Hello everyone!

I am the very proud owner of a 1986 GT 4spd. It is rather low miles, @ 71,xxx. I personally put 3,000 of those on myself this past summer. Insanely reliable 26 year old domestic car. Most reliable GM product I've ever owned. Unfortunately, she sat in a field, outside for @ 6 years before I got her, so there is a fair amount of sun damage to the window seals, paint, and a P/O got enthusiastic with the battery side rear hatch, cracking the rear window, ect.

The original 2.8L was overhauled, bored, and re-conditioned, before she she was parked. From the receipts(I have all of them, from new), I am guessing for rod bearing failure. She has been graced with coated headers and Y-pipe, a Melling HV oil pump, aftermarket cam(whatever stage II means, I HATE that terminology), and some other various hot rod goodies. Fairly quick car at the bottom, esp for a 2.8L. Reaches 50MPH in @ 4 seconds. Any stoplight fun is generally over before I grab second. Not bad at all, considering the purchase price, and all she basically needed was brakes, 2 calipers and clutch, which I did myself.

Crowning moment: While passing though the local cruise strip, this summer, I silenced the background chatter of a few hundred people with a few blips of the throttle at a stoplight . Nothing but crickets. Might as well be driving a Veyron, as often as people want to enthusiastically show me how slow their car is. But you guys all know that. Not bad for a low-buck ratrod!!

So, the plan is to preserve the original 2.8L, and replace it with a 3400. Eventually, I wish to build a 3400 specifically for boost, and use a M90 S/C. My reasoning is: I am NOT interested in turbo/s(S/C will be MUCH simpler and cheaper. Plz, no flaming here), or a 3800(balance shafts? No designed in band-aids/archaic 60's motor, TY). The 3400's are CHEAP and PLENTIFUL. No weird adapters, modding the engine compartment, romanticizing an even harder to maintain V8, ect. HUGE fan of K*I*S*S* for fabrication and reliability.

Other plans are widebody mods, completely one-off custom, chopped, in the flavor of CarLow's, Rambunkshush(sp?) and others. Will still look VERY much like a Fiero, just much more exotic. Have been studying other's body mods, and of course supercar styling. Proportion, balance, and "flow" of the "swoop" is often lost, IMHO. But a handful pull it off perfectly.

Anyways, my biggest questions pertain to the ECU. I am wondering what the best plan of attack would be, and the reasoning behind them. I am TEMPTED to use the original ECU and distributor system, perhaps with a piggyback? Or is it too archaic to mess with? Or, are there ECU's (Stick Grand Am GT maybe, OBDII?) that won't get confused with a stick? Megasquirt? I have read many threads, and am a member of FTV6, GM*60, ect. So still gleaning info. Hard to do though, sifting through informative threads that are clogged with inexperienced/opinionated hearsay and Internet nonsense.

Thanks in advance, and very glad to be here. So much to learn and appreciate!

BTW: I live in Mansfield, Ohio. If you saw the roughish, stock appearing black GT running around, that's me!

[This message has been edited by agentc73 (edited 01-29-2013).]

Welcome to the forum !

Look into/research the 7730 ECM

welcome to the madness and enjoy
jon

You want to have fun at intersections? when you do the exhaust put a electric exhaust cut out in it. Clark Kent or Supperman at the flick of a switch. ( also the roller camed chevy V8 in front of it doesn't hurt)

quote Originally posted by Mike Gonzalez: Look into/research the 7730 ECM

May also the 1227165 that I was working on in 2011.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119333.html

Now that I have another V6 car to work with, I can get moving on this again as well as the trip computer.

"or a 3800(balance shafts? No designed in band-aids/archaic 60's motor"

,You are kidding, right? The most popular install for a reason, one being power and capability of way more power, without blowing up. Another is ease of overall job, and importantly, considered one of the 10 best engines ever built. And 1/4 million miles is common, not the exception. Every engine GM has produced since has had life shortening problems, of various sorts. I'll go with my "archaic".

[This message has been edited by weaselbeak (edited 01-29-2013).]

quote Originally posted by weaselbeak: "or a 3800(balance shafts? No designed in band-aids/archaic 60's motor" You are kidding, right? The most popular install for a reason, one being power and capability of way more power, without blowing up. Another is ease of overall job, and importantly, considered one of the 10 best engines ever built. And 1/4 million miles is common, not the exception. Every engine GM has produced since has had life shortening problems, of various sorts. I'll go with my "archaic".

I have re-written a reply several times, but it's not worth negativity. The current 60*V6 in the Camaro is making how much more power than the current 3800 S/C? Perhaps 323 bhp, N/A?

I am VERY HAPPY that that works for YOU, and that is what YOU want in your car. CONGRATS. But this thread isn't about what YOU want in YOUR car, or how YOU want to spend YOUR money. It's about what ECU to install in MINE, and WHY.

Please, if ya don't like what you read, or disagree with my logic or opinions, don't express thread clogging opinions or irrelevant facts here. Read another thread. Go learn something. I'm not at this forum for pissing matches/flaming/trolling about how much a better/smarter man you are than others. I am open to CONSTRUCTIVE logic, proven, scientific/real world facts, knowledge, experience, and input. Even if I am wrong, I love to LEARN. Not here for ppl to tell me how much better their choices for their money and car are than mine.

I would share my mechanical/engineering/design/fabrication credentials, but this isn't the time, and I've indulged/entertained enough. Forthcoming at a later date.

So from what I am gathering, these are my best choices for a stock, then modded, then boosted, 3400?
7165 7730 7727
Ease of mods/future programming, price, availability? Simplicity? Tunability?

REAL, experienced 'Puter/ECU experts, PLEASE chime in. YOUR opinions and input matter.

quote Originally posted by agentc73: So from what I am gathering, these are my best choices for a stock, then modded, then boosted, 3400? 7165 7730 7727 Ease of mods/future programming, price, availability? Simplicity? Tunability? REAL, experienced 'Puter/ECU experts, PLEASE chime in. YOUR opinions and input matter.

First off, sounds like you have some goals that are going to be fun and attainable. Second, the 7727 is the 7730 in a weather tight case, so I will refer to both as the 7730. With that, both the 7165 and 7730 are great computers and are readily available. The 7730 is usually my first choice when I am working on EFI conversions. It has been hacked the most compared to other ecu/pcms out there. There is usually a code that will fit your specific needs.

Now, the 7165 is a different animal. The ecu was used in the S-10 trucks until the 2.5 duke was dropped. The stock codes used in this ecu will not be the best choice with what you have in mind. That is where the modified 12P code from the 1227808 ecu comes in. The 808 and the 7165 are essentially the same ecu, just that the 808 does not have the high-speed communications that the 7165 has. Oh, and the 808 comes from the southern hemisphere (Australia).

The code I am referring to is labeled OSE12P V111. I have used it in several v6 and v8 applications, although only one in a Fiero application. There is another that is using this setup on a 3500 V6 with DIS system. So the code is able to control both distributor and DIS-tributorless ignition.

This code is also designed to work with a 1, 2, or 3 BAR map sensor. Setting it up to work in a boosted application is a snap. Scalability with this setup is a plus, just keep in mind that changing from setting to another is going to take some tuning. One caveat though, this code does NOT control a boost solenoid. If you want boost pressure control, you will have to look elsewhere. Seeing that you are going with a supercharger, this should not be a problem.

Now, the metal case of the 7165 and the stock V6 comp are similar enough that there is no need to modify the carrier, the 7165 fits like it was made to go there. Even the same connectors are used and most of the leads are interchangeable. For a stock wiring harness, there are about 4-6 wires that will need to be re-pinned or spliced, the rest stay where they are. You will loose control of the EGR, but there is a way to get that back somewhat in the code.

The best part of the modified 7165 is that it is turned into a FLASH ecu, like the OBD2 systems, just without the OBD2. This allows tuning on the fly as well as code updates all by means of the aldl port and appropriate software, most of which are free or cost at most $35 if I remember correctly. To gain this ability, the ecu will need an NVRAM adapter board and a slight modification to the ECU itself. With the NVRAM installed and the appropriate settings enabled, this code has the ability to "learn" the fueling that the engine needs. With a wideband O2 sensor, this works fairly quickly. The learn function also works with a narrowband sensor as well, it just take a wile longer and does not have as much leeway for a/f ratios.

As you can tell, I am partial to the 7165 swap. To each their own.

Keep tuning my friends.

Have you looked into this thread yet? It might prove useful. Good luck and welcome to the forum (although I'm wondering if you're a lurker or returning member).

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum1/HTML/062728.html

THANKS Cruiser! This kind response is what I was looking for!

I believe my goals are rather reasonable. FIRST a stock 3400 swap, then goodies, then boost. A stockpile of motors so minimum down time with spare guinea pigs. I am looking for 300-350HP, @ < 2bar(12-14psi MAX) boost, in an engine that will be built FOR boost, with washer fluid injection. I'm looking for perhaps low 12 seconds in the 1/4 like any other supercar. Not TOO insane, right?

Re-pinning a connector isn't a problem. I live in rural-ish Ohio, so currently EGR delete is planned. I haven't decided on DIS or distributor. There are advantages to both. Any thought here would be welcome as well. Please, anyone familiar with boosting a N/A motor, or 60* gurus, chime in!!

Questions:
If I am reading your reply correctly it sounds like you are recommending the 7165 with the OSE12P V111 for my goals?
I was planning on having a reputable ecu guru to reflash the ECU, so any stock 7165 codes shouldn't be an issue, no matter the donor? Tuning on the fly would be nice. I would like to be able to change injector cycle, timing, ect. on the fly. But, not completely necessary. What is the alternative? What, if any, advantages might there be to the 7730?

I apologize if I am asking redundant questions, but there is so much to learn. Your generous response was a bit confusing.

mptighe, I have been lurking without signing up for almost a year, doing my homework/research.

The DOHC is a kewl motor. I admire it almost as much as a first gen SHO motor that it was built in response to. But I wouldn't own one. WAAAY too complicated/fussy/expensive to maintain/rarish for me. Those things were notoriously hated by most pro GM techs. Let alone setting one in a Fiero Bay. No, Ty. A 3400, or newer, N/A, basic hotrod bits, can make that kind of power, with HALF the parts to break, and no rare/hard to find parts. Been done at FTV6. Like I said, my rather mild GT 2.8L 4spd already goes 0-50 in @ 4 sec. I have a Sheriff that will vouch for that. That's quick already, and definitely <200HP.

Boost is the equalizer. Both the M90 blower AND the 60*V6 can be found in surplus anywhere, for UBER cheap. AND will maintain the Ford S/C bypass for part-throttle "economy".

I have been meditating on ALL the common Fiero swaps for almost year. Studying the bonuses and negatives for a year. Being realistic and honest with myself above all. My observations from my "lurking(that sounds so...dirty )" are this, and JUST MY OPINION.
Disclaimer: Try to understand what I'm saying, and WHY. Or don't. Your car, your time, your $$$, your choice.
It seems some get romantic about engines that were TURDS when first designed(3 GM designs in particular), let alone after being neglected by the average PO for 15-20 years. Then, they cram them into a tiny engine bay. MANY seem to enjoy making things too complicated, expensive, unreliable, unserviceable, and many people get in way over their heads and skill level. I have seen it in the Fiero community time and time again. I don't get a lot of what people do sometimes, but whatev. What others do to have, or consider to be fun, is all them. All I am saying is many could do with a bit more HONESTY with themselves, skill and $$$ wise.

Isn't the forward bank of plugs hard enough to do with a 2.8L? When is the last time YOU did YOUR forward plugs?

I like the LT5. LOVE it. Respect it. But in no way I can afford to buy/own/maintain one properly. Ain't gunna lie to myself.

Plentiful. Simple. Cheap. Powerful. RELIABLE. THAT equation=bada$$ in my book.

BTW, EVERY Hottie wanting to take a ride in my "cute little black sports car" could care less what motor is in it.

[This message has been edited by agentc73 (edited 01-31-2013).]

quote Originally posted by agentc73: I have re-written a reply several times, but it's not worth negativity. The current 60*V6 in the Camaro is making how much more power than the current 3800 S/C? Perhaps 323 bhp, N/A? I am VERY HAPPY that that works for YOU, and that is what YOU want in your car. CONGRATS. But this thread isn't about what YOU want in YOUR car, or how YOU want to spend YOUR money. It's about what ECU to install in MINE, and WHY. Please, if ya don't like what you read, or disagree with my logic or opinions, don't express thread clogging opinions or irrelevant facts here. Read another thread. Go learn something. I'm not at this forum for pissing matches/flaming/trolling about how much a better/smarter man you are than others. I am open to CONSTRUCTIVE logic, proven, scientific/real world facts, knowledge, experience, and input. Even if I am wrong, I love to LEARN. Not here for ppl to tell me how much better their choices for their money and car are than mine. I would share my mechanical/engineering/design/fabrication credentials, but this isn't the time, and I've indulged/entertained enough. Forthcoming at a later date. So from what I am gathering, these are my best choices for a stock, then modded, then boosted, 3400? 7165 7730 7727 Ease of mods/future programming, price, availability? Simplicity? Tunability? REAL, experienced 'Puter/ECU experts, PLEASE chime in. YOUR opinions and input matter.

I only corrected your negative comments on the venerable 3800. Let me know when your 300+ HP N/A Camaros start hitting 200K without issues. From what I've seen these last several years, don't hold your breath. And I am a diehard GM fan who adores the new Camaro and it's power. I am not knocking your engine choice. just taking issue with your denigration of the superb 3800.

quote Originally posted by weaselbeak: I only corrected your negative comments on the venerable 3800. Let me know when your 300+ HP N/A Camaros start hitting 200K without issues. From what I've seen these last several years, don't hold your breath. And I am a diehard GM fan who adores the new Camaro and it's power. I am not knocking your engine choice. just taking issue with your denigration of the superb 3800.

You didn't correct anything. I stated facts. They aren't my cameros. I am not a fan, can't really stand GM, or the fact execs and unions killed them, so that they stole our taxpayer money to sell out/move to China. Glad you like the 3800, congrats. My thread, my opinions. I didn't design the 3800 and it's flaws. Being snippy about something as IRRELEVANT as MY opinion on MY thread about the 3800 with such eloquence makes me think you a teenage boy with too much time on his hands, educating himself on the internet, and not near enough time actually getting them dirty. From your rating bar, seems you can't control yourself, weasel. Please take your issues and desire to be a self important troll elsewhere.
If you want to argue FURTHER the validity of my opinions and mechanical skillset, here is the F-15E that I was assigned to as a CREW CHIEF in the 335thFS!!

[This message has been edited by agentc73 (edited 01-31-2013).]

quote Originally posted by agentc73: THANKS Cruiser! This kind response is what I was looking for! I believe my goals are rather reasonable. FIRST a stock 3400 swap, then goodies, then boost. A stockpile of motors so minimum down time with spare guinea pigs. I am looking for 300-350HP, @ < 2bar(12-14psi MAX) boost, in an engine that will be built FOR boost, with washer fluid injection. I'm looking for perhaps low 12 seconds in the 1/4 like any other supercar. Not TOO insane, right? Re-pinning a connector isn't a problem. I live in rural-ish Ohio, so currently EGR delete is planned. I haven't decided on DIS or distributor. There are advantages to both. Any thought here would be welcome as well. Please, anyone familiar with boosting a N/A motor, or 60* gurus, chime in!! Questions: If I am reading your reply correctly it sounds like you are recommending the 7165 with the OSE12P V111 for my goals? I was planning on having a reputable ecu guru to reflash the ECU, so any stock 7165 codes shouldn't be an issue, no matter the donor? Tuning on the fly would be nice. I would like to be able to change injector cycle, timing, ect. on the fly. But, not completely necessary. What is the alternative? What, if any, advantages might there be to the 7730? I apologize if I am asking redundant questions, but there is so much to learn. Your generous response was a bit confusing. mptighe, I have been lurking without signing up for almost a year, doing my homework/research. The DOHC is a kewl motor. I admire it almost as much as a first gen SHO motor that it was built in response to. But I wouldn't own one. WAAAY too complicated/fussy/expensive to maintain/rarish for me. Those things were notoriously hated by most pro GM techs. Let alone setting one in a Fiero Bay. No, Ty. A 3400, or newer, N/A, basic hotrod bits, can make that kind of power, with HALF the parts to break, and no rare/hard to find parts. Been done at FTV6. Like I said, my rather mild GT 2.8L 4spd already goes 0-50 in @ 4 sec. I have a Sheriff that will vouch for that. That's quick already, and definitely <200HP. Boost is the equalizer. Both the M90 blower AND the 60*V6 can be found in surplus anywhere, for UBER cheap. AND will maintain the Ford S/C bypass for part-throttle "economy". I have been meditating on ALL the common Fiero swaps for almost year. Studying the bonuses and negatives for a year. Being realistic and honest with myself above all. My observations from my "lurking(that sounds so...dirty )" are this, and JUST MY OPINION. Disclaimer: Try to understand what I'm saying, and WHY. Or don't. Your car, your time, your $$$, your choice. It seems some get romantic about engines that were TURDS when first designed(3 GM designs in particular), let alone after being neglected by the average PO for 15-20 years. Then, they cram them into a tiny engine bay. MANY seem to enjoy making things too complicated, expensive, unreliable, unserviceable, and many people get in way over their heads and skill level. I have seen it in the Fiero community time and time again. I don't get a lot of what people do sometimes, but whatev. What others do to have, or consider to be fun, is all them. All I am saying is many could do with a bit more HONESTY with themselves, skill and $$$ wise. Isn't the forward bank of plugs hard enough to do with a 2.8L? When is the last time YOU did YOUR forward plugs? I like the LT5. LOVE it. Respect it. But in no way I can afford to buy/own/maintain one properly. Ain't gunna lie to myself. Plentiful. Simple. Cheap. Powerful. RELIABLE. THAT equation=bada$$ in my book. BTW, EVERY Hottie wanting to take a ride in my "cute little black sports car" could care less what motor is in it.

+1 we all have our wants and desires, but what can we afford and what can we maintain. If you can afford it and either maintain it yourself or pay to maintain it good for you. I've seen alot of peoples prized long time project cars go up lately.

quote Originally posted by Phirewire: +1 we all have our wants and desires, but what can we afford and what can we maintain. If you can afford it and either maintain it yourself or pay to maintain it good for you. I've seen alot of peoples prized long time project cars go up lately.

Well said Phire. You understood my point perfectly. I wish only success and good times for every1 of my fellow Fiero owners!

quote Originally posted by agentc73: THANKS Cruiser! This kind response is what I was looking for! I believe my goals are rather reasonable. FIRST a stock 3400 swap, then goodies, then boost. A stockpile of motors so minimum down time with spare guinea pigs. I am looking for 300-350HP, @ < 2bar(12-14psi MAX) boost, in an engine that will be built FOR boost, with washer fluid injection. I'm looking for perhaps low 12 seconds in the 1/4 like any other supercar. Not TOO insane, right? Re-pinning a connector isn't a problem. I live in rural-ish Ohio, so currently EGR delete is planned. I haven't decided on DIS or distributor. There are advantages to both. Any thought here would be welcome as well. Please, anyone familiar with boosting a N/A motor, or 60* gurus, chime in!! Questions: If I am reading your reply correctly it sounds like you are recommending the 7165 with the OSE12P V111 for my goals? I was planning on having a reputable ecu guru to reflash the ECU, so any stock 7165 codes shouldn't be an issue, no matter the donor? Tuning on the fly would be nice. I would like to be able to change injector cycle, timing, ect. on the fly. But, not completely necessary. What is the alternative? What, if any, advantages might there be to the 7730? I apologize if I am asking redundant questions, but there is so much to learn. Your generous response was a bit confusing.

Sounds to me that you are going to have to make another boosted 3400 setup for me while you are at it.

Considering that you are going to go with boost in the near future, as well as I believe that you are going to use the stock 3400 intake, I would go DIS. On reason is that getting away from the distributor on the top of the engine clears up significant space for other parts to go. The 3400 intake will not clear the distributor anyway, unless it is clocked 180° to face the passenger side. Timing accuracy will be significantly increased due to no mechanical wear as would be in the distributor being driven from the crankshaft through all the gears and chains. Ignition crossfire is eliminated, as long as the rest of the ignition components (wires) are good. The DIS system also delivers a hotter spark over a larger RPM range. Some have swapped to DIS and have reported better driveabilty and the engine has more pull in the upper range compared to the distributor.

Any 1227165 (16198259) will do regardless of the donor. I would recommend that you get the memcal from a 1227730/7727 out of a 2.8/3.1 car so the limp-home function works. Otherwise, the actual memcal in the ecu is replaced with a NVRAM module to allow the flashing and real-time tuning. I can get the nvram for you and if you send me the ecu, I will modify it as needed. I already have a tune for the stock 2.8 that will get us started. All that you would need would be an ALDL to usb adapter and a cuple software packages (Tunerpro RT is the main one), no other hardware is needed. Tuning is through the aldl port so the center console does not nee to be removed one the hard has been done.

P.M. Sent
Call in the morning as I work in the afternoon, lest for Tuesday and Wednesday, all day is good.

[This message has been edited by chetw77cruiser (edited 02-01-2013).]

quote Originally posted by chetw77cruiser: Sounds to me that you are going to have to make another boosted 3400 setup for me while you are at it. Considering that you are going to go with boost in the near future, as well as I believe that you are going to use the stock 3400 intake, I would go DIS. On reason is that getting away from the distributor on the top of the engine clears up significant space for other parts to go. The 3400 intake will not clear the distributor anyway, unless it is clocked 180° to face the passenger side. Timing accuracy will be significantly increased due to no mechanical wear as would be in the distributor being driven from the crankshaft through all the gears and chains. Ignition crossfire is eliminated, as long as the rest of the ignition components (wires) are good. The DIS system also delivers a hotter spark over a larger RPM range. Some have swapped to DIS and have reported better driveabilty and the engine has more pull in the upper range compared to the distributor. Any 1227165 (16198259) will do regardless of the donor. I would recommend that you get the memcal from a 1227730/7727 out of a 2.8/3.1 car so the limp-home function works. Otherwise, the actual memcal in the ecu is replaced with a NVRAM module to allow the flashing and real-time tuning. I can get the nvram for you and if you send me the ecu, I will modify it as needed. I already have a tune for the stock 2.8 that will get us started. All that you would need would be an ALDL to usb adapter and a cuple software packages (Tunerpro RT is the main one), no other hardware is needed. Tuning is through the aldl port so the center console does not nee to be removed one the hard has been done. P.M. Sent Call in the morning as I work in the afternoon, lest for Tuesday and Wednesday, all day is good.

I would probably be more than willing to have one made for you, after I have everything sorted out and reliable.

I MIGHT even offer a kit once the R/D is completely sorted and it is 100% reliable.

I will be using a completely stock engine initially to keep the swap simple. And it sounds like the DIS would be the way to go.

As far as the M90 is concerned, I haven't decided if I am going to modify the lower intake, or upper. My thought process is to either have the M90 mounted on a box made from the lower intake(which would allow a lower profiie to fit under the stock hood), OR to make extensions of some sort, and have the M90 blow upwards into a modded upper intake. I am actually on vacation in Cali right now, and won't be back in OH until Tues.

Your "facts" leave a bit to be desired, unless any of your newer high tech 60 degree **** is running in the 8's. Go spread your stuff on the 3800 performance forums, where your jet is irrelevant. This is the internet which neither you nor I own, and is open to all. You bashed the 3800 and I responded, simple as that, and check the title of your thread. If all you can handle are kissass opinions, be more careful when ASKING for opinions. BTW, I am 64 years old, so save the child psychology insult level for someone else. My ratings bar is pretty much derived from the off topic stuff that some of us disagree on with a bit of passion. Build whatever you like, I'll even follow the build with interest. Or do you have a problem with that as well?

[This message has been edited by weaselbeak (edited 02-01-2013).]

quote Originally posted by weaselbeak: Your "facts" leave a bit to be desired, unless any of your newer high tech 60 degree **** is running in the 8's. Go spread your stuff on the 3800 performance forums, where your jet is irrelevant. This is the internet which neither you nor I own, and is open to all. You bashed the 3800 and I responded, simple as that, and check the title of your thread. If all you can handle are kissass opinions, be more careful when ASKING for opinions. BTW, I am 64 years old, so save the child psychology insult level for someone else. My ratings bar is pretty much derived from the off topic stuff that some of us disagree on with a bit of passion. Build whatever you like, I'll even follow the build with interest. Or do you have a problem with that as well?

OMMFG. Seriously dude.

I asked opinions from EXPERIENCED GURUS who know the 60*V6, and related ECU's, about WHAT I AM DOING ON MY CAR. That means, obviously, NOT you. This means, OBVIOUSLY, DON'T clog my thread, TROLL.

YOU are OBVIOUSLY one of those self important idiots with either more $$$, or time, than respect, SKILL or SENSE.

Unfortunately, I'll have to FINISH THE CAR before posting any REAL info or a build thread.

WHY?

Because self-important, unproductive, inexperienced ppl like YOU will clog it up with I'm such a goof that I couldn't get laid in a Bangkok whorehouse, so I'll act tough, act knowledgeable, pretending I too, can be a man, online, NONSENSE.

I've TRIED to glean info and read threads here. DAMN NIGHTMARE because of SELF IMPORTANT PUNKS LIKE YOU that DON'T KNOW SQUAT except what my credit card can buy.

Get laid, smoke crack, get a hobby, drink a 5th. WHATEVER you need to do. Just you and your selective reading comprehension PLEASE get lost. Damn troll child, regardless of your age.

You ratings bar says all I need to know. YOU are irrelevant. Simple as that.

Get a life, Chester.

Respond again, and your red bar grows. I'm DONE trying to be patient with you.

[This message has been edited by agentc73 (edited 02-02-2013).]

Um, my name is short for Chester ya know.

Just an FYI

quote Originally posted by Cliff Pennock Forum Rules Don't try to circumvent the censor system. The forum software automatically censors some 4-letter words (and even some 5- and 6-letter words). Don't try to circumvent it. We all know what you mean with "you svck" (actually, "suck" isn't censored of course, but you get my point).

[This message has been edited by Mike Gonzalez (edited 02-02-2013).]

"or a 3800(balance shafts? No designed in band-aids/archaic 60's motor"

This is an opinion. It took you 11 posts to insult the choice of half the people in here.. If I pick up a little red for differing with it so be it. If you can't handle that, you won't be around long, either. Well done is better than well said, and my swap is on the road, a good bit of it done by me. Have a nice day.

[This message has been edited by weaselbeak (edited 02-02-2013).]

quote Originally posted by chetw77cruiser: Any 1227165 (16198259) will do regardless of the donor. I would recommend that you get the memcal from a 1227730/7727 out of a 2.8/3.1 car so the limp-home function works. Otherwise, the actual memcal in the ecu is replaced with a NVRAM module to allow the flashing and real-time tuning. I can get the nvram for you and if you send me the ecu, I will modify it as needed. I already have a tune for the stock 2.8 that will get us started. All that you would need would be an ALDL to usb adapter and a cuple software packages (Tunerpro RT is the main one), no other hardware is needed. Tuning is through the aldl port so the center console does not nee to be removed one the hard has been done.

Chet,
I have to apologize, I am not 100% sure what you are saying here.
I am not certain what you mean by memcal.
I love the idea of a limp home mode, definitely.
But are you saying that if set up for tune on the fly, that negates this function?
Are you saying that an ECU swap to the 7165 can be done BEFORE the 3400 swap?

I apologize. The extent of my automotive ECU experience is a KA24DE swap into a '74 Datsun 510 that I did few years ago.

[This message has been edited by agentc73 (edited 02-03-2013).]

No problem.

The memcal is the plastic carrier that contains the eprom chip and a couple other chips that are for the setting the computer up and limp home fueling circuit. When you pull the access cover off of the ecu, that is the first thing you will see.

The particular memcal module I recomend has a spot where the memcal is plugged into to retain the limp home mode.

The 7165 swap can be done now and will expand with you as you upgrade. Just a matter of changing the wiring harness to match the engine sensor locations and some minor tuning to match.

[This message has been edited by chetw77cruiser (edited 02-03-2013).]

quote Originally posted by chetw77cruiser: No problem. The memcal is the plastic carrier that contains the eprom chip and a couple other chips that are for the setting the computer up and limp home fueling circuit. When you pull the access cover off of the ecu, that is the first thing you will see. The particular memcal module I recomend has a spot where the memcal is plugged into to retain the limp home mode. The 7165 swap can be done now and will expand with you as you upgrade. Just a matter of changing the wiring harness to match the engine sensor locations and some minor tuning to match.

So is it the main motherboard of the ECU or a secondary sister board? (I'll be reading more about these ECUs after my vacation).
So you are saying get a 7165, no other bits? Or am I looking for 2 separate ECUs?

And you can flash it for a modded 2.8L(headers, cam, bored, ect I'll provide all details), and erase the EGR code to start out?

Oh, and I should get the bigger injectors beforehand...

You said a lot of info, but it isn't clear to me using all the unfamiliar terminology.

TY for your help!

[This message has been edited by agentc73 (edited 02-03-2013).]

You will need a 1227165 ecu.

NVRAM add-on module. I recommend this one. http://delcohacking.net/for...topic.php?f=14&t=167
If you want, I could get these for you. For a price . . . ONE MILLION DOLLARS!

I should be able to get you started on your tune.

quote Originally posted by chetw77cruiser: You will need a 1227165 ecu. NVRAM add-on module. I recommend this one. http://delcohacking.net/for...topic.php?f=14&t=167 If you want, I could get these for you. For a price . . . ONE MILLION DOLLARS! I should be able to get you started on your tune.

OK. I saw the donor car list awhile back, so I'll refresh my memory and hit the local yards late this week to find one(or a few).

A million is a bit above my paygrade. If I had that to throw, I wouldn't be here.
Further negotiations apparently will be required.
Remember we have discussed making you a custom S/C intake on the cheap for R/D's sake.

Kindness/gouging is returned in full!

TY again Chet!

[This message has been edited by agentc73 (edited 02-03-2013).]

I will be available all day tomorrow and most of Wednesday, give a call. I sent a PM with my number.