 
     |
| Interior Fuel Sender/Pump Connector (Page 1/3) |
|
gjgpff
|
DEC 31, 06:20 PM
|
|
Hi All,
I'm working on my 1988 2.5L Value Leader. Can anyone tell me where I might get a replacement for the interior fuel tank sender/pump connector circled in red on here?
The pin for the sender wire (purple/pink) is not making reliable contact and thus the fuel level sometimes pegs beyond full. I'd like to repin
all 3 wires.[This message has been edited by gjgpff (edited 01-09-2022).]
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
DEC 31, 08:52 PM
|
|
most times... the "pins" are standard and used in many other connections.
If these are what I think... uses a common "pin" that same as others inside the cabin.
Carefully release TPA... push on ears holes on black part side then pull. (See my Cave, Terminal Access)
Terminal should have locking ear you push release tool in front and pull wire out back like this... See my Cave, Defect & Connection notes
If doesn't have major damage...
Often cleaning and carefully pinching in right places will solve many problems w/o replacing.
Coat w/ brake or silicon grease. Is on top of so don't sit in gas that lets moisture eating w/o something block that.
If bad and need replacement, not sure who sells just the pins to DIY crowd.
Might get pigtail kit for that or something w/ same terminals.------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)
The Ogre's Fiero Cave
|
|
|
|
gjgpff
|
JAN 01, 12:39 AM
|
|
Ogre, Many Thanks! Yeah, I will definitely use your approach for pin removal and cleaning. I believe that the pins should be of a standard type, I'd just love not to have the hassle of repinning.
For some reason the system won't let me add a proper image to my original post so I'm going to try again:
And here's an image of the connector removed, showing the three pins for power (grey), ground (black), and signal (purple/pink)
After a bit of poking around on the web, it looks like the connector is kind of a Molex type, but I could be wrong.
Any help is appreciated, thanks![This message has been edited by gjgpff (edited 01-01-2022).]
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
JAN 01, 12:20 PM
|
|
Is Not a Molex or other standard types for electronics.
All connectors are GM parts made by Packard Electric Div of GM later Delphi.
Some pins are available, others not easy to find thru regular retail. (Some now hard for even thru GM Dealers Service.)
Many plugs are only sold as pigtails thru parts stores often as Dorman parts.
Some pins maybe compatible w/ other electronic parts but often not and why some people put on generic spade ends etc.
Are notes in FSM and other how to take apart but often doesn't cover all connectors w/ exact details.[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-01-2022).]
|
|
|
|
V8Steve
|
JAN 01, 11:36 PM
|
|
Mine had melted and I replaced the entire bulkhead harness, connector, pigtail, etc. from RACETRONIX
The links below are for two of their offerings. They have others.
RACETRONIX
RACETRONIX Universal
If you replace the bulkhead connector, use a socket and channel locks to secure it tightly against the seal:
------------------
88GT 355 CI, AED HO 750 Double Pumper, AFR milled 180, Dyno'd at 427 HP, 360 WHP, F40 6-Spd
anderson@gdsconsulting.com[This message has been edited by V8Steve (edited 01-02-2022).]
|
|
|
|
gjgpff
|
JAN 04, 09:53 AM
|
|
Thanks! I may have to employ something like that sooner rather than later! By cleaning the contacts and the connector I was able to get the impedance on all three connections: power, ground, and sensor, to ~1ohm or less. I put the sender/pump back in the tank and the tank back in the car. I reconnected the battery and the the fuel pump fuse.
The engine started right up the first time and ran/idled for 15 min or so. I drove the car to turn it around and everything seemed to be working, and my fix to the fuel level sender had worked!
However, on the second attempt the car wouldn't start, I cranked it several times but it didn't catch. I let it cool and tried again: crank but no start.
I'm going to have to start a new thread to diagnose this problem. It's possible the fuel pump replacement was unnecessary and the issue is somewhere else. I probably should have done more diagnosis before I pulled the tank, but I already knew I wanted to fix the sender.
Back to the drawing board! I guess I should start a new thread, right?
|
|
|
|
Rexgirl
|
JAN 04, 04:44 PM
|
|
You can measure the resistance in ohms between the tan/white wire in the ALDL connector (behind the cigarette lighter) and the body of the car to check your repair. The reading should be under 100 ohms (probably quite a lot lower).
BTW, the male connector in your picture looks very dodgy and may not be reliable, even after cleaning.
|
|
|
|
theogre
|
JAN 04, 07:41 PM
|
|
I think OE is GM/Delhi 56 Series "spade" end use by so many plugs to list. Same end but different plastic for whatever part goes to.
Can get them because still in use by GM and many others but not in small quantities from many vendors.
Above RACETRONIX part is a pigtail kit made of GM/Delhpi Metri-Pack plug and socket.
Is 150 pull to seat series and rated 14a but you don't want pull more ~ 10a max for long term use.
| quote | Originally posted by Rexgirl:
You can measure the resistance in ohms between the tan/white wire in the ALDL connector (behind the cigarette lighter) and the body of the car to check your repair. The reading should be under 100 ohms (probably quite a lot lower).
BTW, the male connector in your picture looks very dodgy and may not be reliable, even after cleaning. |
|
Measure Ω that ways isn't good.
Tank ground wire end is actually in the cabin. See my Cave, Wire Service
Measure Ω between ALDL G and frame then measure across the motor and more will give bad values. That's even if you get good connection w/ meter to frame.
|
|
|
|
gjgpff
|
JAN 05, 10:01 AM
|
|
So, I went back to first principals yesterday and attempted to start the car again. Here's what I found
1) I didn't hear the fuel pump prime when the key was turned to the (first? second?) position, so that's not good.
2) The car would crank easily but not start. I saw the oil pressure gauge go to 50-ish, so the auxiliary circuit should have closed (but maybe there's an issue with the oil pressure sensor/aux fuel pump circuit)
3) I didn't notice any fuel in the throttle body after repeated cranks.
4) The car would start when I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle body.
5) I then tried to check the voltage between the ALDL ground pin (bottom left as one looks at the connector) and the top right (tan/white). I never got more than like 0.3V, so that's not good and may be, according to the service manual, indicative of a bad relay.
I've ordered two relays (one spare) from Rockauto and will continue testing.
| quote | Originally posted by Rexgirl:
You can measure the resistance in ohms between the tan/white wire in the ALDL connector (behind the cigarette lighter) and the body of the car to check your repair. The reading should be under 100 ohms (probably quite a lot lower).
BTW, the male connector in your picture looks very dodgy and may not be reliable, even after cleaning. |
|
I agree it's less than a perfect connector but I got consistently less than 1 Ohm resistance for each of the lines passing through the connector. I'm thinking I might spring for the Fiero Store sender unit just to put all this to bed, if it turns out that that's the problem.
Again, I can't thank you all enough!
Geoff
|
|
|
|
V8Steve
|
JAN 06, 06:41 AM
|
|
|
|
|