|
Preparing my Fiero for an engine swap (Page 3/23) |
|
86.4SPD.GT
|
JUN 10, 10:32 PM
|
|
I did a quick search (use google and anything you want to know with the word "fiero" added in) and it seems that "Chrysler Industrial Red from Duplicolor" is the closest match that many have found. Maybe someone else has the exact information you need but I figured I would at least provide you with an option.(HTH)
|
|
|
longjonsilver
|
JUN 19, 12:56 PM
|
|
|
|
longjonsilver
|
JUN 20, 07:31 AM
|
|
Does anybody know what this is on this 86(?) GT? Do i need this for my 3800sc swap?
jon------------------ I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun! 3800 SC swap to come!
|
|
|
jaredmurray88
|
JUN 20, 09:46 AM
|
|
That's just a blower to keep the alternator cool they put on the v6 cars. Most people just junk them since they really don't serve much of a purpose to begin with and for a swap just adds dead weight.
|
|
|
longjonsilver
|
JUN 21, 04:16 PM
|
|
|
|
longjonsilver
|
JUN 21, 04:28 PM
|
|
|
|
longjonsilver
|
JUL 04, 08:57 AM
|
|
i installed the GT aero trim and the rocker panels. i didn't use the metal track that bolts to the skin panels or the reinforcement for the frame under the rocker. i want light weight! i also painted the black parts again.
jon
------------------ I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun! 3800 SC swap to come!
|
|
|
Jncomutt
|
JUL 04, 10:10 AM
|
|
Depending how involved you want to get in this, I chose to rewire my 84 as an 87. Yes, this means pulling out the full interior and dash,etc. This allowed me the better 87/88 headlight setup, as well as the C500 in the 'proper' place. There are many differences, but I feel it was worth it to be on the more 'standard' wiring.
------------------ | 1984 3800 Turbo / F23 5speed | [This message has been edited by Jncomutt (edited 07-04-2018).]
|
|
|
CJB118
|
JUL 04, 11:36 AM
|
|
Regarding the C500, you should plan on using what you have in the photo. I recently purchased one in similar condition to use for my swap. Disassemble all 3 parts of the connector. Take the part that carries the engine wiring, and pry the plastic locking gate out from the side of the housing. Using a tiny screwdriver, unlock each terminal from it's slot, and pull it back out of the housing using the stub of the wire remnant. Soak the housing and gate in a strong soapy water solution overnight. Using pipe cleaners and some mineral oil, work to remove all of the sticky black weatherproofing goop from each terminal slot, and a toothbrush for the outsides. Once the housing is clean, inspect it thoroughly for any cracks or heat damage. You can purchase new terminals from EFI Connection, along with a good crimping tool, and reassemble the terminals and wires back into the housing using pinout charts, available on the Sinister Performance website. If you try to solder new wires to the stubs you have, you still have to do this entire disassembly procedure, because soldering without disassembling will damage the surrounding wires and the housing, and your finished product will still contain the old, loose, possibly melted terminals from 1984. Reassembling the C500 uses only 2 standard Delphi metri-pack male terminals, the 280 size and the 480 size. The numbers refer to width of the mating surface, the 280 is 2.8mm wide and the 480 is 4.8mm wide. The other standard sizes used in the metri-pack line are the 120 and the 630. To assemble the wires and terminals, you will need a crimper that works on wires from 22 gauge low amp sensor wires, up to 10 gauge high amp voltage feeds. Whatever you spend on a crimper at this stage will be rewarded, because your wires can be trimmed and terminated to the exact length needed for your swap, and there will be a lot of work for that tool. Soldering the terminal is optional, some will recommend you do this, but my approach was to use all fresh wire, carefully clean all connector housings, reuse all TPA locks (the plastic items that snap in/on to the connector after all wires are in place) and weather pack seals (the rubber gaskets that seal the terminal housings), and use all new terminals from sinister. My car is never going to be driven in nasty weather again, so it will suffice. If you find a donor drivetrain for your swap, the "service number" on the ECU label determines most of the wire placement, size and color for the swap harness. The cross reference charts are on Sinister's website. . SINISTER PERFORMANCE . EFI CONNECTION
[This message has been edited by CJB118 (edited 07-04-2018).]
|
|
|
longjonsilver
|
JUL 04, 02:08 PM
|
|
Thanks CJB118. i pulled the C500 in the photo from the junkyard, but i think i will actually use the one on my car, because the plastic of the junkyard one looks a little crispy, but it will help me figure out the wiring. Your writeup of how to disassemble the C500 and pull the pins is very good. i will make good use of it. i installed rally gauges and the 120 MPH speedo cluster in my car today and had to figure out the wiring and do the soldering, as my crimper could not make it into the tiny space available above my steering column. Also thanks for the link to the wiring of the donor cars. i probably will get a Series 2 SC motor. blessings and thanks again jon------------------ I'm the original owner of a white ' 84 2M4 purchased Dec 10, 1983 from Pontiac. Always garaged, no rust, 4-wheel drifts are fun! 3800 SC swap to come!
|
|
|
|