PFF - Pennock's Fiero Forum, PDA Edition

Fiero No.2 - 88formula 3800/F23 swap (Page 12/15)

ignorant prodigy

APR 05, 08:40 PM

quote

Originally posted by ericjon262:

the trans can be filled from the allen bolt, I just checked on one of my F23's.

There are two electrical connections on the F23, the VSS, which is on top of the differential, and the reverse light switch, which is on the driver's side about the axle.

Edit:

you should definitely have copper washers on BOTH sides of the brake lines as well.

awesome thanks!

ericjon262

APR 07, 01:35 AM

for those requiring a visual of the proposed F23 fill location:

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

ignorant prodigy

APR 07, 02:13 AM

Here's the remaining harness connectors not currently plugged into anything.
the small blue one looks like it could be for the VSS or reverse, but the other pink/purple one doesn't quite look like it's for the transmission. I was thinking AC? I don't have one so I just assumed it was for that.
Neither come close to physical sensors, so if they're meant for it I'll need to extend them.

ericjon262

APR 07, 02:16 AM

The one on the right is the vss, the one on the left is the reverse lights.

ignorant prodigy

APR 07, 02:27 AM

quote

Originally posted by ericjon262:

The one on the right is the vss, the one on the left is the reverse lights.

Thanks Ericjon!

looks like I get to splice some more wires now.

ericjon262

APR 07, 02:36 AM

No prob, but I would highly recommend doing a continuity check between the connectors and PCM/ C500, before cutting anything, I was going off of just connector shape.

ignorant prodigy

APR 07, 01:49 PM

so, I think I have it all figured out.
I still need to do some continuity tests to confirm.

my previous photo was a couple years ago. Actually the 2 plugs not connected to anything where:

This one was actually plugged into the oil level sensor:

The 2 Ericjon told me were for the transmission are on the same section of harness... and when I disconnected the one in the oil level sensor they easily reach the VSS and Reverse light sensors on the transmission.. no splicing required.

That leaves me with this rogue sensor (I think is the AC connector - which I don't have AC so...)

Here is Rock Auto's AC connector:

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It also leaves me with no connector for the oil level sensor.
I looked it up on Rock Auto and here's what the photo they use for the oil level sensor:

Look familiar?:

And finally.. just to confirm I wasn't crazy... here is Rock Auto's F23 reverse light connector. They actually use the exact same stock image.

what does it all mean?
Well until I do the continuity test i can't be 100% certain... The one wrench in the whole thing (and the reason I still want to test the continuity) is that my clear PCM harness pin 6 is there.. and the wire is brown. My schematic says Pin 6 should be bwn/wht and is for the low oil lamp control....well the connector I had originally going to the low oil sensor (and now the reverse lights) is brown.. The missing piece to the puzzle for me is where should the reverse light wire be going? I think it's E1 from the C500? Need to confirm that.

but I think I just made the innocent mistake of plugging the reverse light sensor into the oil level sensor.
Since I don't have an AC I don't need this loose connector.. but I might as well leave it there zip tied.. doesn't hurt anything.

Also.. now my reverse lights went off once I plugged in that connector.. so that means it has to be right.. right?

ericjon262

APR 07, 02:04 PM

yeah, GM reuses some connectors on different parts, sounds like your oil level switch was passing power for the reverse lights. the connector used for the VSS also interchanges with some ECT and IAT connectors,. the random connector is almost definitely for AC, it's the only application I have every seen for that one. sounds like you're on the right track.

ignorant prodigy

APR 07, 05:39 PM

So apparently the drain plug on the transmission was stripped.
Being the man I am.. I made it worse of course.

Because of the precarious position of this plug, I was limited to the tools I could use.
I wound up getting an alan wrench in it and used a screw driver like a pry bar to wedge it in as far as I could, then used the back end of a wrench to give myself leverage. Once my muscle got weak.. I used a mallet to whack the stupid thing.. and it cracked loose.

That wasn't the first thing I tried.. probably spent an hour trying to get it out.

Luckily I have a spare F23 because of all the mount issues I was having... so I just poached a good one from that.
I'll let you guess which was bad.

Pretty much all that's left before a test drive is torquing down the axel nuts.
Just a quick cold start video. Going to rain and drop back down into the 40's the next few days so probably not going to be wrenching.

ignorant prodigy

APR 08, 07:24 PM

went to put on my centerlines and discovered they barely fit over the studs. not enough threads for the lug nuts to use.

This is the stock wheel. My scientific measurement of 1 index knuckle shows small the distance between the wheel and the lugnut is

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This is the centerline, which is roughly 2 index knuckles

So I stole my wife little ruler thing from her sewing box to try and get more official measurements.
With the rotor on, there's roughly 22mm of stud available

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The centerlines have these long lug nuts with washers. I fully threaded them to see how much stud length I have available
They come just shy of the rotor.. so roughly 20mm

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The inside of the centerline had a lip, which is how far the lugnuts can travel into the wheel. the distance between that lip at the back of the wheel that hits the rotor is roughly 21mm

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So what does all this mean?
With 22mm stud available minus 20mm width of the wheel.. I'm left with roughly 2mm of threads for my lug nuts
That leaves about 18mm of empty space left for my lug nuts to thread.

The question is.. do I try and shoot for the full 18.. or come shy of that? If I shoot for shy of that.. how much shy is safe?

The stock stud I believe is 41.5mm long.
I think the next size up is 54mm. That's 12.5mm more. That brings a total of 14.5mm of stud to thread. Is that enough? My stud allows for 20mm, so I would have roughly 5.5mm left.

I should mention I only measured the front studs.. not sure if there's a difference between the front and the rear.