What are some symptoms of a shaking wheel during braking? Not always but some. (Page 2/2)
pavo_roddy APR 24, 10:58 PM
HI all

Yep, am talking bout the front brakes. Ya know, I am gonna stop by a very local Dodge dealer and will pose them the question too. Also, it was weird cuz it was like the grip of the pads within the caliper was too tight.

Hope its not some new only the dealer can do crap.

Thanx all,

Air-eek
Monkeyman APR 25, 12:02 AM
If you can't remove the calipers/pads, it could be a couple things. First, if the rotors are REALLY warped (and it sounds like they are), they could be pressing against the pads constantly. Second, if the pads have worn into the rotors, the pads might be tighter than the outside edges of the rotor. Either way, find a big, flathead screwdriver, gently jam it inbetween a pad and the rotor and TWIST the screwdriver (don't pry). Hopefully, this will push the pads away from the rotor (by pushing the calipers pistons back in the housing). No matter what, you'll have to push the pistons back in the caliper bodies after you install the new pads/rotors or you'll never get the pads back around the new rotors. It's easy to do and if you're replacing the pads and rotors anyway, I wouldn't worry about damaging either.

Finally, some vehicles have a bracket that holds the pads that's separate from the actual calipers (my Blazer is set up this way). The bracket with the pads comes off but the calipers stay bolted on the vehicle.

Hope this helps some.
2.5 APR 25, 09:43 AM

quote
Originally posted by pavo_roddy:

HI all

Yep, am talking bout the front brakes. Ya know, I am gonna stop by a very local Dodge dealer and will pose them the question too. Also, it was weird cuz it was like the grip of the pads within the caliper was too tight.

Hope its not some new only the dealer can do crap.

Thanx all,

Air-eek



Probly normal, I use a rubber mallet and tap them off the rotor. They will be tight. if teh rotors and bpads are grooved it will make it harder to get them off. rememebr to clean the new rotors with brake clean to get any oils off and dont get penetrating oil on the new pads or rotor.
pavo_roddy APR 29, 08:10 PM
HI all

I do always appreciate the help here on Pennocks!! Even if I forget about a post sometimes, lol...

Did the pads n rotors today. I helped my brother move on Sunday, in the freakin rain too!!! The drivers side was the hardest as far as stuck bolts that now has a good coat of never seeze. The passenger side piston was out further than the driver and the outside pad was about gone. The passenger inside pad still had less than the driver side had. The driver side wear was even. So I think the caliper on the right side is sticking maybe?

Thanx all,

Air-eek

edit: OOH!! The steering wheel no longer shakes while braking. Also, the brake pedal is not as hard as the GM cars I've had, after changing pads n rotors. Is this a Dodge thing, or will I need to bleed the brakes?

[This message has been edited by pavo_roddy (edited 04-29-2014).]

carnut122 APR 29, 09:25 PM

quote
Originally posted by pavo_roddy:
edit: OOH!! The steering wheel no longer shakes while braking. Also, the brake pedal is not as hard as the GM cars I've had, after changing pads n rotors. Is this a Dodge thing, or will I need to bleed the brakes?




If you didn't open up the hydraulic system, there shouldn't be a need to bleed the system. How is the stopping distance? If it seems long and if the pedal seems to be compressing air, you might want to explore bleeding the system. Otherwise, I wouldn't fix what isn't broken.
2.5 MAY 01, 01:40 PM
Unless the car pulls to one side when braking probably none are sticking in that sense.
If these calipers are like GM ones (I havent done a dodge one) Make sure to lube the slide pins very well and if the pads still wear funny (only on the outside pad for example, I'd replace the calipers and hoses.
tebailey MAY 01, 03:23 PM
New pads and rotors may take a few miles to "seat". All the Chryslers I've driven do have a different brake pedal feel than the GM's.