go ahead and say that the bulbs are no good. Time to get the low pro headlight conversion going I think. Anyone know of someone who has done it or written up a walkthrough?
[This message has been edited by 86_Fiero (edited 11-29-2010).]
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04:20 PM
Khw Member
Posts: 11139 From: South Weber, UT. U.S.A. Registered: Jun 2008
Vacuum leak, I'd look into that especially if the lines have never been replaced to your knowledge. BTW, what does it say on your spoiler? I can't really make it out to well.
[This message has been edited by Khw (edited 11-25-2010).]
Yeah I've replaced a few of the old vacuum lines so far on the throttle body. Just not the ones that run along the intake and the EGR one and the MAP sensor one. I know I've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Everything points to it. I feel like I'm looking for a needle in a hay stack :S
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04:41 PM
Khw Member
Posts: 11139 From: South Weber, UT. U.S.A. Registered: Jun 2008
I was going to say check your EGR also. Usually high idle traces back to vacuum or EGR leak, usually. Vacuum line isn't that expensive either, I picked up enough to redo all of mine (4 cyl.) for less then $15.00. But then I don't live in Canada, so I have no idea what the cost would be their.
[This message has been edited by Khw (edited 11-25-2010).]
Ok. I have entered into another problem. There is a tab that attaches to the shifter cable in the rear about the transmission that has come out of it's notch. I've taken it apart and put it back in the notch, reassembled, tested the shifter and it popped out again. Suggestions? I have some pictures I will upload after school. I have computer access but I left my computer cord for my phone at home. Thanks a bunch. I'll check back in a bit for a reply
Yeah it's not plastic. It's a metal piece that is on the transmission itself. It sticks out and the bracket that goes around it has a little tab about the size of a number 2 pencil. It goes in a slot on the shaft coming out of the transmission. It was worn enough on the end and the transmission slot was worn enough that it would just slide right out of the slot. I fixed that problem though. I put it in a vice to make the part smaller and clamp into that slot tighter and then the bracket that the metal piece goes into I made smaller so the metal piece with the tab could be pinned back into place. The cable that attaches to the metal piece is the one that moves when you move the shifter from left to right. not up and down. I think that is called the select cable? Anyways I put it all back together after the squeezing and it seems to stay in that slot fine now. I'm back in class on Tuesday so I will take another photo then so you know what the hell I'm talking about. Onto another note can anyone identify these wires? I've already identified the plug as the temperature gauge sensor on the back of the iron duke to the left of the manifold. I found that while digging for info on the forum. I'm assuming the black plug is the one that hooks up to the temp. sensor but it doesn't want to mate with the sensor and the red one I haven't a clue as to where it goes. Updates on the weird idle. It was the PCV valve. the rubber housing is cracked and split. HARD to listen for a whistle when that duke is putting I tell you! Do you think the fierostore carries them as well?
[This message has been edited by 86_Fiero (edited 11-29-2010).]
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07:46 PM
2farnorth Member
Posts: 3402 From: Leonard, Tx. USA Registered: Feb 2001
The sensor is the wrong one for that position. There's supposed to be a fan switch on the back of the head. With the right one the black connerctor will plug right in. The other connector (2 wire one) is not used. It's just there. As it sits right now your fan would not turn on if the coolant temp got above 235 as it is supposed to. Be leary of driving it too much without an operating radiator fan. The sensor that's stuck into the back of the head looks like the one for the ecm temp sensor. That should be located up in the side of the thermostat tower.
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08:39 PM
2farnorth Member
Posts: 3402 From: Leonard, Tx. USA Registered: Feb 2001
Originally posted by 86_Fiero: Updates on the weird idle. It was the PCV valve. the rubber housing is cracked and split. HARD to listen for a whistle when that duke is putting I tell you! Do you think the fierostore carries them as well?
I think you might be able to get them from a run of the mill auto parts store. Take your old one in and see if they can't match it up.
p.s. Is that leaking oil I see around the top of the head?
Alright I'll do that. Yeah I'm pretty sure it's the ecm temp sensor but there is no ecm plug for it :S I'll have to do some more research. There was a diagram I ground earlier today with the iron duke top view isolating the 3 sensors that I'm talking about. I wish I could find it again. I'll dig some more in a bit. Good eye on the oil by the way. Your right and no it's not leaking from the head. The previous owner changed the oil and took it for a spin down to the corner gas station and forgot to put the cap back on and it blew oil all over the engine. That rotted the ignition wires so I had to replace those and I figured might as well replace the plugs too. I pulled them and took some brake clean and blasted around the plug holes and around the headers and stuff but it got everywhere. I would have to drop the motor and spray it down properly to get it all. Doesn't matter too much because as soon as I find a series 2 3800 SC I will be tossing the duke. Well maybe I won't toss it. Might build a mount and keep it for posterity
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09:34 PM
2farnorth Member
Posts: 3402 From: Leonard, Tx. USA Registered: Feb 2001
This is the front view of the thermostat/filler. You can see the 2 forward sensors then there is that third one in the previous pictures on the back of the thermostat housing next to the manifold
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11:25 PM
PFF
System Bot
2farnorth Member
Posts: 3402 From: Leonard, Tx. USA Registered: Feb 2001
The one on the thermostat housing is the temp sensor for the ecm. The one sticking up vertically from the head is the one for the temp guage. The one that goes into the back of the head near the exhaust manifold is the fan switch. It is just a single wire unit that grounds the fan relay when the temp hits 235.
I think if you compare the one on the T-State housing and the one you currently have on the back of the head you find they are the same type. You should be able to get a correct fan switch at most any auto parts store or you can get one from Rodney Dickman. I just hope that wiring mess up in the front compartment wasn't related to coolant fan operation.
[This message has been edited by 2farnorth (edited 11-26-2010).]
Yes you and me both. I have power to my lights but the lights won't come on when I flick the switch. I think there is a deeper problem. I'll probably just have to sit down with a diagram and a knife and cut the harness apart and trace where everything goes. Until then however I'll have to just go without lights.
OK. So I have been doing some brain storming and drawing out an exhaust system I had in mind but I would like some input. The idea I had in mind was to take my 4-1 exhaust and turn it into a 4-2 straight pipe exhaust. I was going to take the pipes and bring them (under the engine) to the back where the stock muffler is, remove said muffler and replace with 1 or 2 cherry-bombs. It is here at this point that I am having difficulty. I'm not sure what it would sound like for 2 cylinders per pipe going through a cherry-bomb and coming out the back (tip) or if I should scrap the idea of splitting the exhaust manifold and just delete the cat and replace the muffler with a cherry-bomb and then split it there for dual exhaust out the back. What do you think?
Ok so as far as the Cherry bomb idea goes I'm just cutting out the catalytic converter, installing the Cherry Bomb and then using the extra piece of pipe that is attached to the cat and cutting that off to replace the gap where I cut the stock muffler out. Should look and sounds pretty good. Trial'd the cherry bomb in place and it looks pretty darn sexy. Anyways back to the clutch issue. I figured it out. The clutch arm is broken at the transmission end of the arm. I'm putting a new edge on the broken piece and the arm and welding it back together, grinding it smooth and then welding a plate over top of the weld and welding the plate onto the arm and broken piece. I'll post pics of the completed arm. The rod is also a concern of mine. Does anyone know where I can get a new arm that leads from the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch arm? The one with the kind of ball end? I've discovered that the rod that I have is nothing but a piece of ready rod. I'll keep it for now but I would like something a bit more proper. I'm also polishing my rims. I don't have time to upload them but I promise to tonight!
[This message has been edited by 86_Fiero (edited 12-08-2010).]
So as of last post I had a broken clutch arm. It has been fixed but I haven't taken pictures of it yet. Still wondering about the rod. What does everyone else think? Suggestions? Anyways I promised pictures of the rims and I don't disappoint. This is the before and the after. Looks much better huh? Now I have just to give the inner webbing and inner rim a roughing up with a wire wheel and I will be quite satisfied.. For now. I lifted the car and got to looking around for a suitable location for the glass pack and found one. It's purrrfect! ^_^ Well I will have to just keep going and hope my efforts don't go unnoticed!
