I am in the process of changing a couple of things on my 87gt and I have the power door lock bezels, the wire harness and switches. I am after getting hold of the actual door lock solenoids/motors. is there anything else I need ? i.e any steel rods to connect to the door lock.
any advice is welcomed
jon
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09:09 AM
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System Bot
fierohoho Member
Posts: 3494 From: Corner of No and Where Registered: Apr 2001
Jon, you will need these two items from the donor door, the lock motor and I'm not sure what to call the second part but the motor hooks into it and turns the motor's up/down motion into a left/right motion.
You don't need any new rods as the second piece goes over a slight bend in the rod that goes from the lock slider to the latch mechanism.
Lock Motor.
The other thing.
I'm gonna dig through my pics and see if I have anything else that might help you.
Steve
------------------ Where will the road take you today?
Jon, you will need these two items from the donor door, the lock motor and I'm not sure what to call the second part but the motor hooks into it and turns the motor's up/down motion into a left/right motion.
Thanks for the breakdown on parts...
10 years ago I went to add power locks to my coupe and I bought the lock motors but I had no clue about the other thing or where to get it, so I gave up and bought the aftermarket lock motors. They are small enough that you can mount them in-line without needing that other piece. After 25 years the Fiero lock motors are probably worn out or in desperate need of a rebuild anyway.
10 years ago I went to add power locks to my coupe and I bought the lock motors but I had no clue about the other thing or where to get it, so I gave up and bought the aftermarket lock motors. They are small enough that you can mount them in-line without needing that other piece. After 25 years the Fiero lock motors are probably worn out or in desperate need of a rebuild anyway.
you can get replacement motors from these guy on ebay,
A big box of Band-aids. The openings in the steel door sections are like razors. (that can be remedied in short order with what is known as a deburing knife)
Here's a fancy one, but they all work the same, and are faster than a file. Ya just hook the crook of the carbide blade over the edge of the metal and pull it along, and it swivels to make it around curves. Removes any sharp edges in seconds. Work great on anything softer than carbide, tho ya have to be easy with how much pressure to apply on some "plastics".
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08:57 PM
Feb 7th, 2012
qwikgta Member
Posts: 4669 From: Virginia Beach, VA Registered: Jan 2001
if you lost the other parts and you want to go aftermarket, here is an image of what I did. Aftermarket door locks. Attached to the door with a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum strip. four holes drilled, two in the door, two in the strip. bend the attached arm to fit your need, (do two 45 deg bends, not 90). hardware comes with the kit. Run the wires, power/ground and hit the key fob. Took about an hour per side, and works like a charm
A big box of Band-aids. The openings in the steel door sections are like razors. (that can be remedied in short order with what is known as a deburing knife)
Here's a fancy one, but they all work the same, and are faster than a file. Ya just hook the crook of the carbide blade over the edge of the metal and pull it along, and it swivels to make it around curves. Removes any sharp edges in seconds. Work great on anything softer than carbide, tho ya have to be easy with how much pressure to apply on some "plastics".
Ive got one of those in my old tool box havent used since I worked at a sheet metal fabricators about 12 years ago - I also have the small countersink bit for deburring holes.
good timing... i might be swapping locks over from some donor doors soon.
my factory non power locks seem pretty stiff. makes me wonder if i have a bind or need some lubrication. anything recommended before i swap over?
------------------ 1984 Indy Fiero SE Pace Car Replica #770 "SE" Stormtrooper Edition Rescued, resuscitated and reversibly modified! (I'm so not done yet!) Poly all round & Black Drag DR-34s Frt: 225/45 on 18x8 (47 offset w/ 8-9mm spacer) 1.5 coils cut off 1984 WS6 springs Rear: 265/35 on 18x8.5 (45 offset) Coil-overs w/ 10 inch 300lb springs & 7 inch sleeve
Everything is the previous owners fault!
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12:52 PM
Feb 8th, 2012
fierohoho Member
Posts: 3494 From: Corner of No and Where Registered: Apr 2001
The biggest thing I've noticed when getting power locks to work is how gummed up with dirt the latch mechanism gets.
I recommend removing it and giving it a real good soak in a degreaser or some sort.
I've soaked and cleaned mine using lacquer thinner and worked all the moving parts to get those areas free of dirt.
When done just oil it up and put it back.
Also a little cleaning of the lock rod that runs from the slider by the door handle to the latch mechanism where the rod runs through the plastic clip, a little oil there too.
In qwikgta's last pic you can see the clip in the upper right corner that the rod is running through.
Steve
[This message has been edited by fierohoho (edited 02-08-2012).]
The biggest thing I've noticed when getting power locks to work is how gummed up with dirt the latch mechanism gets.
I recommend removing it and giving it a real good soak in a degreaser or some sort.
I've soaked and cleaned mine using lacquer thinner and worked all the moving parts to get those areas free of dirt.
When done just oil it up and put it back.
Also a little cleaning of the lock rod that runs from the slider by the door handle to the latch mechanism where the rod runs through the plastic clip, a little oil there too.
In qwikgta's last pic you can see the clip in the upper right corner that the rod is running through.
Steve
Excellent point Steve. No doubt the latches are liverally greased at the factory. Grease is simply an emulsion of oil and wax. Once the oil evaporates and washes away over time, what is left is a sticky, waxy buildup. Talk about gumming up the works!! there is only one known solvent for wax (I forget what it is but you can google it) short of heating the wax to melt it. I tried the recommen ded solvent on some wax once and it didn't do much. A hot vapor degreaser should work really well.
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