Just wanted to pass on a good maintenance tip (Page 2/2) jelly2m8 JUL 06, 04:20 AM If I have to check or replace my brake fluid every time I change oil, Ima sell that POS. theogre JUL 06, 09:34 AM quote Originally posted by jelly2m8: If I have to check or replace my brake fluid every time I change oil, Ima sell that POS. Checking it should be done often and every vehicle you have. So if is a small leak problem won't empty the tank. Any weeping can find easy is an issue to fix but... Fiero and other where P-brake is part of Disk calipers have more leak points. ABS vehicles have more places to have leaking problems too. Opening, adding, or replacing is not needed every time because most MC now have plastic tanks you can see thru w/o opening. Unlike many older vehicles have All In One Cast Iron units to must remove the metal top to check level... And often do not have to fill tank full because top seal can suck down to fill "air space" between fluid lever and top for lower level for normal pad/shoe wear. If you top up the tank, make very sure you remove some before you retract the pistons before changing pads etc. Or can "blow the top" and spill B-fluid on everything near the MC. Vintage-Nut JUL 06, 01:11 PM quote by jelly2m8: If I have to check or replace my brake fluid every time I change oil, Ima sell that POS. Perhaps you're missing the point of the thread? Kitskaboodle started this thread because brake fluid is often forgotten on the maintenance list....... Since Brake Fluid is Hygroscopic (absorbs water) we definitely don't want brake fluid contaminated with moisture which can also cause rust to form over time. Kitskaboodle's tip is to "change" the fluid at the reservoir which "that's better than not at all" and will disperse any water through the entire system. The Best Practice is to "Purge" and replace all of the old brake fluid which also remove suspended sediments. A good interval is around 30k miles and NEVER go more than 2 years to remove the moisture. theogre JUL 06, 05:35 PM quote Originally posted by Vintage-Nut: Kitskaboodle started this thread because brake fluid is often forgotten on the maintenance list....... I do "Get it" but Top Post have a Bad Source and Data to fix the problem. Summery: Careful empty, cleaning, and refill the Brake/Clutch MC Tank to fix Wet Dirty System... Then Many will believe even if doesn't post. quote Originally posted by Vintage-Nut: The Best Practice is to "Purge" and replace all of the old brake fluid which also remove suspended sediments. A good interval is around 30k miles and NEVER go more than 2 years to remove the moisture. Sadly this is bad data too even for old cars. Many New models have "Lifetime" B-fluid that can easily last 10+ years in normal operation and can't get same fluid thru the aftermarket. If you think a car has wet/dirty fluid... This is where you use Test Strips, "boil" tool, etc. Note that the "Boil" tools can actually boils the fluid but small amount "hidden" inside the tip. You can't see it happen or feel get warm unless test sample "can" is very small and test several times. Example: Test done in 2020 in https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...HTML/144456.html#p10 1. Wet Boil Spec is B-fluid ~ 5% Water Max. (3% or 4% Max depending on DOTx used.) Most Street Vehicles, B-fluid will last a long time before have enough water to see "Wet Boil" temp as rated for DOTx you have. B-fluid will protect the system for Many Years to Decades w/ some water in it. But Some Vehicles will see that much water and way worse like driving off-road or very old cars....... 2. If a system has Way Wet Fluid like Boil Tool says is below Wet Spec to 212°F/100°C that plan water boils then "Purging"/"Flushing" by refilling MC or bleeding to see clear fluid is often still not enough to help. Because Wet Dirty Fluid clings to everything and new fluid gets very wet even tho maybe look cleaner. If that happens "Purging" by Repleted Bleeding can take days or longer because have to wait some time to =ize water between bleeding ops. Just Read the test link post carefully... Because I have run a Quart Minimum of DOT4 for Years just to bleed my system and plus empty the rears from rebuild them and still DOT4 is lower then Wet Spec. This systems have had Gallons of DOT4 B-fluid "flushing" the thing over 20+ years I've owned it. Is above DOT3 Wet Spec and stopped bothering as long as stays above that. You can't Empty everything unless you like Bench Bleeding the MC every time that causes other problems to mess w/ line flare ends. Real Flushing of brake systems is a lot more time and labor even by Real Experts just for new systems that got flooded for whatever reason. Worse when have "Fiero" rear calipers and others w/ holding a lot of fluid. Run some kind of Flush agent may work for lines but not seals in MC, Calipers, etc. Plus can't get flush agent out of them easy so may take a very long time to dry out even when the pistons are out. That's ignoring ABS "box" and other parts may not be "flush able" on old or new models. Combi Valve in Fiero and others will likely hate flushing agents. Vintage-Nut JUL 06, 07:24 PM You can leave your Fiero's brake fluid in for 10+ years if you want, however I'll keep my two-year 'wet' interval as it has been working perfectly for decades.