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| Looking into buying a 4th gen T/A , has oil leak at the valve covers. Opinions? (Page 5/6) |
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Joe 1320
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AUG 12, 03:28 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Raydar:
I've just read back through this thread.
I have to second Joe's suggestion.
I forgot that a 12 bolt rear had been added. Was this rear engineered specifically for F-bods? Or was it adapted?
If it was just adapted from another type of vehicle, the pinion angle is going to be a crapshoot.
Fortunately, there are wedges (pinion shims) available that can address this.
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The pinion angle in these is adjusted via an aftermarket adjustable torque arm. The lower control arm brackets are welded to the axle tubes and the lower control arms are a fixed length (unless aftermarket adjustable length versions are used. I selected BMR adjustable torque arm, adjustable panhard rod, upper panhard reloaction kit, lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets, Intrax springs and air lift bags. Once dialed in, the chassis was sweet. I could get just a little daylight under the front wheels on a hard launch on drag radials. When the pinion angle was off, it did rumble. If I remember correct, -3º to -4º should correct it.
http://bmrsuspension.com/?p...cleid=6&maincatid=57
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nitroheadz28
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AUG 13, 02:02 PM
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I'm going to need to wait until I can get a second set of hands to really inspect whats going on. Major things on the to do list:
*Inspect rag joint (most probable cause of the slop). Fix- Either get the conversion kit from an fbody member, or remove a 98-02 steering shaft from a parted out car and have it welded to fit.
*Put rear up on stands, have someone operate the clutch/ put it in gear to see whats causing the vibration I'm getting/ pinpoint where its coming from.
Also, this noise is starting to bother me. It happens when I let out the clutch in first, so far I think I've ruled out the- clutch/TOB/1st syncro/ clutch chatter. It is silent in reverse, and I ruled out the earlier things because it made the noise once while I was in traffic creeping forward in gear and off the clutch. Not sure what it could be? Maybe 1st gear is worn/ has lost its fit and makes some noise at very low RPM?
*Brakes, replace pads (I'm thinking hawk HPS or EBC yellow/red?). Figure out which of the rear calipers is the trouble maker that is causing my ebrake not to work.
Is the ebrake part of the caliper something that is servicable and doesn't require strange tools to repair?
Thanks everyone.
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slims00ls1z28
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AUG 13, 09:28 PM
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Congrats on the buy I have an LS1 Z28 and love every bit of it as well. You mentioned the subframe connectors, I'd highly recommend them. My Z pulled dimples in both rear quarters where the inner panel is welded to the outer one from the flex, I live on a very hilly, curvy, bumpy road and have at least 100 passes down the track so I'm sure that had something to do with it but it stopped getting worse and handled better as soon as I put them on.
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nitroheadz28
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AUG 13, 11:03 PM
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Thanks! They are definitely on my shopping list, I'll keep my eye out for a set on the forums. Any other mods you'd recommend?
I keep feeling like this car should be faster from 0-60.. It just doesn't pull all that hard. Apparently it should have well over 300whp with the bolt ons and tune, but I just don't feel it 
I it out for a quick drive today, I was a little more aggressive to get a feel for how it reacts to heavier throttle input. All I can say is wow, even with these meaty 315s on the back- it doesn't take much to turn it into a drift machine. I can now understand what people say about fbodies in the rain/ snow, I am really going to have to be careful.
I'm also going to have to take apart the pass side door, the felt window guides are starting to scratch the window. I might as well do the motors/ lubing the tracks+ locks, I'm thinking of replacing the felt with industrial grade velcro (the soft side). It beats buying each guide for $15 a pop from the dealer.
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Joe 1320
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AUG 14, 07:58 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by nitroheadz28:
Thanks! They are definitely on my shopping list, I'll keep my eye out for a set on the forums. Any other mods you'd recommend?
I keep feeling like this car should be faster from 0-60.. It just doesn't pull all that hard. Apparently it should have well over 300whp with the bolt ons and tune, but I just don't feel it
I it out for a quick drive today, I was a little more aggressive to get a feel for how it reacts to heavier throttle input. All I can say is wow, even with these meaty 315s on the back- it doesn't take much to turn it into a drift machine. I can now understand what people say about fbodies in the rain/ snow, I am really going to have to be careful.
I'm also going to have to take apart the pass side door, the felt window guides are starting to scratch the window. I might as well do the motors/ lubing the tracks+ locks, I'm thinking of replacing the felt with industrial grade velcro (the soft side). It beats buying each guide for $15 a pop from the dealer. |
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You need to verify what gears you have. Also, the 12 bolt is costing you HP as it's heavier and takes more power to turn it. There are tons of little modifications that when you add them up, can make a difference. bypassing the heater hoses to the throttle body, a smooth intake bellow, air foil, K&N filter, custom program in the computer, higher stall converter (automatics) high flow Y pipe, 1.6 roller rockers ( I have a set, give you a great deal on them) and you need sticky tires. Not the run of the mill ones as you found they spin too easily.
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nitroheadz28
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AUG 14, 05:46 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Joe 1320:
You need to verify what gears you have. Also, the 12 bolt is costing you HP as it's heavier and takes more power to turn it. There are tons of little modifications that when you add them up, can make a difference. bypassing the heater hoses to the throttle body, a smooth intake bellow, air foil, K&N filter, custom program in the computer, higher stall converter (automatics) high flow Y pipe, 1.6 roller rockers ( I have a set, give you a great deal on them) and you need sticky tires. Not the run of the mill ones as you found they spin too easily. |
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I was told its got 3.73 in there right now, is it really that big of a difference? I know the gears are about 20% larger but would it rob that much more power? Thanks for the tips, I still need to register on a forum. The ones I've been doing my research on so far are LS1tech and LS1LT1. Sticky tires are definitely on the list, but I'll need something rain friendly and not DRs.
As far as the rockers, I eventually want to do a cam in the long run (maybe heads but we are talking $$$) just because I think a car like this should have some lope to it. The current exhaust isn't really to my liking, it sounds raspy at 3500 or higher- I think I'll eventually want to mess with it.
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nitroheadz28
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AUG 20, 12:14 PM
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No replies on my threads in ls1tech, maybe there are a few fbody gurus here. These are my main issues right now that I asked on the forum about:
#1- I get this light grinding noise at very slow speeds- only going forward. 95% of the time it happens as I'm letting the clutch out, about 1" from the end of the stroke. The other times it has made the noise as I was creeping in traffic in first off the clutch and started to accelerate.
#2- This just happened yesterday, twice.. Both times I was in reverse and 1/2-3/4s of the way letting the clutch out to back up and there was a bang just as it got moving, not loud but enough to feel it everywhere in the car. I proceeded to reverse by letting the clutch out much more slowly and very light throttle.
I wont have time to tinker with it until the end of the week, and I don't really have anyone on hand to who can run it for me while I inspect (not to mention no one I know around here knows how to drive manual or work on cars) 
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Joe 1320
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AUG 21, 05:16 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by nitroheadz28:
I was told its got 3.73 in there right now, is it really that big of a difference? I know the gears are about 20% larger but would it rob that much more power? Thanks for the tips, I still need to register on a forum. The ones I've been doing my research on so far are LS1tech and LS1LT1. Sticky tires are definitely on the list, but I'll need something rain friendly and not DRs.
As far as the rockers, I eventually want to do a cam in the long run (maybe heads but we are talking $$$) just because I think a car like this should have some lope to it. The current exhaust isn't really to my liking, it sounds raspy at 3500 or higher- I think I'll eventually want to mess with it. |
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It's the 12 bolt that is heavier and takes more power to turn. 3.73s are the right gear for an automatic. 
as far as an exhaust, I've got the one for you.... a 4" mufflex cat back..... when you open it up, it sounds like a pro stocker with that deep bellow.  either that or a stainless steel borla adjustable cat back. I've got a fair amount of parts if you are so inclined.
| quote | Originally posted by nitroheadz28:
No replies on my threads in ls1tech, maybe there are a few fbody gurus here. These are my main issues right now that I asked on the forum about:
#1- I get this light grinding noise at very slow speeds- only going forward. 95% of the time it happens as I'm letting the clutch out, about 1" from the end of the stroke. The other times it has made the noise as I was creeping in traffic in first off the clutch and started to accelerate.
#2- This just happened yesterday, twice.. Both times I was in reverse and 1/2-3/4s of the way letting the clutch out to back up and there was a bang just as it got moving, not loud but enough to feel it everywhere in the car. I proceeded to reverse by letting the clutch out much more slowly and very light throttle.
I wont have time to tinker with it until the end of the week, and I don't really have anyone on hand to who can run it for me while I inspect (not to mention no one I know around here knows how to drive manual or work on cars) |
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Not sure about #1, but #2 might very well be a related issue to the vibration...... Check the trans mount, check the torque arm mount ( it hooks to the transmission). both of those will mess with the driveline phasing and make noise when loading or unloading.
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84 2.5
87 328 GTB replica
87 Coutach replica
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nitroheadz28
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AUG 21, 06:54 PM
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I really appreciate it Joe. I hope I can have someone run the car for me so I can inspect it before I start daily driving it.
Could you pm me with what you have? I'm definitely doing brakes as the pads are close to gone. I was thinking C5 on the front, but just read that its the same for stopping power compared to LS1 brakes- only difference is less brake fade.
Brakemotive sells powerstop rotors+ ceramic pads for all 4 corners for $165, so I was thinking that since I don't intend on racing apart from the Fiero cruises I go to and I don't need an overkill setup. EBC reds are $180 for the pads themselves anyway.[This message has been edited by nitroheadz28 (edited 08-21-2012).]
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Joe 1320
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AUG 21, 09:26 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by nitroheadz28:
I really appreciate it Joe. I hope I can have someone run the car for me so I can inspect it before I start daily driving it.
Could you pm me with what you have? I'm definitely doing brakes as the pads are close to gone. I was thinking C5 on the front, but just read that its the same for stopping power compared to LS1 brakes- only difference is less brake fade.
Brakemotive sells powerstop rotors+ ceramic pads for all 4 corners for $165, so I was thinking that since I don't intend on racing apart from the Fiero cruises I go to and I don't need an overkill setup. EBC reds are $180 for the pads themselves anyway.
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I'll go though the garage and see what I come up with....
Now the ceramic pads, you might not be happy with ceramic pads on the street. While they generate less dust, they require a bit of heat to work well. Their cool stopping power is not as good as a semi metallic. Ceramic works well under racing conditions where there is a build up of heat. But In fact, in colder weather and / or rain, a ceramic pad might make you soil your drawers as stopping power sucks until a bunch of heat is built up..... not the best for the street. I think you want a set of slotted rotors and a good set of semi metallic pads. For the street, that's about the best you're going to get without increasing the rotor size. Been there and done that.
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