Just wanted to pass on a good maintenance tip (Page 1/2)
Kitskaboodle JUL 02, 08:28 PM
Years ago I had a conversation with a fellow Fiero club member about brake fluid and how horrible it is. (he converted his Fiero - which he races to silicon fluid) Anyways, he told me about a PM practice he has always followed: refreshing brake fluid and how to do it. After he explained what he does I was “sold” on it and from that day I have always followed this PM on all my cars.
Here it is…..
Every time I have to do anything in my engine compartment (oil change, cap & rotor, air cleaner re-oiling, etc.) I do a PM on my brake fluid as well.
All you need is an old soup can, a cheap Dollar Tree turkey baster and a big container of DOT 3 brake fluid. What I do is put a few grease rags underneath the master cylinder, take off the m/c cover, suck out as much brake fluid as possible (be careful not to take out so much fluid that you allow air to get introduced into the holes at the bottom of the resovior) then refill the m/c to the correct level & replace the cover.
The reason why this is a good idea is that brake fluid is corrosive and eats away at aluminum and dissolves rubber seals. I have seen many peoples cars at car shows, even Fiero club events and I’m amazed at how many people are “ignorant” about their brake fluid getting dirty and they don’t think they need to address its dirtiness. Filthy, dirty, chocolatey brake fluid doesn’t do your brake system any favors.
And the good news is this costs very little compared to the benefits of cleaner brake fluid and longer brake system component life.
Lastly, many might say that I’m not purging the whole brake system of old, dirty fluid but this is easy to do, costs very little and does remove maybe 50% of the dirty brake fluid in the system and that’s better than not at all.
Kit

[This message has been edited by Kitskaboodle (edited 07-02-2023).]

Patrick JUL 03, 02:04 PM

I've done this in the past... and thanks for the reminder, I should be doing this again with several vehicles.

One additional tip, do this procedure with the clutch reservoir as well.
Kitskaboodle JUL 03, 03:49 PM
Yes, the clutch cylinder also. I forgot to mention it.
Kit
richard in nc JUL 03, 04:25 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:


I've done this in the past... and thanks for the reminder, I should be doing this again with several vehicles.

One additional tip, do this procedure with the clutch reservoir as well.



i love my vacumn bleeder.
Vintage-Nut JUL 03, 09:04 PM

quote
by richard in nc
i love my vacumn bleeder.



Me too! I used to suck the brake fluid from the reservoir with a 'turkey baster' years ago, but the handheld vacuum pump with the special receptacle to hold the old fluid is soooo easy to do!

To me, I have maintenance logs of all my vehicles and one column is brake/clutch fluid.
I 'change' the fluid of ALL of my vehicle reservoirs at the same time every two years.

When I'm replacing brake pads/shoes, then I'll flush the lines.....

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 07-04-2023).]

Vintage-Nut JUL 04, 03:30 PM
This thread made me to rethink about my brake fluid routine as I stated.......

Since I have particular maintenance logs of all my vehicles which are made in Microsoft Excel; I'm changing this task now 'Thanks' for Kitskaboodle's "Good Maintenance Tip"!

We know purging the whole brake system of old fluid is the best, but many like me don't because "the time" as purging the system means removing four wheels....

I have six vehicles to maintain, and my maintenance logs have scheduled 'blocks' of tasks which one chore is "Rotate Tires".

The '88 GT log doesn't have this chore as the front/rear tires are different, however has the same "✓Brake Pads" column like other logs.

SO, I'm now adding a new column called "Purge Brake Fluid" in the scheduled 'block' which includes "✓Brake Pads" in ALL of my logs.

Every two years "Brake Fluid" column is now retitled "Purge Clutch Fluid"

Thanks again Kitskaboodle and the new perspective!
theogre JUL 04, 05:10 PM
⚠️ Sorry but "Changing" B-fluid that way does Very Little to Nothing but Pushed by "Experts" w/o a clue and others believe that as Gospel...

Worse often give very bad data so Kits believe crap like:

quote
Originally posted by Kitskaboodle:
The reason why this is a good idea is that brake fluid is corrosive and eats away at aluminum and dissolves rubber seals.

Glycol base B-fluid is:
1. Not corrosive but will "eat" paint and more finishes.
2. Will Not eat metal or rubber.

Will "absorb" crap and water to Protect metal parts. The fluid is so hydrophilic tries to "encapsulate" the water so that never gets at the metal. Problem is Most systems are So Wet the fluid can't stop it.

Will also Lube the system for same reason. DOT5 Silicone B-fluid will Not do that and Causes big problems when used in systems that design to have DOT3, 4 or 5.1. So When anyone said "I use DOT5 in cars" is just proof the "Expert" is a Moron.

Oh you may See Metal particles etc floating or at bottom of MC Tank but isn't Eaten by B-fluid. Is cause by Old Wet B-fluid that can't lube the parts right or absorb more water and that water then attack the system.
So As soon as you "Change" the B-fluid like this, the New Fluid just get "Wet" in Minutes, dirty in few hours driving.

If you watch w/ cover open after doing this, very quickly see "smoke" coming out of ports to MC bore. This is Wet Fluid being Drawn Out of the ports because New Fluid is "Dry" and "Chemical Law" makes the water in it to =ize Very Fast. But Don't watch this for very long because the Fluid Will Pull Water right out of the Air too. If Cap is Off or have seal problems then the Fluid can be Dangerous Wet in Hours. This Is Why you use New Bottles w/ Factory Seals for bleeding etc.

If you have Fluid Moisture Testers, unlikely, New Fluid will Test Wet very Fast too. Often In A few Hours Max even when you don't drive or even start the car. Very Few private or Dealer Shop have good moisture testing. Cheap testers sold thru Eflay etc are often crap and don't work OOB or after first testing. Many "cheap" methods are not "universal" so need right "tool" for DOTx you have.

Unless the system is "empty" after major brake work, you Can't get enough New Fluid in just by Refilling the Tank or even by Bleeding.
More so w/ "Fiero" rear calipers because they hold almost same Fluid Volume as the MC tank. Worse w/ Small MC Tank to clear Sunroof Glass.
See https://web.archive.org/web...cast.net/~fierocave/ Brake Fluid

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Vintage-Nut JUL 04, 11:38 PM
Brake Fluid Test Strips
A diagnostic litmus paper test used to determine the quality of the brake fluid include WATER and are designed to work with specific types of brake fluid, such as DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5. Look for test strips that are known for their accuracy and reliability and yes, always check the expiration date of the test strips before use.

The Fiero use DOT 3 or DOT 4 Brake Fluid (which are glycol-based formulas)
When comparing DOT 3 vs. DOT 4:
DOT 4 absorbs moisture faster than DOT 3 but DOT 4 will boil at higher temps than DOT 3
If you produce more heat due to faster speeds, use DOT 4 and should be changed more regularly then DOT 3

[This message has been edited by Vintage-Nut (edited 07-04-2023).]

theogre JUL 05, 01:08 AM
Test Strips can help. Some shops use these.

The type I use actually "boils" some fluid and most shops Don't have.
Like
https://www.albadiagnostics.../brake-fluid-tester/ (First made by them then "sold" to others like OTC.)
https://www.toolsource.com/...-tester-p-89742.html

Don't have directions at hand but should pull fluid in small "can," test, then dump. Not test in the MC tank as shown on many sites.

Have Higher $ testers w/ printing builtin, BTooth, etc.

Cheap Electric Testers often have problems even tho may seem to work.
Vintage-Nut JUL 05, 04:21 PM

quote
https://www.toolsource.com/...-tester-p-89742.html


Very nice shop tool and only $480 plus shipping....

For the DIY:
Phoenix Systems 8006-B Double-Ended Brake Fluid + Coolant Test Strips (15 foil wrapped test strips), 1 Pack @ $22
https://www.amazon.com/Phoe...83932699598965&psc=1