It's been many years since I posted on this forum back when I had my '88 notch. I have recently acquired an '84 2m4 that has been in dirt floor barn storage for a decade or better. I'm a mechanically inclined person but I would consider myself a novice under the hood of a car aside from knowing the basic workings. What should be the short list of must check items before attempting to fire this old duke up again? I'm assuming I need to drain the tank and change the fuel filter along with changing out coolant and making sure the tranny has fluid. Battery would good if I can get what's left of the tray to hold one. Ideally I'd like to have it running just well enough to move in and out of the garage under it's own power. It doesn't need to be road worthy in the least as I'm planning an engine swap down the road.
Replace ALL fluids and filters (oil, gas, coolant, tranny fluid, brake fluid, clutch (brake) fluid). Let the car idle for about 15 minutes then change the oil and filter again. Before you drive it, replace the brakes (calipers, pads, rotors). (It's more important to be able to stop than it is to go.) Dig out the leaves, rat nests and other detrius by the blower motor.
If it's not at your house, have it towed (preferably flatbedded) to your house before you do anything to it. Much easier to llie under it in your own garage than in some filthy barn.
First make sure you have a clear title and understand state registration fees/taxes. Many have been burned for either or both. Some states require you to pay old fees and back taxes even if car was parked and not running. Any lien on the title will cause problems. State will not transfer a tittle when they have a lien on their system regardless of paper tittle.
Expect to have coolant problems now or soon. If system was full... Coolant will separate out and cause problems like WP seal fails after engine is running. Fuel problems from bad gas. Brake problems.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I do have the title and the fees are not a worry. The rust is though. The car was dropped off at my place via flatbed and I've been busy enough I haven't really been able to get under it past a quick glance. I saw at the very least a good amount of surface rust which would be expected in the midwest. I suppose assessing the rust situation would be top priority before digging too far into this. Thanks for the replies!
The worst of the rust will probably be in the upper rear frame rails and the sides of the trunk, where those frame rails are welded. Pull the rear wheel well liners out, to observe. If it's been sitting flat on the ground, the floorboards are probably at least "iffy".
Pull the plugs and spray in your favorite lubricant, some people like PB Blaster others WD-40. Let it set overnight and then rotate engine with the plugs out. If all is well then put in the plugs and let her smoke a few minutes! Little bit of upper cylinder lube. After 10 years it has to be dry. Find out where the car was driven primarily, It will give you a hint about rust, but we don't worry about small details like rust! You've found Treasure!
If it is a rust bucket, just scrap it. It's not like there is anything rare or special about an 84 Fiero.. There still seem so be a decent supply of 88 Fieros available from the southern states at a reasonable cost. Why get frustrated with the losing battle against rust, when you can start with a solid car? Remember, your time has $$ value too
I have always used some automatic tranny fluid in the cylinders by way of a spray bottle. It's a light oil that won't strip the bearings if it makes it down to the pan and will burn off easily. Also works good for storing an engine or storing carburetors ( showing my age lol) for a period of time.
[This message has been edited by Turbowedge (edited 09-13-2015).]
