Fellas, I have an all stock “85 Duke. My mechanic got it to run after diognosing a bad ECM. He had to snip and or cut, the wires on top of my stock throttle body!. My problem was that my old ECM was green and moldy. I now have a new ECM. I am hoping someone can send me pictures of their ‘85 Throttle (Duke) body so I can put it back to its stock GM configuration. Cordially, kevin Ps. My mechanic got it to run, but now his odd and old cobbled together ECM burnes REALLY rich🤨😠 The more pictures the better👍🤨. This will help me.
My mechanic got it to run after diognosing a bad ECM. He had to snip and or cut, the wires on top of my stock throttle body!
My mechanic got it to run, but now his odd and old cobbled together ECM burnes REALLY rich.
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This is exactly the reason why I recently posted the following Here...
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Originally posted by Patrick:
With a car of this vintage, often "the man" turns out to be totally out of his element... and it can get expensive paying someone else to work on a 30 year old car (especially if they just start throwing parts at it). I hope this works out for you.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-23-2018).]
Here is a pic of the top of my 85 duke when I rebuilt the TB. As far as I know the only wires are the ones that go to the injector and the Map sensor. Oops, I forgot about the IAC sensor on the drivers side. Edit The wire behind the hose is actually for the throttle position sensor. The Map wires aren't in the picture.
[This message has been edited by JMTUT (edited 06-23-2018).]
This is the cobbled wiring that is forcing my ritch fuel mixture. Help me put it back together in a stock configuration. Please see link to view pictures.
Fellas, As you guys can see, my mechanic cut the green wire. Then he jammed the black wire right next to it. He attached this black wire to the blue wire within the same Fiero wire loom from where the red wire cane from?! Within Pennocks Fiero Forum, can anybody help me put the wires back to where they are supposed to go! Cordially, kevin
[This message has been edited by kevin (edited 06-24-2018).]
Fellas, As my pictures shows, my mechanic snipped my throttle body green wire. He then attached [jamed] a black wire right next to it. The other end of the black wire is attached to a blue wire that is within the wire loom right under my the throttle body?🤔. If I reattach the green wire, do I take the other end of that green wire and solder it to the blue wire? WTF? Cordially, kevin
I can't find a clear picture of how it SHOULD look, but...
So many things very ODD with your setup.
RED circle - PCV line not connected YELLOW circles - looks like 2 unconnected vacuum fittings WHITE circles - two connectors hanging, and TPS sensor not connected
Fierosound, "I can't find a clear picture of how it SHOULD look, but...
So many things very ODD with your setup.
RED circle - PCV line not connected YELLOW circles - looks like 2 unconnected vacuum fittings WHITE circles - two connectors hanging, and TPS sensor not connected
I'm surprised it even runs!"
That was a picture of my TB during a rebuild. I think Kevin is referencing a different picture.
As you guys can see, my mechanic cut the green wire. Then he jammed the black wire right next to it. He attached this black wire to the blue wire within the same Fiero wire loom from where the red wire came from?!
Actually, that sounds correct...
RED wire to injector should be battery power. BLUE (green) wire to injector should be control signal (ground) from ECM. Engine wouldn't run at all otherwise.
If it's "running rich", it's for other reasons. How old is the O2 sensor?
Looks like you have 2 vacuum lines unconnected (RED arrows) EDIT: Oops - I see one goes to the EGR valve. BUT it may be connected to wrong port on TB. The other line goes to bottom of air cleaner? Check against vacuum hose diagram posted earlier.
The line with YELLOW arrow should have a PCV valve in it.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-27-2018).]
Fellas, It should be noted that my new ECM is new. My mechanic had no affiliation with my new ECM. All I’m doing at this point is putting everything back to stock. The green wire and the black wire confuses me? Any assistance? Cordially, kevin
It looks like your mechanic (poorly) rigged a secondary ground to your injector (black wire). The green wire shouldn't even be there, it should be blue all the way to the injector. The blue wire is the ground from the injector to the ECM. I have to assume there was a bad connection between the injector and where he tapped into the blue wire. Electrically, I don't think that's your problem. If the injector works, it's wired properly - if half-assed. Your car is running rich for another reason. To fix it properly, it looks like you would need a replacement connector for that injector (nothing should be jammed in there), and cut out the black wire. Connect the blue wire from the injector connector to the blue wire in the harness, solder and heat-shrink.
But that wiring won't make the car run rich. Injector is basically on/off, with timing controlled by the ECM.
It looks like your mechanic (poorly) rigged a secondary ground to your injector (black wire). The green wire shouldn't even be there, it should be blue all the way to the injector. The blue wire is the ground from the injector to the ECM.
I'd guess that the blue wire on the injector is discolored from heat and now looks green - it happens. Apparently the mechanic didn't have a piece of blue wire to extend the blue wire in the harness to the blue wire on the injector. But as I stated earlier, the engine would not run if it was "wrong". I agree he's running rich for some other reason.
[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-27-2018).]
Looking again, that may just be a long piece of green heatshrink tubing or tape over the remains of the blue wire to insulate it. I'm just not sure why he found it necessary to splice in a foot of wire unless there was rodent damage or something. Usually if there's a break in the harness you can find enough slack to just splice it.
If it's just jammed into the connector and not crimped or soldered, it won't last long. And why not splice it into the blue (green?) wire? Bad contact inside the connector? I'd still replace the connector and put the wiring back to stock just because I don't like rogue wires in my engine compartment and that shoved in wire is janky.
It's not "wrong", just messy. And fixing it won't solve the rich condition, but Kevin seems to want to make it right.
Fellas, The Fiero works wonderfully! I have to say that you guys are terrific. Why did the Duke even start and run with a disconnected TPS together with a boogered up ECM and the crazy hyjinx with the Throttle body wiring? I got a new ECM, redirected the wires (I figured out the wire sleeve color mismatch) put the ignition key, and it purred like a kitten. Thanks again! Cordially, kevin
[This message has been edited by kevin (edited 06-29-2018).]
Even tho it purrs like a kitten, you may still have problems and not know it. Using a scanner, you can see if the engine parameters are within spec when the engine is warmed up and driven over 45 MPH for a while. And even if it is in spec, the sensors, like the O2 sensor can be within, but still 'off' enough to rob mileage, that you may want to change it if it is over a few years old.
Don't worry about driving it unless it overheats or has other drivability issues, then dig deeper.
At this point, I would recommend you find and buy a Pontiac service manual for your car. I did for my first 84 Fiero and I would not give it up because I use it for my remaining 2 Fieros. I bought mine online, you may find one the same way. The reason is, you will find most mechanics do not like Fieros, and YOU will end up being your best Fiero mechanic for your car, unless there is a club near you with a mechanic that does outside work.
Crashyoung. Good and thoughtful ideas. Out here in California, we are infused in a car culture that has been legislaturely soaked with SMOG nazis for the last 30+ years😟. Therefore, I need to get my Fiero ‘SMOGED’ in a few weeks. The result is possibly having to purchase any new O2 sensor or other motor sensor.... Cordially, Kevin Ps. The Duke runs so well I might get lucky and not need any new stuff. Let’s hope.
[This message has been edited by kevin (edited 06-29-2018).]
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