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Headlight Motor Wiring by jaredaltizer
Started on: 03-24-2018 09:49 AM
Replies: 13 (218 views)
Last post by: viperine on 03-28-2018 11:50 PM
jaredaltizer
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Report this Post03-24-2018 09:49 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaredaltizerSend a Private Message to jaredaltizerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So I’m finally making an attempt to fix my headlight motors. I’ve done one before and gone through all the steps to taking apart and reassembling the actual motor, so I don’t have any questions about that. But, I am in a bit of a sticky situation. The wires connecting to the headlight relay (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-relay-r3230/3998355-P?searchTerm=bwd+relay ) have melted in the Arizona heat over the years, so now they’re all sticky and gooey and gross. It’s like they’re glued into the relay, because I can’t disconnect either of the two wires. First off, how do you guys recommend I pull them out? Second, how can I clean them safely and keep them in working, usable condition? And finally, is there anywhere that sells this connector? The one on the other side of the car is cracked and on its last legs.
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fierofool
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Report this Post03-24-2018 10:27 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That black gooey, sticky stuff isnt your melted wires or harness. It's an insulating paste that's put in there to keep water out of the relay. It's a form of dielectric grease.

For the harness plug, you can use some electric contact cleaner and likely get it off. Don't use anything that has keytones, xylene or xylol in it's ingredient. The stuff with triethane 111 is a contact cleaner that leaves no residue and is safe for plastics.

When you purchase your contact cleaner visit a nearby electronics store and pick up a couple of small tubes of dielectric grease. Not heat sink grease but dielectric grease. Tubes are much more economical than the small blister packets commonly sold at parts stores though some parts stores do carry the tubes.
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VanGTP5000
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Report this Post03-24-2018 10:45 AM Click Here to See the Profile for VanGTP5000Send a Private Message to VanGTP5000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

That black gooey, sticky stuff isnt your melted wires or harness. It's an insulating paste that's put in there to keep water out of the relay. It's a form of dielectric grease.

For the harness plug, you can use some electric contact cleaner and likely get it off. Don't use anything that has keytones, xylene or xylol in it's ingredient. The stuff with triethane 111 is a contact cleaner that leaves no residue and is safe for plastics.

When you purchase your contact cleaner visit a nearby electronics store and pick up a couple of small tubes of dielectric grease. Not heat sink grease but dielectric grease. Tubes are much more economical than the small blister packets commonly sold at parts stores though some parts stores do carry the tubes.


Wow...talk about Deja Vu!

-Van
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VanGTP5000
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Report this Post03-24-2018 10:52 AM Click Here to See the Profile for VanGTP5000Send a Private Message to VanGTP5000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

VanGTP5000

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Member since Feb 2017
 
quote
Originally posted by jaredaltizer:

So I’m finally making an attempt to fix my headlight motors. I’ve done one before and gone through all the steps to taking apart and reassembling the actual motor, so I don’t have any questions about that. But, I am in a bit of a sticky situation. The wires connecting to the headlight relay (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-relay-r3230/3998355-P?searchTerm=bwd+relay ) have melted in the Arizona heat over the years, so now they’re all sticky and gooey and gross. It’s like they’re glued into the relay, because I can’t disconnect either of the two wires. First off, how do you guys recommend I pull them out? Second, how can I clean them safely and keep them in working, usable condition? And finally, is there anywhere that sells this connector? The one on the other side of the car is cracked and on its last legs.


If you have to replace both of the headlight actuator relays...I recently bought two for $29.85 (best price around) at AutoZone. To pull out the wires you need to push them away from the tabs that are holding them in. Meaning you have to push the plug ends toward each other. Do one side at a time. The first one will be a little tricky but once it is out...pushing the second one away from the tab is easier.

Hope this helps.

-Van
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Patrick
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Report this Post03-24-2018 04:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Considering that there are two different generations of Fiero headlight motors, it would certainly be of assistance if the OP of any/all threads could at least post the year of their Fiero!
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jaredaltizer
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Report this Post03-24-2018 04:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaredaltizerSend a Private Message to jaredaltizerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


Considering that there are two different generations of Fiero headlight motors, it would certainly be of assistance if the OP of any/all threads could at least post the year of their Fiero!


My apologies, I forgot to leave my signature. It’s an ‘85 GT.
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VanGTP5000
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Report this Post03-24-2018 05:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for VanGTP5000Send a Private Message to VanGTP5000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No need to apologize. All one had to do is click on the link you supplied and it clearly stated 1985 Fiero GT.

-Van

[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 03-24-2018).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post03-24-2018 05:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by VanGTP5000:

No need to apologize. All one had to do is click on the link you supplied and it clearly stated 1985 Fiero GT.


Let me make it clear I wasn't looking for an apology. I was simply trying to emphasize the fact that basic information needs to be supplied when seeking assistance, without the need for responders to be guessing... or possibly discovering after clicking on a "link" or whatever.

 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

...it would certainly be of assistance if the OP of any/all threads could at least post the year of their Fiero!

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 03-24-2018).]

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cswillson
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Report this Post03-24-2018 05:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for cswillsonSend a Private Message to cswillsonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm having a similar problem with my 86. I have a half amp draw with the key off, no lights on and no noises. I traced it to the TAIL fuse, which when pulled stops the amp draw. I've been having trouble with the right headlight retractor. The TAIL fuse powers the retraction of the headlights.

Thanks for the comments and advice.

Edit: Duh, I'm sure this didn't make any sense to anyone. I had the forum open on two PCs and posted this response to a different discussion on the other PC which had this discussion open.

------------------
FWIW, YMMV, EIEIO
'86 SE, '95 XJ6, '73 C104

[This message has been edited by cswillson (edited 03-24-2018).]

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jaredaltizer
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Report this Post03-26-2018 12:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaredaltizerSend a Private Message to jaredaltizerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by VanGTP5000:


If you have to replace both of the headlight actuator relays...I recently bought two for $29.85 (best price around) at AutoZone. To pull out the wires you need to push them away from the tabs that are holding them in. Meaning you have to push the plug ends toward each other. Do one side at a time. The first one will be a little tricky but once it is out...pushing the second one away from the tab is easier.

Hope this helps.

-Van


Well, I got around to disassembling the motors today and everything. Looks in order. After reassembling them and putting them back in, I realized that the whole problem was being caused my a bad relay. Took me forever to figure out that a stupid little black box is causing all the problems. I tested a second one that I found in the endless amounts of crap in my garage, plugged it in, and low and behold, it works. The other relay is going straight in the trash while I will be buying a new one from Autozone. Thank you again for all of your help!
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VanGTP5000
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Report this Post03-26-2018 01:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for VanGTP5000Send a Private Message to VanGTP5000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Glad it worked out for you...happy to help!

-Van
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jaredaltizer
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Report this Post03-28-2018 05:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jaredaltizerSend a Private Message to jaredaltizerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by VanGTP5000:

Glad it worked out for you...happy to help!

-Van


One more question... do you have the part number (or link to) the relay from autozone?
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VanGTP5000
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Report this Post03-28-2018 09:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for VanGTP5000Send a Private Message to VanGTP5000Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
19965

https://www.autozone.com/el...155064_4773_0?review

Ignore where it says doesn't fit your car. It is a mistake. You can call and confirm if you like.

-Van
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Report this Post03-28-2018 11:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for viperineSend a Private Message to viperineEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Maybe I am too hopeful, but I advise against throwing the old relay away. I believe some repairs are possible with these. I know it's a long shot, but I've fixed one once before, and I wouldn't hesitate to try again. Folks act like they're troublesome, but any little part that lasts 30 years before finally calling it quits, certainly went through a lot of cycles.
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