I think the 2.77 gear ratio would be the only way to go and have a useful 1st gear. The 2.77 final drive has a nice cruising speed of 70 MPH at 2000 RPM (and crazy theoretical top speed). The tall gearing of the 2.77 would also offset the 4.48 first gear. Here are a few analysis screen shots to help explain and visualize.
I agree that the 2.77 final drive would be nice, but it is only available in the 6T70, not the 6T75.
The transmission cases are different enough that you can't just swap them. We have a 6T70 and another 6T75 to see if we can build a beefed up 6T70 with the 2.77 final drive using as many interchangable parts from the 6T75. It is on the to-do list, but I am not sure when that will happen. Right now we are just focused on putting miles on the 6T75 that is in the car.
Can the I agree that the 2.77 final drive would be nice, but it is only available in the 6T70, not the 6T75.
Could the Ford 6F55 final drive be swapped into the 6T75??? The final drive ratios available with GM's 6T75 were in SUVs with large diamater tires. The MKS (and Taurus) with the ecoboost has the 2.77 final drive meant to be used with a smaller diameter tire (25.9") that is more in par with the Fiero.
"The clutches on the 6F-55 transmission feature high-energy friction materials that can handle higher loads and shift energies over the long term, so customers will experience smoother shifts.The ring gear on the 6F-55 is increased to 41.5 mm compared with 31.5 mm on the 6F-50 to handle the increased torque of the EcoBoost Engine. The final drive ratios of 2.77:1 in the Lincoln MKS and 3.16:1 in the Lincoln MKT were chosen for optimum performance and fuel economy and confidently deliver improved responsiveness."
[This message has been edited by Lonster (edited 05-06-2013).]
Everything is still running great. Thought I would have a 1/4 mile video to post but I got rained out.... Probably a good thing since I had the radiator cap blow off during a wide open blast shortly after the drag strip rainout. Coolant went over the windshield and it took 2 gallons to top it off. The radiator cap was captured in the headlight bucket. Do I need to wire tie it? Anyone have that happen before? Not sure if it was slowly working its way off or happened all at once.
Hope to have a drag strip or dyno video to post soon.
Over 2000 miles and running strong.
Dan
[This message has been edited by Dan86GT (edited 09-06-2013).]
Everything is still running great. Thought I would have a 1/4 mile video to post but I got rained out.... Probably a good thing since I had the radiator cap blow off during a wide open blast shortly after the drag strip rainout. Coolant went over the windshield and it took 2 gallons to top it off. The radiator cap was captured in the headlight bucket. Do I need to wire tie it? Anyone have that happen before? Not sure if it was slowly working its way off or happened all at once.
Hope to have a drag strip or Dino video to post soon.
Over 2000 miles and running strong.
Dan
I have never had a problem with the cap working loose. It is hard to get to and maybe was not secured all the way? Usually the problem with the cap is that the part number in the parts stores books are wrong and they leak pressure.
I have 3 (three) caps in my swap. BUT only one of them actually works. The front cap on the radiator is 20# and I capped off the "overflow" hose barb so it can not vent air back into the system as it cools. The stock LS4 has a radiator cap on the water pump and I modified it so it does not function as a radiator cap. The one cap (out of the three) that works is on the surge tank. It is the only functional cap because it is the highest location in the cooling system. Theoretically only "air" purges out of it. That surge tank radiator cap is a 16# cap.
My LS4 swap has the stock LS4 coolant fill cap, but the housing had the vent welded shut - so it no longer vents. The only other cap in my system is a 16 lb radiator cap that has the stock vent tube hooked up to the stock fiero overflow tank. I did have an issue with the passenger head light snagging on the vent hose, but I was able to wire tie it out of the way. Have you check the clearance between the radiator cap and the passenger head light to see if it could be tapping the cap as it opens/closes and backing it off gradually?
Here's some interesting information on the XTS Vsport's transmission: the 6T80
quote
Completing the drivetrain for the XTS mounting was a specific challenge. There was no transverse equivalent to the high-torque-capacity 8-speed used with the new rear-drive CTS Vsport or even a transmission equivalent to the 6L90 6-speed coupled to the CTS V8.
Instead, GM's highest-capacity front-drive transaxle available, the 6T75, was beefed up internally for increased torque and higher duty cycle. It now carries a 6T80 designation and features a stiffer case to better hold gear alignment. The shift cable mounting was redesigned and the torque converter was upgraded, and there is a new converter housing mounting interface specific for the twin-turbo engine.
Bill Peterson, lead development engineer for the XTS Vsport, said with the internal modifications the 6T80 can handle the direct-injection twin-turbo V6, SAE rated at 410 hp/369 lb·ft (306 kW/500 N·m) throughput. This compares with the twin-turbo used in the CTS Vsport that is SAE rated at 420 hp/430 lb·ft (313 kW/583 N·m).
By comparison, the XTS's base 3.6-L V6 produces 305 hp (337 kW) and 265 lb·ft (355 N·m) and is paired with the 6T70.
The XTS Vsport has an all-wheel-drive system, an Audi-like configuration that is designed to mitigate the torque steer associated with a front-drive. It is used with an all-mechanical Haldex AWD coupling for front-rear torque distribution into an electronically controlled limited-slip rear differential.
There is no defined torque split in this system. It is physically capable of transferring up to 1000 N·m (736 lb·ft) of propshaft torque to the rear, which is double the engine's maximum torque output. On a normal launch (all wheels on dry pavement), the front-rear percentage split is about 50-50. Under dynamic conditions, the transfer is based on inputs from vehicle sensors to maximize driving control.
The car is still running great. Winter finally ended (I think) and have been driving the car for a week now.
Nothing exciting to report. Transmission is running flawlessly. Going to focus on the suspension for now. I have a set of coil overs on it that are either shot or just not designed right for the job.
Go with the Koni coil over for the rear. Adjustable struts w/ the ability to tune the ride height, and rebound pressure. $800-900 at Aurart Motorsports.
How is the transmission holding up? Any fuel economy numbers?
No fuel economy numbers yet... I really don't drive it for economy. I can see the fuel gauge moving when I drive it. I would guess fuel economy would be slightly better than an LS2 corvette. Ironically when I am not driving the fiero I drive a VW TDI which averages 45 mpg...
QA1's are popular and nicely adjustable but not cheap.
Got rained out the last time I tried to make it to the strip. I am honestly a little gun shy to push it down the strip until I can get the suspension under control. It seems to have become more unpredictable. Maybe my expectations are unrealistic... Does anyone have a car that handles like a modern sports car?
Koni doesn't make coil overs for the Fiero. You have to DIY or buy some from a shop like West Coast FIero.
Stock cradle rubber can do weird things. Get rid of it... got with aluminum (prefered) or poly.
I'm working on weld-in sleeves to convert Fiero control arms to spherical bearings. They aren't any harsher than urethane (per guys who have run other cars with spherical bearings: http://www.corner-carvers.c...owthread.php?t=47287 ) and provide less binding/friction, better maintainability and greater handling precision. I've done the design work to make the sleeves compatible with the control arms. I'm having trouble finding a good sealed spherical bearing that will last a long time.
Stock cradle rubber can do weird things. Get rid of it... got with aluminum (prefered) or poly.
The engine is hard mounted. I figured I needed something between the engine in the chassis. Do most people hard mount the engine and the cradle? Seems like that would be rough.