I am tempted to try this. My headboard is in good condition with no dings or fingerprints. Only thing wrong is my headliner is torn and not sticking to the board. How would you do this with a sunroof??
i used the 3M super trim adhesive on my chrysler new yorker with a roof center console that also needed to be covered (had a bunch of curves, that was a pain). but i never had a problem with it, it held strong for the year afterwards i had it. but i also used like 3 cans. looked great too.
I've used 3M FoamFast 74 with great results on 10 to 15 headliners through the years. it's made for foam backed fabric. I got it at Hancock Fabrics for about $10.00 per spraycan. I believe I can get two headliners out of a can including headliners on full size cars.
i used fibreglas cloth an resin to repair and stiffen up my badly damaged headboard .i worked the resin into it pretty much everywhere and it is fairly stiff but i didnt find it hard to get in the car.i then covered it with burlap using 3m spray 90 adhesive and painted it with metallic black paint.been up 2 years now with no problems.cheap fix and gives a different look .
Ok I will redo my headliner soon....I need some more info.
Is it possible to reuse the original headliner fabric (already on the headline panel) with good result or it's mandatory to use new fabric?
Whats the name of the fabric used to do the original factory headliner?
Where I can find this fabric?Can I find it in fabric store or other places?
Can I glue directly to the panel the headliner fabric? and is it the best choice?
Or do I have to put a sheet of foam between the fabric and the headliner panel? And whats the best material to put between and where it is sold?
If I've read correctly, the best choice if you have a paint spay gun is to use contact cement, but the best spay can choice is 3M Super Trim Adhesive 8090.
Thanks for your help.
I always use spray gun with contact cement. Trick is NOT to put it on heavy. I take a quart of cement DAP Weldwood Original for Laminates, thin it with less than 1/2 pint of laquer thinner and spray it directly out of gun set at nearly closed pattern...not fanned. Spray a coat on both surfaces. It should come out stringy almost like silly string. Let it dry for a few minutes and then stick it on. I at first did my Ferrari kit in oem fabric, but later decided to do it in vinyl. I could not pull it off more than an inch from the edges even with heat. So I just put the vinyl on with same method right over the oem (padding?). It stayed just fine for next 6 years then I sold the car. Im assuming its still there. This is also the way i put commercial floor carpet to the ceiling of custom coaches, bookmobiles, mobile police ops. That carpet was so heavy it took 5 or 6 of us to lift it into the vehicle. Not one I know of ever came loose. Some say its overkill, but I like that better than redoing it every other year.
So i have the headliner pulled from my parts car to work on and in case I screw something up. My plan is to glass it to help it reinforce it, but im debating on using leather or glassing a bit more and painting to match the exterior. Any thoughts or comments? Has anyone done this?
------------------ S.A.R.S. Drive it like you stole it
I considered some reinforcing when I re-covered mine last year. In the end, I didn't reinforce it because it was stiffer after putting on the leatherette than it was before, and I wanted to retain enough flexibility so that it wasn't a PITA to put back in place.
Has anyone installed one of the new fibreglass backed Fiero Store headliners yet?
------------------ '85 SE 2M6 automatic '84 SE 2M4 manual (and trying to buy an Indy...)
Is there a good way to do this with vinyl? Ive tried and It doesnt seem to conform to the shapes without wrinkling horribly its a pretty strechy vinyl too but im getting beyond frustrated with it any tips or links to guides to redo headliners in vinyl?
any body know where i can get a good used headliner board for an 86 se with sunroof and third brake light?, i know about the fiero store and i was thinking about getting the abs that comes covered but heard on here that the light grey looks more tan than grey. if thats true i will be disappointed after spending the 200.00 + it costs. they also have the fiberglass one for 100.00 but that one dont come covered and the 3rd brake light has to be cut out, and after you buy the material to finish the job or pay someone to do it your almost about back up to 200.00 again. my board broke up into about 10 pcs. after being soaked by sunroof leak, so i wasn't even going to try to salvage it. looking for one already done in light grey factory style that i can install right out of the box! let me know thanks, kevin
Is there a good way to do this with vinyl? Ive tried and It doesnt seem to conform to the shapes without wrinkling horribly its a pretty strechy vinyl too but im getting beyond frustrated with it any tips or links to guides to redo headliners in vinyl?
On page 3 RACE did his in vinyl. Shoot him a PM or email. Maybe he can help.
I was wondering if anyone has redone their sunshade yet? For the sunroof owners that use the sunshade, most of the problem is with the dropping cloth on the sunshade. The cloth is sewen to the backer board too. I see the FS has reproduction ones, but was curious if anyone out there has a solution.
After using all the diffrent spray can glues including the 20 buck a can 3m stuff I did like roger said to do and I went to harbor freight and got a cheapo gun and went and got the wellwood contact glue for countertops at home depot and I havent had a problem since plus the stuff works great on simulated leather and seat type foam!
Is there a good way to do this with vinyl? Ive tried and It doesnt seem to conform to the shapes without wrinkling horribly its a pretty strechy vinyl too but im getting beyond frustrated with it any tips or links to guides to redo headliners in vinyl?
Its almost as easy as doing it with foamed cloth. If you never done it before, might take a few extra hands to help hold the glued vinyl or leather up off of the board. Let the center drop in till it touches, then work it gently out towards each side while they hold up the ends. DONT STRETCH IT, just let it fall and press it into the nooks and crannies. MAKE SURE you let the glue dry till its dry to the touch before you try to put them together. Im so proficient at it now, I mostly do it all by myself. If the glue is wet, it wont stay. Like Ive said already, Ive done this with cars, custom motor homes, planes and boats for many years without a single problem. The DAP glue is permanent and will never come down if you follow the instructions. AGain, dont stick it down wet...it will fail. Ill also say again, even doing headliners in heavy carpet it works perfect. Ive done everything from bookmobiles, police mobile offices, Red Cross bloodmobiles, mobile medical buses, to stars custom built RVs. Ive never had a single failure. To the poster who says this glue pulled his vinyl apart...the glue worked so well, it pulled the backing off of the cheap vinyl he must have used. Ive never had that happen. Ive seen cheap carpet and vinyl that you could pull the cloth backing off of without any trouble. A lot of customizers are now using the coarse tweed like fabric on panels, mostly because its amazingly formable to all kinds of shapes...even dashes and consoles, without bunching up or wrinkling.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 07-17-2012).]
I just did my headliner about a month ago, yeah it was a nasty job (my backer board was in 4 pieces, patched it with the the fiberglass resin and then went all around the outside of it with the resin to beef the board up).
There has been all kinds of debate about what glue to use, which gets confusing! The place I purchased my material sold me the 3M 77 product, but after reading what others used, I didn't feel confident with that product. Others have said the 3M 90 is great, along with lots of other products from various manufactures. I ended up with 3M Headliner And Fabric Adhesive, Part # 38808. I figured 3M is a trusted brand, and this product is "called out" specific for this application, so it must be what they recommend. Who knows, it might be the same as what you'd find in the 3M 90 or even the 77, but at least the #38808 is specific for its purpose.
Anyway, it's not been long enough for me to say how well the #38808 glue is holding up, but thus far it's good. I followed the instructions to the letter (coat both the material and the backer board, then wait a little while for the glue to set up, then carefully mate them together....) and it turned out well. The project sure took me a long time, getting all the molding off and then repairing the backer board (and filling in where the sunvisor mount crushed the backer board...etc., etc.). So my advice is go slow, allow the project to spoil your weekend; you'll be happier with the results if you don't try to rush it.
I've got two more cars to do down the road, might go faster now that I've done it, and I'm "hoping" that the backer boards are in one piece this time...(even so I'll still re-enforce them with the fiberglass resin so they'll last).
not over here much so I never saw this until now, but I will second the contact adhesive for the headliner material, that's what we used at the factory when I did headliners, long ago and far away, think late 70s.
those days just the outer edges of the headliner were glued the center hang from wires that were supported from clips on the sides if I remember right, remember this was decades ago.
anyway we would hang the headliner on a board half and half on each side of the board that swiveled so we could spray the outside of it that need to be glued with a spray gun, then let them sit until the car it was going in came by. then another guy up the line would go around with a bucket of contact cement and brush it on the areas would come in contact with the stuff we sprayed on the liner, allowing some time for both to set before they were to get used.
then we would hang the headliner by the wirers and stretch the outer edges to the glued part of the roof that had been previously been contact cement.
so use contact cement.
great write up by the way.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Great write up Dwayne, and all the others that added info. I'll be doing my headliner this winter and after reading this I feel confident that I can do it the right way
