Aluminum cradle mount sets for 84-87 Fieros. This is an eight piece set that is made from 6061 aluminum billit. Price is $100.00 shipped in the US and $110.00 to Canada. I do not have paypal so if you want to order a set then please send a money order or equivelent to the address below. Thank you, Darrell Morse 21411 Concord St. NW Elk River, MN. 55330 763-441-5679
[This message has been edited by morse86@aol.com (edited 11-10-2006).]
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05:46 PM
PFF
System Bot
Nov 9th, 2006
morse86@aol.com Member
Posts: 1103 From: Elk River, Mn. U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2000
Gotta recommend these to anyone who has a Fiero. Great product, great service, and the end result is rather pleasing. If you're concerned about handling, this is a great, (and inexpensive!) way to make your car drive nicer.
Plus, they're SHINY!
-Steve
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03:22 PM
Nov 20th, 2006
1fastcaddy Member
Posts: 618 From: Hays, Kansas Registered: Oct 2004
I will keep that option as a last resort, the hole saw one.
I have used a drill also, the next couple sizes under 1/2 (I beleive) just drill through the rubber in as many places as possible an then kind of walk the drill around the center steel bushing until it falls out. not as clean a hole as the hole saw but still works. some clean out of the remaining rubber with a drill mounted wire brush might be needed.
------------------ Darrell Morse 21411 Concord ST. NW. Elk River, MN. 55330 (763) 441-5679 "Aluminum cradle mount sets & V6 throttle body modifications"
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06:15 AM
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System Bot
FierOmar Member
Posts: 1644 From: Glendale, California, USA Registered: Dec 2001
I have used a drill also, the next couple sizes under 1/2 (I beleive) just drill through the rubber in as many places as possible an then kind of walk the drill around the center steel bushing until it falls out. not as clean a hole as the hole saw but still works. some clean out of the remaining rubber with a drill mounted wire brush might be needed.
That's exactly how I did it. Fairly quick.
------------------ FierOmar
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08:00 AM
jstricker Member
Posts: 12956 From: Russell, KS USA Registered: Apr 2002
I've always wondered why you made your front bushings a 2 piece assembly instead of just a single piece. I've turned several of these out on the lathe and I've always made mine one piece with the shoulder on just one side.
I know you have a reason for doing it the way you do, I just can't figure out what it is.
John Stricker
PS: In NO WAY am I saying there's anything WRONG with the way Darrell does it. His bushings fit and work great and I have no problems with them, just seems like he's making a couple extra machining steps per side and I'm wondering why.
quote
Originally posted by morse86@aol.com:
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02:54 PM
morse86@aol.com Member
Posts: 1103 From: Elk River, Mn. U.S.A. Registered: Jan 2000
no secrets here, I have allways made them this way. Here's the story, when I first got into "the hobby" I seen a set of aluminum mounts that were installed in a V8 Fiero. during cornering and hard excelaration, there was some movement and also a little rattle comming from the back of the car. upon further inspection, I noticed that the front of the cradle would rattle from side to side and front to back (just a little) when you would rock the car back and forth in gear when parked. I am thinking that they may have been undersized to begin with. If they would have been machined to a much tighter tolerence they may never have been loose but to eliminate that variable, I decided to make the front bushings two piece so that when tightened up they would be sandwitched together and not ever be able to rattle or be loose. made sense to me so that is why I did it this way. hope this helps. btw, I have sets in stock in case any one is looking for a christmas gift for there Fiero! (shamless plug!) later,
------------------ Darrell Morse 21411 Concord ST. NW. Elk River, MN. 55330 (763) 441-5679 "Aluminum cradle mount sets & V6 throttle body modifications"
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04:57 PM
jstricker Member
Posts: 12956 From: Russell, KS USA Registered: Apr 2002
Makes perfect sense. I do mine a little different just to save having to machine the extra bushings. I put a shoulder on one side, just like yours, then cut them off the proper length after machining. Because I've noticed some variation in side to side (fractions of an inch) when the cradle rotates up to put the back bolts in, I get the cradle up and lined up with the rear holes, center the cradle, then drill a hole through the sleeves at an angle to miss the center bolt hole and pin the bushings with a roll pin. This locks everything in place and eliminates the rattles. I guess if a person wanted to really get the alignment precise they could just make the center bushings smooth and then machine the shoulders as thick washers (like you do the rear ones) the appropriate thickness for alignment, slip them on each end, and tighten them up.
I may have to try doing it that way the next time.
Thanks for the answer, I knew there was a reason.
John Stricker
quote
Originally posted by morse86@aol.com:
no secrets here, I have allways made them this way. Here's the story, when I first got into "the hobby" I seen a set of aluminum mounts that were installed in a V8 Fiero. during cornering and hard excelaration, there was some movement and also a little rattle comming from the back of the car. upon further inspection, I noticed that the front of the cradle would rattle from side to side and front to back (just a little) when you would rock the car back and forth in gear when parked. I am thinking that they may have been undersized to begin with. If they would have been machined to a much tighter tolerence they may never have been loose but to eliminate that variable, I decided to make the front bushings two piece so that when tightened up they would be sandwitched together and not ever be able to rattle or be loose. made sense to me so that is why I did it this way. hope this helps. btw, I have sets in stock in case any one is looking for a christmas gift for there Fiero! (shamless plug!) later,
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09:08 PM
Nov 23rd, 2006
1fastcaddy Member
Posts: 618 From: Hays, Kansas Registered: Oct 2004
Put a set of the aluminum mounts in my '87 GT. Really nice items, fit well, look great, shipped quickly, etc., etc.. To remove old rubber bushings: Heat the bushing cradle sleeves slowly and evenly; the rubber that contacts heated metal will begin to sizzle and ooze out of sleeve -CAREFUL....HOT RUBBER BURNS(and stinks!); push the rubber bushing with something like a hammer handle; BE CAREFULL....as you continue to heat/push the bushing will eventually shoot out (my first one suprised me - no pushing and with an audible POP, it went ~8ft. across driveway - good thing I had it pointed away from me!); you'll be left with a slight film/remnant of rubber in the sleeve ID; wire brush, flapper wheel, or scotch brite pad will easily remove. you may have to do some additional sanding/filing of the bushing ID's or the OD of the bushings to get a fit; this happens if the bushing sleeve is a little out of round, and distorted; DON'T remove too much metal - just enough to get a good press fit. Good luck. Ray in Texas.
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12:09 PM
Feb 8th, 2007
Vladd Member
Posts: 169 From: Blacksburg, VA Registered: Apr 2006
Since the bushing is metal already, why not replace the entire stock piece?
Does the aluminum wear if it isn't encased in the steel of the old rubber bushing?
I ask because the first time I tried to replace my control arm bushings, I popped out the entire bushing on accident. It was cleaner and easier but I know poly needs protection
------------------ Blue 1987 GT, Blue 1987 Coupe, 4.5 V8 1987 GT www.FierosandMore.comThis is a link to my personal web site, has pictures of all my projects and parts for sale.
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08:07 PM
Dennis LaGrua Member
Posts: 15475 From: Hillsborough, NJ U.S.A. Registered: May 2000
Probably great bushings to have but I went with Prothane Poly Cradle bushings P/N 7-502 for $40.00 /set from Summit Racing Equipment. Aluminum is probably stronger but I can't see that the poly w steel bushings has all that much play. These Prothane bushings fit tight and look super but not saying that they are better.
Probably great bushings to have but I went with Prothane Poly Cradle bushings P/N 7-502 for $40.00 /set from Summit Racing Equipment. Aluminum is probably stronger but I can't see that the poly w steel bushings has all that much play. These Prothane bushings fit tight and look super but not saying that they are better.
I was wondering about this. I know I've seen these aluminum biscuits around for a while, but like you said, I had a hard time reconciling an additional 60 bucks over the poly. Even if the poly wear out, I can pop in a new set and still be 20 bucks ahead. I'm not slamming these aluminum pieces by any means, I just wonder if they're worth the extra cheddar. I could see how going from sloppy old rubber to these would probably seem like a new car, has anyone gone from poly to these? And if so, what was the difference?
