Rebuilding an engine, where do I start? (Page 2/2) zkhennings MAY 31, 04:38 PM I have 3 CDI torque wrenches (they make them for Snap On) one is a dial gauge style for 0-250inlbs, one is click style 10-75ftlbs, and one is click style 30-250ftlbs. This spread will let you do just about anything on a car. A healthy overlap is nice so you are not using your wrenches near the ends of their range which can get out of spec quick. I peruse Ebay and get used or new open box ones for not a lot of money, and then I have CDI/Snap On recalibrate them, it is a $45 service per wrench. 82-T/A [At Work] JUN 01, 07:46 AM quote Originally posted by zkhennings: I have 3 CDI torque wrenches (they make them for Snap On) one is a dial gauge style for 0-250inlbs, one is click style 10-75ftlbs, and one is click style 30-250ftlbs. This spread will let you do just about anything on a car. A healthy overlap is nice so you are not using your wrenches near the ends of their range which can get out of spec quick. I peruse Ebay and get used or new open box ones for not a lot of money, and then I have CDI/Snap On recalibrate them, it is a $45 service per wrench. Thanks! I appreciate it. Do you think this is a decent one to get, is it the one you have? https://www.amazon.com/CDI-...orque/dp/B002LA1EDO/ It says 30 to 250 ft-lbs... should be more than enough for anything I'm assembling on the engine ? quote Originally posted by armos: You could set up an experiment to check if your click-style torque wrench is registering the same (or anywhere close) to where your other torque wrench(es?) do. That doesn't prove which one is wrong, though. You could set up some controlled known torque on a breaker bar (maybe your daughter could stand on it) and see if the torque wrench agrees with what it should be. As for buying a new one, I don't have any particular opinion of one to recommend. I think when I buy a new one, I'm going to test my old one to see if it's even remotely correct. It's possible I just didn't know / understand how to use the setting wheel. It's been... wow... 20 years since I last used it when I ripped the threads out of an engine block. quote Originally posted by Spadesluck: You should have two torque wrenches, Ft lbs and IN lbs. The ft lbs should be a beefier type for those head bolts etc. Beyond that no big deal. I have always used the "click" kind myself just because I already had them. I suppose if I were to be in the market for new ones I would get a digital kind. Not sure if one is better than the other though. That's interesting, when would I typically use the IN-Lbs? Do you have an example of something like that, perhaps for a water pump? sleek fiero JUN 01, 10:31 AM 82-T/A ; If you look at the torque chart in your shop manual you will see both inch lbs and foot lbs. Generally larger bolts will be ft lbs . And now lets get more complicated as some bolts can be stretch bolts that you would torque to a small basic value and then go back and torque x number of degrees. These bolts are designed to only be used once then replace them. i was wondering if it was this type that broke when you were torquing them and not your torque wrenches fault. sleek 82-T/A [At Work] JUN 01, 10:51 AM quote Originally posted by sleek fiero: 82-T/A ; If you look at the torque chart in your shop manual you will see both inch lbs and foot lbs. Generally larger bolts will be ft lbs . And now lets get more complicated as some bolts can be stretch bolts that you would torque to a small basic value and then go back and torque x number of degrees. These bolts are designed to only be used once then replace them. i was wondering if it was this type that broke when you were torquing them and not your torque wrenches fault. sleek It's possible... but it was the threats that ripped out of the block on one (on my V6), and then on the one before that, it snapped the bolt off... which was an 85 2m4. I'm going back to my storage unit this weekend, so I'll take a look and get the tool and spend more time getting parts. Australian JUN 09, 04:07 AM Restore whole cradle paint it again as prone to rusting anyway. 82-T/A [At Work] JUN 11, 01:13 PM quote Originally posted by Australian: Restore whole cradle paint it again as prone to rusting anyway. Yeah, definitely will. The cradle looks pretty solid, no rust on the cradle portion except for a few spots of surface rust... but regardless, the thing is completely filthy. Once we pull the motor, I plan to wheel it out into the grass and we're going to pressurewash the hell out of the engine compartment and engine cradle, and then sand it down, do any welding / reinforcing that's needed, and then prime and paint it with black epoxy-paint. TheDigitalAlchemist JUN 13, 10:17 AM Haven't read all the replies, but maybe buy another Fiero (or 2.5 engine) and rebuild THAT? if the current engine is "ok", it might be better doing it the way I mentioned, if you have the space and $ - you can probably find a 'headed to the scrapyard Fiero for under 1k...and you might end up with a second very nice Fiero in the end - (you can do things on that one that you don't need to do on the one you have,m such as "remove body panels and paint"...