Rescuing my dads old Fiero GT 1987 (Page 4/23)
tshark OCT 03, 06:51 PM
Make sure you clean the debris from under the cowl.
fierofool OCT 03, 10:00 PM
That plastic cowl cover can be removed but to do it correctly, you will need to remove that receiver-drier and take out the fan motor and the resistor next to it to be sure you get all the debris out of the ventilation system. That's the area where the fires start and they can't be extinguished quickly. They usually end up destroying the car.

I notice that part of the shroud around the fan is missing. That reduces cooling efficiency. If you can find another Fiero, I believe all year fan shrouds are the same. Motors on the 84 is different, but I think the shroud is the same.

The radios I linked to were used in all the Pontiacs in the years listed. Bonneville, Grand Prix, Firebird, Grand Am, Montana Van and Sunbird. I think the only difference in those used in the Chevrolet lineup was the color of the display and they didn't have Pontiac molded into the face plate. But I would put my effort toward making the car roadworthy and safe before other amenities.

[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 10-03-2017).]

Repulsiv OCT 05, 09:47 AM
But can I remove the plastic cowl cover without breaking the AC ? ..I will read up a bit about it befoire trying it

About the cooling fan, what part is missing ? is there any picture of how it is supposed to look like ?

I have ordered engine oil, oil filter, battery adapters (for converting "european poles" to american sidepoles) and 10 liters of concentrated glycol..

other things on my list that I will order soon is

6x sparkplugs
1x air filter
1x fuel filter
1x oil pressure sensor
1x oil pessure sensor connector

..And ofcourse 4 tyres, I have reserved two 205/60R15 and two 225/60R15, just have to remove all wheels so I can put them in the saab and have the tyres changed on them..

I already have brake fluid since I rebuilt the brakes on the SAAB and bought too much, so I have one unopened 1l canister DOT4 fluid.

..That is the plan right now, I do not want to driuve the car to the yearly inspection without changing tyres, oil and filter, the rest can be done after.

Btw, how about the gearbox ? is ther any change interval on the oil there ? would it be a good idea to change it at the same time maybe ?


..I also have to see if my dad have been able to find the registration papers, because I cannot get an insurance before I own it.. (would be nice if he found the spare keys too..)

[This message has been edited by Repulsiv (edited 10-05-2017).]

tshark OCT 05, 10:37 AM
Yes, the cowl can be removed without touching the AC...but, you have to remove the wipers. I believe that Fierofool was commenting on the AC as regards the blower motor and heater resistor. I removed the resistor from the front, and cleaned out the blower from inside, without touching the AC, but I dropped a screw, and my hand is almost small enough.

DOT4 brake fluid? I thought it was DOT3.
tshark OCT 05, 10:40 AM
Oh, and the radiator fan cowl is broken at the support by the coolant overflow tank.
fierofool OCT 05, 12:13 PM
Like tshark says. The shroud around the radiator fan is missing a section from the upper mounting bolt, around by the recovery tank. The shroud should fully encircle the fan's circumference.

The resistor can be removed without breaking open the AC. I think maybe the fan can also be removed, too. In fact, I remember doing that on one of my cars. You can't get to everything by removing the cowl cover. Save the push in fasteners. You'll need them to compare to replacements. When replacing the upper screws directly beneath the windshield, put a liberal amount of RTV sealant around the holes to prevent water penetration.

DOT 3 fluid is the recommended clutch and brake fluid, but DOT 4 is acceptable. Never use DOT 5.

When you replace the plugs, don't just pull them from the box and install them. Check the gap on them. Be sure they're gapped at .045 inch, or some say you can gap them up to .050 inch. I personally set mine at .047 inch. Use the AC plugs recommended on the engine cover decal. Fieros don't seem to like the fancier plugs.

The manual transmission fluid will last for many years because unlike engine oil, there's no combustion blow-by to contaminate it. However, since you don't really know what the transmission has in it, you could drain it and replace the fluid with 5 w 30 regular motor oil, or even better, obtain 3 quarts of Synchromesh Transmission Fluid, either the expensive GM stuff, or Pennzoil or Castrol brand. It will take about 2.5 quarts to bring the trans up to the proper level. The synchromesh fluid will give you a smoother shift.
Repulsiv OCT 06, 04:12 AM
Ok, yes I see now on my picture that one part seem to be broken off, will try to find a image of how it is supposed to look like..

I will also try to clean out the dust without opening up the AC, this is something I havent even thought about beforing this thread, if it is common that this start fires it really need to be done.

About DOT3 and 4, I think DOT4 have replaced DOT3 nearly anywhere nowadays ? .I know DOT 5 is a compåletly different beast that is not mixable and have other problems, but DOT 5.1 could be used.. however its expensive and if DOT3 was recommended its no real point in using a high spec DOT 5.1..

Ok, good to know about the AC plugs, I was going for NGK since I usally prefere them, but I know from experience that some cars are veery picky about the sparkplugs (SAAB's with trionic for example)

Strange that it is "normal" motor oil in the transmission, I havent seen that on any "modern" car (except on those that share engine and transmission oil, thats scary), but the reason I asked is
trht normally the transmission oil does not get bad so easy (mainly because it have a much easier lifte than the engine oil), but on some cars it must be replaced often because they go hard on the oil.

I probably will look into it, but after the car is up and running and road legal
RossT OCT 06, 05:22 AM
The recommended 5 speed transmission fluid was changed at some point to Genuine GM Fluid Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid.
Repulsiv OCT 06, 07:52 AM
Aha, I see. ..Looks like it is the same oil that is used in my SAAB's.

Sparkplugs.. If I serch for plugs for my Fiero and choose AC as brand, I get "R42TS" as recommendation, but the manual says "R42CTS" ? is there any difference to care about ?

I know how the markings works on NGK plugs, but no idea on those AC plugs..
fierofool OCT 06, 08:31 AM
"R42TS" replaced the "R42CTS"

RossT is correct about the changeover for trans fluid. The 4-speeds used 5 w 30 motor oil, at least in 84 and 85. I've never seen it defined where the changeover happened, but even those with early 4-speeds report much easier shifting when they change to Synchromesh fluid.