Removing Broken off Bleeder Valve on 88 Rear Caliper (Page 1/3)
reinhart SEP 18, 05:37 PM
Have a spare caliper housing off the car with a broken off bleeder valve. The valve has broken off slightly lower than the surrounding caliper metal. The caliper is aluminum and the bleeder valve is steel I believe. I tried drilling into the valve so I can use and EZ Etractor but haven't made any progress....the metal seems too tough. Also tried heat cycling with a torch to break it free with no luck. I'd like to save this caliper as 88 rears are so hard to come by. Any ideas to get the valve out?
fieroguru SEP 18, 06:51 PM
Fire up the welder and put a heavy tack on the end of the bleeder (fill the hole and about 1/8" above the hole). Then put a 3/8" nut over the top of the bleeder hole and fill it with weld. While the nut is red hot, smack it a couple of times with a hammer. Wait about 1 minute and turn the nut.

This process works so well, it is the first thing I do with any broken or stuck bolt.
theogre SEP 18, 11:39 PM
Steel "bolt" in Aluminum whatever has "self welded" itself w/ corrosion.

Heating is bad and easy "melts" Al threads so never move w/o removing the threads... IOW same damage as Thread Galling that strips Al Spark plug holes etc.
Drill and use any easyout thing likely only expanded the bleeder making more problem too.
Welding anything to a bleeder is likely to make more problems.
Freezing the bleeder might work but likely lost any chance now.

Even if you remove it now very likely the hole and threads are F'd.
Might get lucky w/ rethread and oversize bleeder or find bleeder replace kit and tools to install it... most DIY doing either is unlikely to work.
Get replacement caliper.

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[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 09-18-2020).]

Craig71188 SEP 19, 08:06 AM
Not much material around the Fiero bleeder, but I have used these on many a FIat X1/9 caliper back in the day:

https://www.thexton.com/dis...eder-screw-p-92.html

Only requires a 1/8 NPT tapped hole. I have never tried it on a Fiero caliper, but if the one you have is too fubared to save otherwise, might be worth a try for a few bucks.
fierosound SEP 19, 02:43 PM
I had a similar problem with the steel plugs in the coolant tubes under the car.
The allen socket in the plug had rounded out and I already drilled a hole for an Easy Out. Wouldn't budge.

Got some CRC Freeze Off penetrant, and with some work managed to get it out.
The "freeze shock" into the plug helped break it loose from the threads.



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reinhart SEP 19, 04:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Fire up the welder and put a heavy tack on the end of the bleeder (fill the hole and about 1/8" above the hole). Then put a 3/8" nut over the top of the bleeder hole and fill it with weld. While the nut is red hot, smack it a couple of times with a hammer. Wait about 1 minute and turn the nut.

This process works so well, it is the first thing I do with any broken or stuck bolt.



The bleeder breakoff is below the surface so I imagine the weld is going to contact the aluminum housing as well. Would this be a problem?
reinhart SEP 19, 04:03 PM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Steel "bolt" in Aluminum whatever has "self welded" itself w/ corrosion.

Heating is bad and easy "melts" Al threads so never move w/o removing the threads... IOW same damage as Thread Galling that strips Al Spark plug holes etc.
Drill and use any easyout thing likely only expanded the bleeder making more problem too.
Welding anything to a bleeder is likely to make more problems.
Freezing the bleeder might work but likely lost any chance now.

Even if you remove it now very likely the hole and threads are F'd.
Might get lucky w/ rethread and oversize bleeder or find bleeder replace kit and tools to install it... most DIY doing either is unlikely to work.
Get replacement caliper.



I've already replaced the caliper. I was hoping to save this one as it's in beautiful shape with no scoring on the slider housing or piston housing. I've just got it lying around in the garage. At this point it's either get the bleeder out or throw it away so...but it's an 88 rear which are pretty scarce.
reinhart SEP 19, 04:04 PM

quote
Originally posted by Craig71188:

Not much material around the Fiero bleeder, but I have used these on many a FIat X1/9 caliper back in the day:

https://www.thexton.com/dis...eder-screw-p-92.html

Only requires a 1/8 NPT tapped hole. I have never tried it on a Fiero caliper, but if the one you have is too fubared to save otherwise, might be worth a try for a few bucks.



I still have to get the old one out to use this....
reinhart SEP 19, 04:08 PM

quote
Originally posted by fierosound:

I had a similar problem with the steel plugs in the coolant tubes under the car.
The allen socket in the plug had rounded out and I already drilled a hole for an Easy Out. Wouldn't budge.

Got some CRC Freeze Off penetrant, and with some work managed to get it out.
The "freeze shock" into the plug helped break it loose from the threads.





This is a really good idea, but I have one concern: If the corrosion is removed using this, I still need a fair amount of force to start the bleeder turning don't I? Would I still need to combine this with an ez out extractor or weld onto the bleeder to get a surface to turn?
Dennis LaGrua SEP 19, 04:24 PM
The way to get the old bleeder out is to remove the piston then drill it out and tap for 1/8" NPT. Then buy the insert with the bleeder adapter that provides the new seat. Then reassemble the caliper.
The problem with just drilling out the old bleeder and trying to re-thread is that when the drill hits the seat area it will distort it and the bleeder screw will leak. Try Dorman 13915, about $7 on Amazon

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[This message has been edited by Dennis LaGrua (edited 09-19-2020).]