1988 GT with stock V6, 5-speed Okay, I know this topic has been gone over time and time again and I've read through all the topics and been to the cave, and they have not helped me. My car has been in three shops for this problem, with no findings. I have some sort of battery drain, as the topic suggests. I have hooked up the voltmeter in the past and just did it again to be sure, but there is no drain on the battery, as far as I can see, while it sits. It has not been started for a few days now. However, I have been through 10 batteries in as many years. The dash voltmeter always reads perfect. This is whats going on: If I get a new battery everything works perfectly for a few days. Then one day the car won't start and will need to be jumped. The car works fine for a day or two. After it sits for a bit it won't start again and will need to be jumped. It can go like this for about three of four jumps, then even after long trips a jump won't work unless I hook the jumper cables up directly to the battery. Of course, at that point, after every time I turn the car off I have to jump directly to the battery until I replace the battery. I had finally installed a "quick" disconnect, but with the location of the disconnect it really wasn't all that quick and became a chore to drive the car in order to not destroy the battery. When using the disconnect method the battery has lasted indefinitely (so far, just under a year). It's starting to warm up here again and I would like to be able to drive my Fiero without the hassle of disconnecting the battery every time I stop. Any and ALL help would be greatly appreciated. P.S. I'm not 100% sure I'm doing the voltmeter right, but seriously, I've used them 100 times before, not sure what I would be doing wrong, but I'm getting a read of 0.00 mA when testing but I am getting 12.76 V. I didn't think the mA should read zero.
In order to test for a parasitic draw, the ammeter must be connected in series between the battery post and negative cable. This way all of the current can pass through the meter for a proper reading. Be careful not to overload your meter. Using a tester switch makes things a little more convenient.
We don't know what exactly you've checked over the years, but have you changed or tested your alternator?
Good question. I have not. Since it seems to charge the battery while driving, the voltmeter in the car always reads fine, and it dies while sitting (when the alternator is doing anything) I have considered it low on the list of possible culprits.
For fun, if it turns out the be an alternator issue, I will punch myself in the face and post the video here. I could have saved 10 years of headaches.
Have the alternator tested AND inspect the alternator bracket for cracks. I had similar issues that allowed me to drive, and it turned out that the alternator bracket had cracked. A good pothole finished the job for me.
For fun, if it turns out the be an alternator issue, I will punch myself in the face and post the video here. I could have saved 10 years of headaches.
Well, I mentioned the alternator as I have heard of them shorting/grounding out internally while sitting.
This sounds like a WalMart Neverstart battery issue.
This is not a joke. What brand of battery are you using?
Hmmm... Tell me more. I believe that's what I get. I'd look, but I'm not home. I know I get it at Walmart and that it have a 5 year warranty on it because I go through so many batteries. Could I truly have just gotten 10 terrible batteries over the course of 10 years?
In order to test for a parasitic draw, the ammeter must be connected in series between the battery post and negative cable. This way all of the current can pass through the meter for a proper reading. Be careful not to overload your meter. Using a tester switch makes things a little more convenient.
Hmmm... Tell me more. I believe that's what I get. I'd look, but I'm not home. I know I get it at Walmart and that it have a 5 year warranty on it because I go through so many batteries. Could I truly have just gotten 10 terrible batteries over the course of 10 years?
Yep
There's a reason why they are known as "Neverstart".
Also, if you've noticed, they never give anybody an issue over the warranty. They'li just hand you a new battery. Why? Because they known they're junk.
Quit screwing around and buy an Interstate. Warranties are nice, but how many times do you want to pull out a battery and take it back? Okay..... silly question.
[This message has been edited by Thunderstruck GT (edited 02-27-2016).]
I went to Walmart once for a battery. They insisted on testing both the battery and charging system. Even gave me a printout. BTW they said it wasn't the battery or alternator. That turned out to be correct.
I went to Walmart once for a battery. They insisted on testing both the battery and charging system. Even gave me a printout. BTW they said it wasn't the battery or alternator. That turned out to be correct.
The only thing they ever have checked for me is the battery I'm returning. And they always make me wait about four hours as they charge it. If the dang thing could hold a charge do they really think I would be wasting my time exchanging it?
If you are reading 0 mA then you are definitely don't the test wrong. Normal draw with everything shut down should be about 15mA.
That's kind of what I thought. But I can't imagine what I'm doing wrong. I'm able to get a voltage reading, why can't I get mA? Guess I'll try again today.
That's kind of what I thought. But I can't imagine what I'm doing wrong. I'm able to get a voltage reading, why can't I get mA? Guess I'll try again today.
Volts and amps aren't measured the same way. The meter leads are in series between the cable and battery. Check the internal fuse of your meter to make sure it's still good.
Volts and amps aren't measured the same way. The meter leads are in series between the cable and battery. Check the internal fuse of your meter to make sure it's still good.
Well the fuse is ceramic so I can't check it (at least I don't know how to). So I went ahead and ordered some new fuses. They will be here Monday 3/7. I will update sometime after that. Thanks for all the help.
Just in case others are assuming you know how to use the milliamp portion of your meter and you do not.... Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery. Put your meter in the milliamp position. Put the positive lead from the meter onto the battery terminal. Touch the other meter lead to the now disconnected cable. Be sure when you do this nothing is turned on including dome lights from having the door open. With nothing going the reading should be near 15 milliamps. There is probably a clock in the radio. If you have an alarm system or remote door locks they will cause a higher reading.
The control that raises and lower the headlights is a common cause of your issue.
Did you use a meter to test your draw at all? I am still having a draw but mines alot smaller now, i've taken it from .15 amps to .05 amps. still enough to drain it over a day.
Did you use a meter to test your draw at all? I am still having a draw but mines alot smaller now, i've taken it from .15 amps to .05 amps. still enough to drain it over a day.
50 miliamps should not drain your battery in one day.
5 amps would certainly drain it in a day. Are you sure which setting you have it on?
I've had/am having this same issue. It has gotten better and worse, as measured with a multimeter. For instance it was steady at about 10 amps. I started taking apart the dash and removed the radio. No drain!
I redid the radio harness, soldering and heat shrinking all the connections. Hooked it up - the needle pegged!
Disconnected the harness, drain went back to 10 amps.
I really don't see what the harness alone could be doing. I think the problem is somewhere in that area that gets disturbed when I work on it. My plan is to connect a buzzer I got from RadioShack the same way you're connecting the multimeter or a test light, only I should be able to hear the buzzer stop or at least change volume when I rustle the problem area.
Just a silly thought...is the trunk light switch operating properly? If the light does not shut off when you close the trunk, that would cause quite a bit of drain. Just my 2 cents.
My dad had a bad drain on his car last year. Since he lives across the country I had to help him diagnose it over the phone and through email. First thing I told him to do was to turn off his headlights. He said his headlights weren't on. I then proceeded to spend several hours back and forth through email trying to help him to diagnose the problem....but was unsuccessful in helping him track it down (no multimeter available). The next day he emailed me back...and admitted the headlights had been left on. Just a reminder to always check the silly stuff first.
Common sources of drains are door/trunk switches, alternators, relays and oil pressure sensor. The best way to find problems is always with a multimeter used to check the current drain in series with one of the battery cables and then start by pulling fuses one at a time to see if the drain goes away. If it does, then you can focus on wires/components on that circuit. A wiring diagram is also a must have item (along with the multimeter).
Just a silly thought...is the trunk light switch operating properly? If the light does not shut off when you close the trunk, that would cause quite a bit of drain. Just my 2 cents.
I don't actually have a bulb in the trunk light. Would it still cause draw without bulb in there to complete the circuit?
My dad had a bad drain on his car last year. Since he lives across the country I had to help him diagnose it over the phone and through email. First thing I told him to do was to turn off his headlights. He said his headlights weren't on. I then proceeded to spend several hours back and forth through email trying to help him to diagnose the problem....but was unsuccessful in helping him track it down (no multimeter available). The next day he emailed me back...and admitted the headlights had been left on. Just a reminder to always check the silly stuff first.
Common sources of drains are door/trunk switches, alternators, relays and oil pressure sensor. The best way to find problems is always with a multimeter used to check the current drain in series with one of the battery cables and then start by pulling fuses one at a time to see if the drain goes away. If it does, then you can focus on wires/components on that circuit. A wiring diagram is also a must have item (along with the multimeter).
My headlights certainly are not on, and I don't have stock headlights so it's not a motor running as my headlights are not pop up, but I do see what you're getting at. I guess I should have mentioned that all fuses had been tested by the shops and nothing fuse related is the issue. So I guess relays are next.
My new fuses for my multimeter came in. Put a new one in and with my multimeter set to 200mA the reading immediately jumped to 63. something then blew that fuse. Good thing I got a five pack. I disconnect the alternator and put in another fuse and the same things happened. I tried using the 10A side but it's giving me trouble too. I think maybe my multimeter hates working properly. I'm not going to promise it's not user error, but I have use multimeters with great success in the past. So maybe I'll borrow one from someone or just buy a new one and try again.
Just in case others are assuming you know how to use the milliamp portion of your meter and you do not.... Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery. Put your meter in the milliamp position. Put the positive lead from the meter onto the battery terminal. Touch the other meter lead to the now disconnected cable. Be sure when you do this nothing is turned on including dome lights from having the door open. With nothing going the reading should be near 15 milliamps. There is probably a clock in the radio. If you have an alarm system or remote door locks they will cause a higher reading.
The control that raises and lower the headlights is a common cause of your issue.
Thank you, this was a very thorough reply. That sounds exactly what I've done only I test on the negative side, just in case I manage to drop a lead and it hits a ground on the car as I hold the other lead to the battery. I do not have motorized headlights.
My new fuses for my multimeter came in. Put a new one in and with my multimeter set to 200mA the reading immediately jumped to 63. something then blew that fuse. Good thing I got a five pack. I disconnect the alternator and put in another fuse and the same things happened. I tried using the 10A side but it's giving me trouble too. I think maybe my multimeter hates working properly. I'm not going to promise it's not user error, but I have use multimeters with great success in the past. So maybe I'll borrow one from someone or just buy a new one and try again.
Is your multimeter digital or analog? If it is digital and showed 63 before blowing the fuse then the number may be meaningless....they often flash intermediate numbers on their way up to the full amount (unless you mean it sat at 63 for a while, then blew the fuse). Safe bet is always to start at 10A and work your way down. What do you mean by "it's giving you trouble"? If you are blowing fuses at 10A then you have a full short.
Alright! Let's see if I can shed some light on this subject. Fieros are notorious for bad grounds. This is a good place to start. Go through each grounding station in the car. You can purchase a Fiero book from Autozone and it has a wiring diagram for the car. It will show you each grounding point and the main point as well. Also, an old trick from back in the day was to take a test light and connect it between the positive terminal and the positive side of the cable. The light should come on on the test light. At this point you pull fuses from the fuse panel one at a time. Replace each fuse when you pull them out. Watch the test light and see if it goes out each time you pull a fuse. When the light goes out, you found your drain. That is where your repair begins and hopefully ends the problem. I hope this works for you. It has solved all my power problems in the past.
Alright! Let's see if I can shed some light on this subject. Fieros are notorious for bad grounds. This is a good place to start. Go through each grounding station in the car. You can purchase a Fiero book from Autozone and it has a wiring diagram for the car. It will show you each grounding point and the main point as well. Also, an old trick from back in the day was to take a test light and connect it between the positive terminal and the positive side of the cable. The light should come on on the test light. At this point you pull fuses from the fuse panel one at a time. Replace each fuse when you pull them out. Watch the test light and see if it goes out each time you pull a fuse. When the light goes out, you found your drain. That is where your repair begins and hopefully ends the problem. I hope this works for you. It has solved all my power problems in the past.
Bad grounds shouldn't cause a drain (but you are correct that Fieros seem to be prone for them and it never hurts to clean and tighten the connections). The problem with using a test light is that small drains may not cause the light to come on. A multimeter gives much more detailed information about the drain.
Get AC/DC amp clamp meter and be done guessing how to use DVM, taking apart harness or worse, cutting and splicing it.
you find "cheap" ones ~$50+
Note: Most used or cheaper units, the clamp is AC only but other functions AC/DC. Check this before buying.
Walmart's EverStart made by Johnson Controls. JC makes Many batteries sold thru Kmart/Sears, Interstate, etc.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Unfortunately the fuse box is not in an optimum postion to test each circuit but here is an option to buying the meter. Look at the car fuse closely you will see,there are little metal contact point on them, at least many of them. Place your meter on DC millivolts and measure across the fuse on these contact points. If there isn't any current flow the meter will read zero.
