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| 1996-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Upper Control Arms: Have you checked them lately? (Page 2/4) |
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Fiero84Freak
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NOV 04, 08:40 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by madcurl:
On the hand, the car was lowered using Eibach springs, but since the springs kept sagging I went back to stock.
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I just noticed this checking back up on the thread.
Do you happen to know what Eibach setup was used when the car was lowered? A lot of 2G Spyders have been lowered incorrectly because many owners, knowing that they are FWD, put lowering springs for FWD 2G DSMs on them. However, the 2G Spyder actually uses the same suspension geometry as the AWD 2G DSM (you can very easily make a 2G Spyder AWD, as everything bolts up to the platform) and due to the higher weight of the car should have AWD springs installed if going aftermarket. It seems that there is a possibility that a lot of long-time Spyder owners could be seeing accelerated suspension wear if they have done modifications to the car incorrectly. I just also point that out because you mention the Eibachs have been sagging, which is a problem with FWD springs on a Spyder, but long-ran AWD springs will eventually do the same (just not as fast).
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revin
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NOV 04, 08:45 AM
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Stop driving those rice things like a Fiero! You know they are not made to handle like our Fieros 
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82-T/A [At Work]
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NOV 04, 12:45 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by madcurl:
Back in 1999 or so I had replaced the stock ball joints with adjustable after market ball joints. The ball joints were taken to a certified shop and press out the old one for newer ones, the control arms were in perfect condition-up until 9-yrs later when it separated and was hanging on by the grace of God. It tore-up the adjustable ball joint so I opt for a salvage control arm. On the hand, the car was lowered using Eibach springs, but since the springs kept sagging I went back to stock. Other-than-that, the wheels might be a bit heavier compared to stock wheels, but it can't be by that much. The stock wheels are 16" and the ones right now are 18" but are lightweight rims. If anything, I haven't hit any major pot holes or objects in the road. This car is mainly a
work /freeway car-it's not your daily grocery getter.
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Man, that's crazy.
It looks to me like it's made rather cheaply. I would guess (by looking at the pictures) that the metal on the stampings is actually thinner than the metal on say, our Fiero control arms. I guess (for the most part), a stock control arm is ok when left totally stock... but it's probably too cheap to really handle much modification. The stress of having the ball joint pressed in and pressed out probably fatigued the metal somewhat... not that it's your fault because doing something like that on a Fiero control arm would have NO affect on it.
Shoot... I had my lower ball joints professionally installed with a sledge-hammer... and look how it came out?
(not posting this picture directly because I've been doing it too much in threads that have nothing to do with it)
http://www.pontiacperformance.net/Temp/Brake1.jpg------------------
Todd,
2008 Jeep Patriot Limited 4x2
2002 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr 4x2
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter
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madcurl
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JAN 06, 03:20 AM
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banditbalz
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JAN 06, 12:46 PM
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FYI , this warning would apply to '95-'00 Dodge Avengers and Sebrings as they use the same suspension.
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madcurl
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JAN 06, 01:08 PM
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pontiackid86
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JAN 06, 01:54 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by madcurl:
Thanks. The cars also share the same door handles. My driver's side broke two weeks ago in cold weather. This will be the third time replacing the handle. I've decided to beef-up the handle using my previous broken one. Although, my work car currently has 280,000 miles on the engine  I never would've thought I'd have issues with door handles not to mention beefing up upper A-arms. 
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Lol his happend to my buddys passenger side.. apparentley its a commen problem with the 2G's
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madcurl
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JAN 07, 12:04 AM
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Here's the stock upper ball joint that was placed on the car in Dec 2010. In one month-the rubber is torn.
I'll have the other side replaced in a few weeks. I'm waiting on TrueChoice Koni racing to complete my coil-over kit. I want to drop the car by 1". I've used several types of lowering springs and they all failed.
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madcurl
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JAN 29, 04:33 PM
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I got my fully adjustable Koni coil-overs this week in the mail. I'll have the other upper ball joint replaced and have WCF weld the control arm-just in case.
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madcurl
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APR 07, 02:51 AM
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I got around having the coil-overs installed today.
The original upper ball joint seal wasn't ripped, no hairline cracks in the control arm, but the ball joint got the boot. Got a newer and better after market one.
The other side was installed sometime ago.
Now the front sets 1-inch lower.
You can see the damage from previous Eibach and Sprortline lowering Springs. I won't have to worry about the gradual dropping from the springs.
Three finger gap is the rule for me when I roll.
I'll need a coil-over set up for the rear, but for now it will have to do until the shocks give out. I drove 100 miles and the car rides and feels much better.
Source- Truchoice Koni in Ohio. 1 888-566-4722
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