|
Urgent! Royal f*** up heater core replacement on 95 Trans Am (Page 1/1) |
|
nitroheadz28
|
DEC 07, 08:15 PM
|
|
I bought a TYC aftermarket core to replace my blocked up (so blocked I couldn't flush it out) existing one. I took a couple hours cursing under my breath working in 40* weather and got the new one in without too much drama.
Before I installed it I compared it to the OEM and one of the outlets was about 3/4" shorter. No biggie, I'll just cut/ remove the OEM heater hose and replace it with a longer section.. WRONG- # 17 is crimped to #16
By my index finger, I had already started hacking away before I realized that it wasn't a slip on connection.
What are my options? I need my car for work monday. I can't detach the hardlines so I can pull that one out and try to pick out the existing hose and crimp a new section in. Please advise, I'm really at a loss now
|
|
|
tesmith66
|
DEC 07, 08:31 PM
|
|
Cut off the crimp an slide a new section of hose as far as you can over the hard line (use some WD-40 on it). Put 2 or 3 clamps on it and then put the other end on the heater core like normal. If you have a flaring tool, you can flare the end a bit and take the sharp edge off with sandpaper. That will hold the hose better.
Been there, done that on other cars. Be glad it's 40 there. Was 6 here this morning, got up to 26, but now it's back down to 16. Stay warm.
|
|
|
nitroheadz28
|
DEC 07, 09:00 PM
|
|
quote | Originally posted by tesmith66:
Cut off the crimp an slide a new section of hose as far as you can over the hard line (use some WD-40 on it). Put 2 or 3 clamps on it and then put the other end on the heater core like normal. If you have a flaring tool, you can flare the end a bit and take the sharp edge off with sandpaper. That will hold the hose better.
Been there, done that on other cars. Be glad it's 40 there. Was 6 here this morning, got up to 26, but now it's back down to 16. Stay warm. |
|
Yeah I did some searching and found that solution too, going to attempt it tomorrow but I'm not sure how I'll pull that hardline out far enough so I can get at it with a dremel- its a real clusterf*** in there. I don't have a flaring tool, but I'm thinking of what else I can do to make a flare of sorts. Worst case scenario I'll re-route the core but its going to get really cold this week.
I don't know how you do it! I have terrible circulation/ body temp regulation and my extremities quite literally begin to freeze under 55*. In fact I'm shocked that I got by today, only reason probably being that I was wearing latex gloves that would normally make you sweat in warmer temps.
|
|
|
tesmith66
|
DEC 08, 07:19 AM
|
|
How do I do it? I freeze my ass off and b!tch miserably. I wear lots of warm clothes and nitrile gloves under my work gloves. Of course, that's for when I have to go out. It I don't have to, I stay inside and b!tch about not getting anything done.
I would use a tubing cutter on that line. A dremel will fill the tube with crap that could kill the water pump seal. Lowe's or Home Depot will have little tubing cutters in the plumbing section for a few bucks that will cut that line with no debris. You don't have to flare it, but it helps. I have attached several heater and radiator hoses to smooth tubes without any problems. A bead or even a small flare will help retain the hose, but 2 or 3 clamps will do the same. If you use WD-40, it will help you slide the hose on, then it will turn into a sticky goo that will glue the hose in place. Use the product's downside to your advantage.
This morning (4:00 AM) I woke up to 13 degrees and a light coating of snow. Had to take the dog out and she didn't even listen to my bitching. I get no respect...[This message has been edited by tesmith66 (edited 12-08-2013).]
|
|
|
nitroheadz28
|
DEC 08, 05:31 PM
|
|
That sounds miserable
I got it done today, went smoothly after I cut the crimp off thankfully. Now I'm heading out to road test it, all I did was run it to temp and bleeding the coolant.
Thanks for the tips!
|
|
|
David Hambleton
|
DEC 10, 09:52 PM
|
|
I usually wear fabric gloves with rubber facing. I leave an incandescent trouble light on & wrap my hands around the bulb guard when my fingers get too cold. Helps prolong the misery fun!
|
|
|
nitroheadz28
|
DEC 10, 10:05 PM
|
|
I've used those plenty in the cold and they're useless for me, they just breathe too much unlike the latex. Now if I had something warm to put my hands up against I'm sure it'd be better . I think we can all agree that working on cars in the cold outside sucks.
|
|
|
tesmith66
|
DEC 11, 12:31 PM
|
|
I work on mine in the cold inside. It still sucks. I need heat!!
I have pair of 500W halogen lights on a stand. Those will focus light and heat on the work area which helps.
|
|
|
Formula88
|
DEC 18, 01:35 PM
|
|
|
|
tesmith66
|
DEC 19, 09:10 AM
|
|
No reason you couldn't just ditch the metal pipes and run heater hose the whole way- just like ALL cars did since heater cores were invented.
|
|
|