I'm documenting the work on this "go around" for my next appraisal.

The cause of the problem - WHY the engine/transmission was pulled.
This thing collapsed while sitting at a light and I just felt the car creep ahead slightly (I thought the hydraulics were going).

But the pressure plate fingers rubbing on the bearing cooked the grease in it fairly quickly! What a stench!

There are downsides to a "heavy clutch" (Spec Stage 2) - that's a lot of pressure.
By comparison, the Bully Clutch Stage 3 I replaced it with is very light. www.bullyclutch.com










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My World of Wheels Winners (Click on links below)

3.4L Supercharged 87 GT and Super Duty 4 Indy #163

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

I bought a new Fiero Store Getrag clutch fork shaft Design 1 in my case (still "ouch" on price), bushings and shaft seal to go with it.
Item http://fierostore.com/Produ...ail.aspx?s=54030&p=1

The top bushing is easy to knock out with Rodney Dickman's bushing tool.
But you need a specialized tool to get the lower bushing for the clutch fork out. Yup. I already tried the "grease trick" with no result.

But a found a transmission shop who said they could remove it for me.
They told me they use a slide hammer with pilot bushing extractor to hook under the bushing.
It was a struggle, but they got it out - basically cut cutting the thing in half with a hammer and chisel.
They all had pizza for lunch the next day

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-24-2013).]

I found that my transmission had been seeping for some time from the cup-shaped shift shaft cover.
This metal cover has a rubber sealing edge embedded on it - not replaceable - and the covers are discontinued.



After cleaning up and repainting the transmission I reinstalled the shift shaft cover.
When last rebuilt, they installed this with silicone - so I cleaned up the edge as best as I could, leaving most of the original rubber seal intact.
I trimmed back the rubber edge about 1/16 inch, and applied a bead of Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker #51813.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

The clutch kit I got was a Bully Stage 3 www.bullyclutch.com
Kit includes a new release bearing and clutch alignment tool.

They don't list any clutches for the Fiero but they do for the Cavalier (guess they don't know they're the same)

Chevrolet Cavalier 2.8L Eng (Getrag/Muncie 5 Spd) 1987-89
Stage 1 04-0881
Stage 2 04-0882
Stage 3 04-0883 - what I ordered
Stage 4 04-0884C
Stage 5 04-885C

The center hub of the Bully disc is smaller, but otherwise they look a lot alike.
Because of the Bully pressure plate redesign, the pedal effort is light while still giving great clamping force.
I still have a Spec Stage 2 in my Indy - it's a real chore to drive now compared to the Bully.

EDIT: I was SO happy with this clutch, I installed the same one in my Indy as well (w/Getrag 5-speed).
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/...L/000077-6.html#p214

Spec Stage 2 vs Bully Stage 3

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

OK - you buy the Fiero Store Getrag clutch fork shaft (Design 1 in my case), bushings and seal to go with it.

You go through all the grief of getting that "darned" bottom bushing out and get the shaft, bushings and release bearing installed.
Everything looks good - you bolt the transmission to the engine and drop it on the cradle. So far so good...

NOW you go to install the clutch slave cylinder and something doesn't fit quite right. I thought I had screwed up somewhere.



BUT I remembered Troy mentioning something about this when he rebuilt the Getrag I was installing in my Indy.
There is something odd about these FS Getrag clutch shafts - they "clock" wrong. (this is the 2nd one I had bought)

A phone call to Troy and I knew what to do. Remove the clutch arm to modify it (NOT the shaft).
Using a round file, file off the first tooth by the "8" and slightly elongate the bolt hole. You can install "1 tooth over".

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

With engine also out, I found that my thermostat housing gasket had been seeping coolant which had trickled down
and eaten the paint off the cabin side of the engine all the way down to the front motor mount.

Upon examining the housing I discovered the flange that mates to the intake manifold was slightly warped.
A few seconds on a belt sander remedied the situation (a wood block with sandpaper would do equally well).

But I always wondered WHY you would use PAPER as a gasket for coolant which is at least 50% water?? I wanted something better.

I found that Felpro makes a variety of better quality thermostat gaskets than what you get in their kits.
I found PN 35595 for GM V6 engines has a nice rubber ring embedded in it.
The holes are a perfect match - only need to elongate them slightly outward as on the regular gasket.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

I had the headers off to get a new ceramic coating and to repaint the engine.

I'd heard about people using these VW exhaust gaskets for the V6 engine and decided to look some up.
I found these copper ones with the 1-5/8" hole that people were recommending. (4 in a package)

It's only once I got them that I noticed the stock exhaust gasket and heads only have a 1-1/2" outlet anyway.
1-1/2" rings also available - could have also used those. All installed - no leaks. YAY!!

California Import Parts (separate websites for Canada and US customers) http://www.cip1.com/
Canadians won't be "importing" from the Langley B.C. store...

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

WARNING - parts you will never find find locally - or very unlikely to find....
Yeah - some people say uncomplimentary things about Fiero Store, BUT they have stuff you will need.

Nobody even has a listing for these that I could find.
EGR adapter to exhaust gasket (between EGR adapter and Y-pipe)
http://fierostore.com/Produ...ail.aspx?s=68299&p=1


I did find NAPA had these listed, but none had any stock locally.
I had to drive from my city to small town for these - they had a box of 10.
EGR tube gaskets (EGR to bottom of plenum)
http://fierostore.com/Produ...ail.aspx?s=67952&p=1


As far as the world is concerned, these don't exist. Original GM part number is discontinued.
Nothing in the standard HELP packages will work either - usually wrong size or too thin.
If you only need the tube o-ring, it's been said that the standard AS -105 (AS dash 105) is the size you need.
Cold Start Injector O-ring kit
http://fierostore.com/Produ...ail.aspx?s=61954&p=1


As far as GM was concerned, they'd rather sell you a whole new rail (now discontinued anyway)
My block seal looked not too bad, so I gave it a misting of Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket - seems OK now.
Fuel rail to block seal
http://fierostore.com/Produ...ail.aspx?s=60853&p=1



EDIT: EGR tube gaskets - you can try (95 Camaro 3.4L on Rock Auto)
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # VG9 (open hole)
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # VG84 (has the metal orifice restriction)
or AIRTEX Part # 3F1231 (has the metal orifice restriction)

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-25-2013).]

This was the first time the engine's been out since 2003, so this was a good opportunity to refresh it.

Mechanically, there was nothing that needed to be done other than replacing a couple of gaskets.
Mostly it needed cosmetic refresh - paint had faded or chipped etc.

The top end and accessories were removed, the block cleaned up and repainted VHT Gloss Black.
The intake manifolds, oil pan and alternator bracket were painted VHT Cast Aluminum
I LOVE VHT Caliper Paint - SO MUCH more durable that anything by Duplicolor.

That said, the closest thing to original I could find to repaint the upper plenum is Duplicolor Ford Red CDE1605
Duplicolor still lists Chrysler Industrial Red DE1632 - BUT not available in Canada anywhere - and hard to find in the US I hear.

The valve covers on the engine are new OEM from the box (had these on the shelf for a few years)
You can see how closely the Ford Red matches them. (Chevy orange-red is too orange by the way).

We reworked the exhaust to a larger 2-1/2" from header to Borla muffler (Borla exhaust was only 2")
The FOCOA header Y-pipe was reworked to 2-1/2" (was about 2-1/4") with a 2-1/2" in/out catalytic convertor installed.
The headers, Y-pipe and downpipes were then sent out for a new high-luster ceramic coating.

New Magnecor plug wires, MSD distributor cap and coil add the finishing touches.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]