did anyone ever try this kit ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sc...b:g:rUgAAOSwvcJZ8u6A

i was thing of cuting one ring of the rear coil but this will be much nice
i have a v8 350 tpi in the back and the rear still high

i believe those to be like a set i bought, they wouldnt fit over the strut tube after i cut the perch off

Yes it's been done many times before. You can get them even cheaper if you don't care about the color:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FO...100623%26rk%3D1%26rk t%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D381863702835%26itm%3D381863696571%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

Do you think the rear not gonna be to heavy for those spring in the kit

FieroGuru makes a kit for Fieros....I believe he has different size tubes to fit different struts, also. Check with him!



Here's a link: https://fieroguruperformance.com/

[This message has been edited by cvxjet (edited 01-21-2020).]

You can use the perches from that kit and the hats but the springs are probably very stiff and short for your liking. I just buy another set of 12" #300lb springs.

How much did you pay for the 12 inch spring

Under $200 for the Springs. You can choose any rate you want. I find that anything over 300lb is too stiff for my town roads.

https://www.amazon.ca/SOUTH...id=1579794313&sr=8-1

well i try the kit and it was ok on one side but **** on the other side ... one side was lower from the other 1 inch total i try to drive like this and it was bad so took all this out and put the oem coil back in but i found that they are already been cut !

with the coil over kit on the strut was 4 inch loose before touching the coil so when i was driving the coil come loose when i hit some road bumb ,,, really bad idea in my opinion haha

i might try to cut a turn on the spring again but i thing the srping is gonna be loose on the strut without the weight sit on so do you think its gonna make the same thing with road bump ?

i found the rear very high compare to oem fiero and the srping are already cut so that weird

I did the coil over conversion similar to the pic by FIEROALL using 12" springs. The part I don't like is that when the car is lifted or bounces hard, the coil comes out of the upper collar. The spring can even ride up on the threaded sleeve and possibly get damaged before the spring settles in each collar. My question is, what can be done to prevent the strut from opening past the free length of the spring. In my case 12".

This is a pretty simple thing to do without buying a kit. Just take a look at this link Rear Coilovers How To. I did mine with 300lb 10" springs. I will be moving to a QA1 350lb 10" high travel spring next. I have never had a problem with my spring coming off the perch.

edit...i do need to add that the buying of a kit i was referring to was the ebay one. You do have options, you can build your own or purchase a fieroguru's product.

[This message has been edited by Spadesluck (edited 05-22-2020).]

quote Originally posted by rubyredfiero: I did the coil over conversion similar to the pic by FIEROALL using 12" springs. The part I don't like is that when the car is lifted or bounces hard, the coil comes out of the upper collar. The spring can even ride up on the threaded sleeve and possibly get damaged before the spring settles in each collar. My question is, what can be done to prevent the strut from opening past the free length of the spring. In my case 12".

Some coilovers have a dust boot like the original struts had.
They'd keep the coil in line with the upper collar.

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My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

You can install something called a 'helper spring' on each strut.

Hyperco CS100
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hyc-s0072


You'd also need a coupling spacer for each

https://eibach.com/us/i-100...coupling-spacer.html

The helper spring spends most of its life in full compression but if you lift the car and the strut extends beyond the spring, the helper spring expands and takes up the slack.

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Anything I might say is probably worth what you paid for it, so treat it accordingly!

Dave

www.ltlfrari.com

There are a few things that go into causing this issue as well as several options to address.

Spring rate, desired ride height, and orientation of upper strut hat all can help or hurt this issue. Generally speaking, stiffer springs, lower stance, and the strut hat in the stock location will make the issue worse (amount of gap at full droop).

With the stut hat in the stock location (bushing is below the strut tower), the bushing boss area is normally built up to keep the spring centered. With this setup, as long as the droop and spring gap is less than 1", the spring will always self right when loaded. This is a picture of the built up area around the bushing to center the spring.


In some applications it is desirable to flip the strut hat (this gives you more available suspension travel when lowered, but it needs to be a fastback or an 88 for clearance above the strut towers). One of the advantages of the flipped strut hat, is it reduces the droop distance 1", which helps minimize any excessive gap.

In flipped hat orientation, you still need to keep the spring centered, so I use similar spring caps as shown above. The issue with them is the centering flange is only about 3/8" long, so if the spring gap is more than that, the top of the spring can hit the strut shaft and might not always self center. The easy fix for it is to drill a hole in the spring cap and wire tie the spring to the cap. Then at full droop the spring is lifted off the lower perch (where it will always self center) and stays seated to the shorter top perch.


I have seen people use the spring cap with the strut hat in the stock position (bushing below the strut tower), but I don't advise doing that. That has the cap sitting on the vertical bushing tube which wan't intended to take that kind of load. That edge is also sharp and over time can cut into the aluminum cap. With the cap used as I have shown, the load is better distributed to the strut hat plate.

You can also go with longer softer springs to pre-load the coilovers, but that typically isn't done as it takes more trial and error to get the right rate at the desired ride height.

Helper springs also work, but add $100+ to the cost of the coilovers that most people are trying to accomplish at the lowest cost possible.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 05-22-2020).]