Wife's '84 2.5 4-speed has been giving occasional trouble starting. Tonight, while backing into the parking spot at home, I stalled the engine. Would not start at all, but I could hear the solenoid clicking. I took my sawed-off sledge hammer handle under the car, and when I went to tap on the starter and solenoid, I noticed them moving around. Closer investigation showed that the outer/forward bolt is missing, and the starter is swinging on the inner/rear bolt. My part-time employer (FLAPS) shows numerous replacements available, with different thread diameters and pitches as well as different lengths. Do anybody know off the top of their heads what lengths and threads the '84 uses? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance - Chris

I don't know the answer but if you pulled the existing bolt out and took it to a good hardware store you can at least get the thread size. For length just poke a pencil into the hole where the missing bolt was and when it bottoms out that will get you close for length. Get a few washers just in case you over shoot.

Spoon

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Thanks for your weigh-in, Spoon. Got the long bolt pulled, took either a 14 or 15mm socket ( it was dark!), so I'm pretty sure it's going to be the 10mm-1.50 bolts we offer at work.

quote Originally posted by CSM842M4: I'm pretty sure it's going to be the 10mm-1.50 bolts we offer at work.

Keep in mind that starter mounting bolts are not the same as a regular bolt. There is a knurled area on the bolts which aligns the starter correctly.

Regular bolts will allow the starter to be mounted crooked in relation to the flywheel... which will then lead to improper meshing of the starter and flywheel/flexplate ring gear.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-21-2018).]

I believe that the starter bolts are also made from a very high strength steel. Should be a commonly available Helps item.

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quote Originally posted by Patrick: Keep in mind that starter mounting bolts are not the same as a regular bolt. There is a knurled area on the bolts which aligns the starter correctly. Regular bolts will allow the starter to be mounted crooked in relation to the flywheel... which will lead to improper meshing of the starter gear.

Yup. GM and a few others use them. And using any "normal" bolt can cause starter breakage or worse and often sooner rather than later. But If the starter holes are wrecked, very possible here, then might not help unless you get another starter.

You can get GM starter bolts at most local parts stores. OE are 114mm and 46mm long. Often in Dorman Help! packaging and both lengths in one pack. "Upgrade"/"Update" starter may require different lengths but same type are used.

Also Dukes have a bracket for the other end of the starters. Attach to starter w/ nuts on stud head motor bolts and a bolt to a block hole near by.
Duke's shacks a lot more the other engines and can work even the right bolts loose then fall out.
Many are missing because fools think they know better then GM and don't put in back after starter replacement etc.
Some have upgraded/updated and OE bracket won't fit because starter is shorter. I would try to make/mod a bracket so still have this in use on dukes.


Many have lost a starter shim too. Lost front bolt keep the shim in there because other hole is often slotted. If, more like when, you need them get from same sources as the bolts.
The slot allows you to partly install engine side bolt then install the shim(s) then install the short bolt and tighten both.
Many new/rebuild units from part stores and some others include shims and gauge but not bolts. Some starter say no shim but you should check clearance all the same.
See my Cave, Starter

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Thanks, Patrick, Dennis and ogre. Yeah, my FLAPS/part-time employer has the long-short 2-pack and shims, in stock or at the warehouse. Does NOT have the bracket, though. Going to have to source one. Would there be any benefit to adding a lockwasher under the bolt heads, or maybe the tooth-type vibration-resistant washers? Or will they just shake loose as well?

Starter Bolts are "lock washers" type and adding any other hardware can make bolts to fail locking.

Bolts want clean dry parts and torque to spec. Wash holes etc w/ brake clean as final cleaning. Do not get brake clean in your Eyes!
If you can't use torque wrench then clean the same and maybe use a little Blue locktite only on threads.

Bracket... You likely need to make one or dig thru junk yards for FWD (VIN R maybe U) or maybe truck (VINs A E) dukes.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 12-22-2018).]

Thanks again, ogre, for the heads-up on the bolts. Yeah, brake cleaner is hard on the eyes - makes a person hurt other things in response. I'm not disappointed at the prospect of having to fabricate a bracket. It won't have to be elaborate, but it WILL be custom!

Finally got around to putting starter bolts back in. Seems I had only lost HALF of the forward bolt; threads were poking out the top of the bolt hole in the block, and twisted out by hand. New bolts in place and tight, starter works like a charm. Now to find that bracket...