Here are the pics of the 86' GT that I swapped for my Zero Turn mower. First the Mower:
Now the 86' GT w/ 92k miles: This is how I got it. Now with my other wheels on it. Makes it look ten times better. The GT wheels will go on my Sport in the garage
Here is the GT sitting with my G35 at the shop
The car has it's little issues but it's in great shape for a 86'. I drove it to work today.
Both headlight motors are shot The Check Engine light comes on after driving for 10 minutes. The Oil gauge pegs unless you are idling and then is jumps around It has a small exhaust leak I haven't found yet. AND it has a vacuum leak somewhere cause, it idles at 1400 rpm's and when idling it floats up and down. It just needs a little loving.
I have had a High idle since I got the car. About 1400 rpms. Someone mentioned that my IAC should be adjusted to a inch and a 1/8". It was at around a inch. So I wiggled it out to another 1/8". I re-installed it and now my idle is at 2000rpms. Also when I put it in gear it cuts off. The idle screw is all the way out and not affecting the idle. I guess I need to push the IAC back in, but I would like to figure out why it's idled up so far and wants to cut off when I put it into gear.
On another note, I put the new Kick down cable on my transmission but seem to be missing the clip that connects it to the Throttle body. Don't know what it looks like but I know the cable has a lead ball on the end and no way to connect to the linkage.
AND one more thing. I replaced my relay for the cooling fan and that didn't change anything. I then grounded the coolant switch and both fans came on, so I replace the coolant switch BUT the A/C being on still doesn't turn on the fans. So now I am sure it will click on when it hits the 235 degrees as it should but I would like to figure out why the A/C won't turn on the fan. It runs so much cooler when the fans on high.
Well I finally got to work on the GT. I pulled the IAC out and measured it. It was set to a 1", so I wiggled it out to just over a 1 1/8", the idle settled a little but still around 1400 rpms. I tried exactly 1 1/8", but it didn't change the idle enough so I pulled it out further.
I checked the timing. I went to loosen the clamp bolt and found it was already REALLY loose. So I checked it and found it was about 10 degree or more off. I set the timing to 10Degrees and it is running smoother and not skipping like it was and it seems to be running over all better.
I also checked the TCC on the tranny since the car would stall when going into gear. I pulled off the plug and found the plug was metled on one corner but not enough to affect it so I started it up and it still stalled. I replugged it back in and then it stopped stalling and now when driving I can tell it is locking the torque converter. So I guess I had a bad connection on that TCC plug.
I still have a high idle but it shifts into gear without stalling and I have the Torque converter locking now so I am a little lower rpm when cruising. The car runs better but still not perfect until the idle problem goes down.
The Check engine still comes on after driving for about 10 minutes. I will have to check the codes while the car is running.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
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07:34 AM
02greens10 Member
Posts: 813 From: Ashland, Ohio Registered: Feb 2008
Sounds like the egr tube because the engine light takes a little time to come on from it. I would try digging in that direction, but it sounds like you got a great start.
So yesterday I figured out that even though I replaced the Fan switch with a new one it still doesn't come on at 235. I ended up just grounding the plug to the car and leaving it on to run around 195. I would guess it needs a new pigtail BUT the old one looks perfectly fine. Once I ground it, it works so i know the rest of the circuit is good.
Took the Interior apart and cut down the shifter. Looks great although I don't have a pic right now. It was a pretty easy mod. I also figured that the previous owner was a smoker when i found ashes all in the cracks of the console and a Butt under the shifter plate. I then wiped all the dash down with Armor-all and blacked my speaker vents to look new. Really helps liven up the interior when it's clean and black instead of purple. :-)
also got under the car for the first time. It doesn't look too bad at all. Has a SLOW leak out of the front seal. Drips just a little. I received a new to me A/C compressor and was looking to install it and find that the bracket has been Cut and Broken off. It has the front one bolt hole but the rear is completely broken off and there is a cut mark from a grinder on it. Also the A/C lines are totally gone. So I'm gonna need a Bracket and the A/C lines to put that back together.
I found these two plugs under the car, I assume they are both for the A/C compressor although one looks like a Fan switch pig tail.
And Last I found this on the back firewall to the trunk beside the coffee can. It has two vacuum lines missing from it. Don't know what it does but the electrical plug is connected but not vacuum lines. What is it???
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 05-24-2011).]
Here is the new pics of my Speaker Vents re-colored black. and my new cut down shifter. I think I removed 2" from the stalk. I love the new lower profile look. Now I have to make a Aluminum plate to cover where the boot went. The boot won't work there anymore because it's too bulky. I have some aluminum and will make a single slotted plated for the stalk to slide through
AS you may be able to tell I also cut off about 3/4" of the bottom of the shifter to fit properly. I plan to get a Corvette shift knob to give it more of a lower profile.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 05-25-2011).]
Well I got a knew Temperature sending unit for the ECM yesterday in the mail. I pulled the old one out and quickly realized why the car was running so rich. It really needed to be replaced. I would stand to say it's original.
The bottom was nasty. Looked like the dirty filter on a spent cigarette.
I replaced the Oil Pressure Sending Unit in the GT. It wasn't a new one but was by far in better shape and the guy swears up and down it's a good one but it is reading crazy. One second it will be zero, the next it's 40psi, the next it's 80 psi, the next it's over 80psi and the need jumps like it's walking on the sun.
The guy seems to think I did something wrong installing it. I simply unscrewed the old and screw in the newer one with a 14mm or 15mm wrench on the fitting of the sensor. I didn't use teflon tape so that it would ground properly. It's not leaking.
Alright, I have collected the A/C Compressor, and the mounts for it that I was missing. I have the slider mount still on the car from whom ever before me broke the aluminum bracket off.
Here I mounted the Rear bracket onto my Reman'd Compressor and as you can see it doesn't quite line up for my aluminum mount to support the rear end of the compressor.
I wasn't about to give up there. I looked around in my bolt bins and found a piece of steel that I bent and vised till it fit perfectly to give the rear of the compressor support and not look to rigged. To me it almost look factory. :-) I don't know why it didn't line up originally, either there are multiple brackets made for the GT's (this one is from a 87' and mine is a 86') or the Reman'd compressor is a little different than factory. Either way it's fixed.
So now after looking at this pic and looking at the Haines Manual that I am in need of a High Pressure switch. I am wondering if that's a must or can I run without it. The name is kinda self evident but when would the pressure get too high to need to be cut off? Right now as you can see in the pics above I have both the holes in the back of the compressor closed off with caps. Also still wonder what the other plug snaps onto. Anyone got an idea?
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 06-04-2011).]
I got my A/C compressor, lines, and brackets all installed. Now I have to get the system vacuumed out and filled with 134a. ------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 06-10-2011).]
Still not sure where to plug the small plug here to. It looks like I should have something screwed into the end of the High Pressure Relief spot in the center of the rear of the compressor, but I'm not sure. ------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 06-10-2011).]
Well last night I drove about 5 miles up to Home Depot and bought some black spray paint. While I was driving the car surged a little but for the most part it drove pretty well. I got back out to the car from inside HD and the car wouldn't start. It would spin over and every once and a while would spark and try to start but never quite get it. We checked the spark and it has spark. I checked the fuel rail and it had just a little bit of gas but mostly air from the purge valve on the fuel rail. It seems that the fuel pump isn't working.
I switched the relays around. I had an extra in the trunk that was known to be good and I switched all 3 of them around to see if it changed things, nothing. I am almost certain it's the fuel pump.
last week it didn't want to start or would studder a little on start up. Yesterday was it's final day. Luckily I have already order the fuel pump and have it sitting waiting on me to drop the tank. Now I just have to get the Fiero the 5 miles home to change the pump out. I figure I would rather change the pump out and have that out of the way anyway. Since I got the car I had wondered about that pump. The car has 92k miles on it but I am certain the pump has been changed at one point cause the wiring wasn't stuck back through the firewall hole, it was strung around it, there are new clamps on all the hoses and I have a FADED receipt for a new pump without a date on it. So it's newer than the car but who knows if it has the correct tubing on it or not. The tube in the tank could be mush like my Sport was. I kinda have a feeling it is.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
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06:42 AM
GT86FASTBACK Member
Posts: 757 From: Monroeville, PA Registered: Jul 2009
Lol I have the same mower you had but its a z42 not z48 I paid $600 for the mower And I got a 86 fiero gt only thing wrong is the clear coat and bumper I paid $800 for it
Lol I have the same mower you had but its a z42 not z48 I paid $600 for the mower And I got a 86 fiero gt only thing wrong is the clear coat and bumper I paid $800 for it
But good deal What was wrong with the mower?
The hydraulic pump went bad. It wouldn't pull itself. Everything else was in good shape. I paid $1000 for it about 4 years ago but it needed a lot. It had been rigged up in a lot of ways. I had to fix it up, but then the hydraulics went bad last season.
Cleaned off the engine the other day from below. I put the rear of the car up on ramps and sprayed it with Degreaser then pressure washed it. Then I started her up and started to look for my exhaust leak. I am missing a bolt in the front manifold. I believe it's broke, BUT it's not leaking there. I used my hand and followed the exhaust around and found that I have a HUGE leak on the rear manifold, the one that I CAN get to. Turns out the leak is right at the factory Clamped union. Weird location for it to be leaking. It definitely doesn't look like it's ever been taken apart there. It looks all stock. BUT I guess it has if it's leaking at the joint.
The problem is, getting the bolts loose. I have PB Blasted them, but I am SO afraid I will break the bolt. It only needs to be re-set and tightened down again and I can get rid of that bad sound.
I will keep spraying the bolts and then try to loosen them. Fingers Crossed.
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 06-14-2011).]
It's a High Pressure Cut out switch :switch was a normally-closed one pin device that provided a ground by contact with the compressor body to complete the the A/C clutch circuit. That switch is now obsolete, replaced by a two-pin switch similar to the V5 HPCO switch shown below. This substitution requires installation of a new connector (included with the switch). The second wire is connected to ground.
Well the car left me stranded the other day.... I checked the relays(checked with 5 different ones), I checked the fuse and all were good. So I replaced the Fuel pump. The old fuel pump ended up being good, but I replaced it anyways.
So after all that the car still wouldn't run unless I hotwired the FP on the diagnostic terminal in the console.
So I knew the pump worked and was connected properly. So I used a Wiring diagram I found and crossed the Org/blk wire to the tan wire and it worked at the relay. So I realized there was no signal from the ECM to tell the relay to come on. My wiring Diagram said that the power also ran through the Oil Pressure sensor so I checked the oil level and it was a quart low. I filled it up and it started immediately.
Ok... It's running. Yea, BUT I have found that the fan runs all the time now AND the car is VERY slow to start after sitting. Feels like the fuel pressure regulator is bleeding down after sitting. On the flip side, once it's started you can turn the car off and restart it just fine. It's only after it sits for over a hour or more.
It's been said that the Oil Pressure sensor power is a secondary power source for the fuel pump and if it's running on that source then somethings wrong. Furthermore, it's been said that the Oil Pressure source is a lower power source than the primary and that would make sense why it's slow to start.
I think the ECM has a issue. I am wondering if me grounding the green and white wire on the ECM to switch the fan on and off, might have put extra strain on the EMC and burnt or broke the primary fuel pump circuit.
It's a bad pic but I wet sanded the center console cover from a botched up paint job and repainted with the body color and flat black around the switches with gloss black switches. A lot of wet sanding to get all this cleaned up. Here's a pics of when I screwed it up.
Here's the new one
I like it MUCH better.
------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
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10:46 AM
ParaStatic Member
Posts: 181 From: Pelican Lake, WI Registered: Feb 2007
Curious of how you are going to do the Aluminum plate around the shifter shaft. Something I might be interested in doing later on myself. Guessing grind off the tabs that hold the boot, and use double stick tape to hold the aluminum face down?
Curious of how you are going to do the Aluminum plate around the shifter shaft. Something I might be interested in doing later on myself. Guessing grind off the tabs that hold the boot, and use double stick tape to hold the aluminum face down?
I have a old road sign made from Aluminum. I'll cut it out of it and make it to look like this. This isn't mine but I found it on Google. Essentially using the stock skeleton screw placement.
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 06-28-2011).]
Well I read about it and I think my Fuel Pressure Regulator is bad. The fuel pressure is leaking down and it is eating gas as I drive. Gonna check the fuel pressure but from what I have read on here the symptoms are all there.
Fuel pressure leaks down over time Hard original Start
Finally got to take my Driverside headlight motor apart. It's not pretty but expected. The shaft was rusted through and the casing is a little worn out. I have to get another shaft but I MIGHT be able to fix the case with JB weld. But that is to be determined. Yout tube video with my Country accent in it. LOL http://youtu.be/VOfpt_uyOZg
Both of the brushes fell off, I'm gonna try to soldier them back on. Maybe use some new brushes from another Electric motor I have if possible. ------------------ 86 Fiero 2M4 Silver, and 86 GT
[This message has been edited by jwrape (edited 07-06-2011).]
