Removing harmonic balancer (Page 1/1)
Lilchief AUG 07, 07:33 PM
I have a 2010 fusion 3.5 dohc v6. Can't get the balancer off. My original 3 finger puller wouldn't fit inside. So I went to HF and got a cheap. I've put 2 breakers on it 1 to keep it from turning and 1 to turn the bolt. It's to the point of breaking. Are they that hard ? Any advice ?


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85 GT 3.4
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06
Unknown New 4T60/3.42

[This message has been edited by Lilchief (edited 08-07-2016).]

thesameguy AUG 09, 01:25 AM
Did you remove the bolt?? IIRC it's a left hand thread. Lock down the flex plate, blast off the bolt with an impact wrench in reverse, mostly just slip off the pulley.
Lilchief AUG 09, 06:03 PM
Yes I removed the bolt. Might try a different style puller.
Fastfiero1 AUG 11, 03:09 PM
The only tools they list in Alldata for the repair besides the installing tools are a strap wrench and 3 jaw puller. The procedure is pretty straight forward and doesn't say you need to lower the sub frame or anything. Also I posted the torque specs for you in case you needed them.

Listed tools:


Torque specs:

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Fiero's Owned:

1987 Coupe 2.5 5spd May 99 - June 03
1987 GT V6 5spd July 30 2012 - Current

Lilchief AUG 11, 04:27 PM
Fastfiero1: I have found the 303-D121 through earlier searhes but $110 is a bit steep. I was looking at a Lisle 51450, about half price. Been working on this Fusion 3.5 for 3 weeks on/off trying to get to the water pump. Not one of Fords better ideas. Suppose to be a 10 hour job but will be more like a 40 hour job for me.

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85 GT 3.4
14.9 @ 90 1.9 60' Old TH125/3.06
Unknown New 4T60/3.42

Fastfiero1 AUG 11, 04:52 PM
Yikes!

That's one of the reasons I am not a Ford fan. Not that I'll say they don't build a decent product that sells but it's their "re-invent the wheel" practices that drive me crazy.

Unless you are speaking of a 5.4L 3 valve, in that case they don't build a decent product!
Fastfiero1 AUG 11, 04:56 PM
I find this puller kit works well... https://www.amazon.com/OEMT...mpener/dp/B0006307WC

It says Chrysler but I found it works on almost any one that uses a 3 jaw setup.
Lilchief SEP 03, 07:28 PM
Well I sprung for the 303-d121. It came right off. Now more problems. New post
Patrick SEP 04, 12:17 AM

quote
Originally posted by Fastfiero1:

That's one of the reasons I am not a Ford fan. Not that I'll say they don't build a decent product that sells but it's their "re-invent the wheel" practices that drive me crazy.



Oh man, tell me about it. I volunteered to replace the front struts in my Ex's 2001 Ford Taurus wagon. I'm still on good terms with her, and I hate seeing her get ripped off by repair shops. Anyway, it's relatively common for the front coil springs to rust badly and snap on these cars, and the danger is that the sharp broken end of the coil will slide over and stick into the tire... with sometimes disastrous results!

I figured that swapping out the front struts would be a relatively easy job. I mean, how difficult could it be?

Would you believe the damn cradle needs to be lowered??!!! I'm not kidding. It's quite a struggle to get the original front struts out... but the replacement ones are about half an inch longer... and there's just no freakin' way they're going in without more distance being put between the underside of the strut towers and the top of the knuckles. It's no wonder I've never wanted anything to do with Fords!

For anyone who might be curious, here's a video that does a pretty good job of showing what's required with these cars. Jump ahead to 1:27...

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 09-10-2016).]