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SBC Anyone do a remote mount water pump? by grkboy707
Started on: 02-11-2017 03:35 PM
Replies: 11 (1003 views)
Last post by: fieroguru on 03-17-2018 02:27 PM
grkboy707
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Report this Post02-11-2017 03:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for grkboy707Send a Private Message to grkboy707Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi everyone, I finally started saying that my 350 swap is reliable, and the water pump started acting up. It has power to it, but sometimes it cuts out and I need to tap on the pump for it to kick on. I started looking into getting rid of my junk Proform, and getting a remote mount. That seems like it would take care of a lot of the problems the current set up makes. It would be easier to drop the cradle, and I wouldn't have a water pump sticking out of my fender well. Just wondering if anyone had any luck with a remote mount or any other set up.
Thanks,
Greg

[This message has been edited by grkboy707 (edited 02-11-2017).]

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fieroguru
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Report this Post02-11-2017 05:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There are several ways to run a remote water pump. If you want to go electric, you can mount the pump under the batter tray and run the hoses into the engine bay. One of the more tedious tasks is getting the fittings for the water pump holes in the block to clear the frame rails.



You can also mount the pump in the battery location:




If you can do some machining and welding, you can also run a remote mechanical water pump...





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T4Turtle
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Report this Post03-15-2018 02:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for T4TurtleSend a Private Message to T4TurtleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Fieroguru, I am mounting an electric water pump in the passenger wheel well for a SBC. The routing of the water lines is tight with the expansion tank lines. I do not see these lines in your pictures here. Did you re route the expansion tank lines? This is what I am thinking about doing. Or getting rid of the expansion tank, but not sure I can or want to do this.
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fieroguru
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Report this Post03-15-2018 02:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You can shorten the hard lines going to the expansion tank and replace with rubber lines to more easily clear the water pump. I would not remove the expansion tank.
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T4Turtle
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Report this Post03-15-2018 04:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for T4TurtleSend a Private Message to T4TurtleEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thank You!
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hnthomps
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Report this Post03-15-2018 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hnthompsSend a Private Message to hnthompsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Accidental Double post

Nelson

[This message has been edited by hnthomps (edited 03-15-2018).]

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hnthomps
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Report this Post03-15-2018 08:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hnthompsSend a Private Message to hnthompsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

hnthomps

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Member since Jul 2003
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

There are several ways to run a remote water pump. If you want to go electric, you can mount the pump under the batter tray and run the hoses into the engine bay. One of the more tedious tasks is getting the fittings for the water pump holes in the block to clear the frame rails.

You can also mount the pump in the battery location:


If you can do some machining and welding, you can also run a remote mechanical water pump...



I believe that I am familiar with that pump installation mounted in the battery tray area.

Nelson

[This message has been edited by hnthomps (edited 03-15-2018).]

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2.5
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Report this Post03-16-2018 07:46 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Seems like a lot of choices of remote pump out there, any recommendations on quality at a good price? I may be doing one someday as well.
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liv4God
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Report this Post03-16-2018 10:31 AM Click Here to See the Profile for liv4GodSend a Private Message to liv4GodEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Also in this! I have an on hold sbc swap (currently out of the country) and like the remote pump idea better than what I was working on. Where do we buy the adapters that change from pump mount flange to tubing?
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fieroguru
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Report this Post03-16-2018 08:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by hnthomps:
I believe that I am familiar with that pump installation mounted in the battery tray area.

Nelson


I am sure that you are!

 
quote
Originally posted by 2.5:
Seems like a lot of choices of remote pump out there, any recommendations on quality at a good price? I may be doing one someday as well.


You want a street duty rated pump (not a drag race only) with more than 30 gpm. There are a lot of brands and price points to pick from, but I would stick with the common brand names.


 
quote
Originally posted by liv4God:

Also in this! I have an on hold sbc swap (currently out of the country) and like the remote pump idea better than what I was working on. Where do we buy the adapters that change from pump mount flange to tubing?


All of the swaps with electric pumps that I have done, came with the pumps already. If I was to do one now, I would run a single in, single out pump up front and then use a coolant manifold or Y the hose connection at the rear. Hopefully this would reduce the electric water pump whine in the passenger compartment.

Here is just 1 example of the universal single in, single out water pump:
https://www.summitracing.co...cw-dc-8160/overview/

For the two shown above, the pump styles had removable legs (the legs bolt to the SBC at the water pump ports and then to the pump).


The bolt pattern for these legs to the pump is NOT the same as the water pump to the SBC bolt pattern, so the common threaded water pump flanges will NOT work for both the pump and the SBC. You can either tap the water pump to accept the NPT on the AN 90 degree fitting or make a new cap and thread it. For Vince's car, I used some aluminum angle to mount the pump and tapped them for the AN fittings as well:



Fitting the rear AN fitting on the block is a very, very, very, very tight fit. I ended up milling the aluminum flange to about 1/2 its thickness, then I used a die to cut the threads on the 90 AN hose connection deeper on the fitting.
Here is the stock size flange and stock 90 AN fitting:


Here is the rear one that was mostly modified - I did a little more to get about 1/8" clearance to the frame rail:


[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 03-16-2018).]

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Will
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Report this Post03-17-2018 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for WillSend a Private Message to WillEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

All of the swaps with electric pumps that I have done, came with the pumps already. If I was to do one now, I would run a single in, single out pump up front and then use a coolant manifold or Y the hose connection at the rear.


I've been saying for YEARS that a Dedenbear water header should be standard equipment for remote pump SBC Fieros.



https://www.summitracing.co...ts/ded-wh1/overview/
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fieroguru
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Report this Post03-17-2018 02:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would probably make something like this but for the SBC... just to be different.


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