I too decided to relocate the battery to the front of the car. I just took some 1/8" aluminum and sheared it, formed it, TIG welded it and installed it underneath the right headlight. Real easy to do.
Note: I'm using the GT fascia. (This battery box will be hidden by this fascia). Non Aero cars might not be able to get away with this mod as the battery may interfere with the plastic.
Passenger side head lamp assembly.
After removal.
Cut the sheet metal and you're left with a hole.
Trim these two studs a little as they interfere with the battery box flange.
Now is a good time to paint the area since it's exposed.
Secure battery box with 1/4" hardware.
Despite not showing the battery in position, here you can see the clearance.
If I remove the curved steel from the bottom of the fascia, I can bolt that area to the battery box. (That should be a good indication of how low my battery box sits).
You can also mount the dyna batt battery under the passenger head light w/o cutting any of the chassis sheet metal, it fits the GT and notchback fascias, and is lighter. Mine has been installed for 3+ years w/o issue cranking over my LS4/F40 combo.
V-8 Archie makes a fiberglass battery box that locates the battery under the spare tire, directly above the center of the front cross member. The mass of the battery is low and centered, well protected from collision and curb damage and is non conductive. I've used them several times and consider Archie's product to be the best option for relocation of the battery.
You can also mount the dyna batt battery under the passenger head light w/o cutting any of the chassis sheet metal, it fits the GT and notchback fascias, and is lighter. Mine has been installed for 3+ years w/o issue cranking over my LS4/F40 combo.
Originally posted by 2.5: I don't know a lot about batteries, is 16 ah enough for normal car use? I think more common car batteries are more like 30 ah?
It ultimately is a personal decision...
I have been using it for 3 years, driven the car nearly 30K miles (3 season daily driver), the car is parked outside every winter with everything hooked up and w/o a battery tender, in the spring I turn the key and it fires right up. So for me, it works like any other battery I have ever had, but is smaller, lighter, and fits in an out of the way position.
Now if I left the lights on, or used accessory power an excessive amount with the engine off... then yes, the battery would run down and potentially need a jump start sooner than a larger battery would.
I have been using it for 3 years, driven the car nearly 30K miles (3 season daily driver), the car is parked outside every winter with everything hooked up and w/o a battery tender, in the spring I turn the key and it fires right up. So for me, it works like any other battery I have ever had, but is smaller, lighter, and fits in an out of the way position.
Now if I left the lights on, or used accessory power an excessive amount with the engine off... then yes, the battery would run down and potentially need a jump start sooner than a larger battery would.
I use the DYNA-BATT batteries and fieroguru summed it up perfectly! They fit nicely in the trunk as well.
Then in the stock battery position, put in this remote Kill-Switch:
Give you a key chain remote that allows you to remotely turn on & off your battery. The best part about this kit...it has a separate hot wire that you feed back to your the memory wire of your radio...so you don't loose your time and any of your settings
[This message has been edited by TXOPIE (edited 06-23-2016).]
