hi. this is my first post here, i have a 1987 gt auto trans fiero & need to replace the alternator due to no charge/low volt issue. i have been reading up on replacing this on auto cars & get mixed info, some say it can be done others say you have to drop the engine cradle to get it out.

can annyone confirm if this can be done with basic tools in my garage or should i pay a shop to do it. any links to a tutorial or basic steps required would be a great help. thanks!

quote Originally posted by fierofan87: hi. this is my first post here, i have a 1987 gt auto trans fiero & need to replace the alternator due to no charge/low volt issue. i have been reading up on replacing this on auto cars & get mixed info, some say it can be done others say you have to drop the engine cradle to get it out. can annyone confirm if this can be done with basic tools in my garage or should i pay a shop to do it. any links to a tutorial or basic steps required would be a great help. thanks!

I did it on an '85 (same chassis) V6, auto and removed it out the bottom/side. I removed the wheel well flap and lower alt. bracket. From there, it came out. Some have disconnected the tie-rod. You may want to upgrade to an '88 alternator, while you are doing this.

From Chiltons:
Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable.

Loosen the top alternator bracket-to-engine bolt.

Remove the two upper alternator bracket bolts.

Raise the vehicle and support with jackstands.

Remove the rear wheel assemblies.

Remove the right rear splash guard.

Remove the outer tie rod end and swing up and to the left.

Lower the alternator bracket-to-engine bolt.

Remove the alternator adjusting bolts and belt.

Remove the upper alternator-to-bracket bolt and electrical connectors.

Rotate the alternator bracket lower end toward the engine. Remove the alternator and shield.

To install:

Install the alternator and shield assembly.

Connect the electrical wires in back of alternator.

Install the upper alternator-to-bracket bolt and adjusting bolt.

Rotate the alternator and bracket up into position and install the lower alternator bracket-to-engine bolt.

Install the two upper alternator-to-engine bolts and torque to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).

Install the rear alternator bracket-to-engine bolt and torque to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).

Install the alternator belt and adjust belt. Torque the tensioner bolt to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).

Install the tie rod end and torque the nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm). Do NOT change adjustment.

Install the splash guards, rear wheel assemblies and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).

Lower the vehicle and torque the rear alternator bracket-to-alternator bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Reconnect the negative (-) battery cable

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 11-04-2015).]

thanks for the info. whats involved with the 88 change? is it just a new connector? & whats the benefit. this car sees very low miles & im on a pretty tight budget so im sure the 87 alt would be fine, but if its easy & same cost to convert to the 88 i would consider it.

quote Originally posted by fierofan87: thanks for the info. whats involved with the 88 change?

Info in This thread. Despite the problems that the poster had in that thread, it's a simple swap. The benefit is better charging at low RPM.

thanks for the chilton info, i will be trying this very soon, hopefully it comes out as described, i have read horror stories about doing this on v6 auto cars, one guy said he had to lower the engine cradle!

fingers crossed it comes out how chiltons says it will.

quote Originally posted by fierofan87: thanks for the chilton info, i will be trying this very soon, hopefully it comes out as described, i have read horror stories about doing this on v6 auto cars, one guy said he had to lower the engine cradle! fingers crossed it comes out how chiltons says it will.

I haven't heard of lowering the cradle I have heard of people splitting the alt. case and taking it out in two pieces. crazy. Just pop the tie-rod if that is the case. Much easier.