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CODE 32 answers. dialup warning pics (Page 18/18) |
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RPYRAZOO
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NOV 16, 10:44 AM
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To eliminate the Code 32, how about installing a V-6 EGR Block Off Kit offered by Black Top Racing? I don't know if this unit is produced for "daily driver" cars or track use only, but it's ALOT cheaper than the $255.00 for a new EGR vacuum solenoid. Thanks, Rich
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theogre
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NOV 16, 12:30 PM
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quote | Originally posted by RPYRAZOO: To eliminate the Code 32, how about installing a V-6 EGR Block Off Kit offered by Black Top Racing? I don't know if this unit is produced for "daily driver" cars or track use only, but it's ALOT cheaper than the $255.00 for a new EGR vacuum solenoid. Thanks, Rich |
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BTR and other Vendors are out to make $ and doesn't give a crap selling many things illegal. This is just one of these because they very well know elimination of Emission Devices is illegal in most US states and in other countries. Some vendors hide behind statements like "Check legal local laws" but many don't bother. Even local auto parts and others stores have products mark "off road use only" etc. Often in small print on the back of packages.
Depending on Emission Tests, you can expect to fail when state/country require two speed test for old cars. Two speed test is trying to see EGR function work or not by watching NOx #.
Block ERG port has nothing to do w/ DTC 32. In a nutshell... DTC 32 is set when Vac switch is on or off when ECM think should be off or on. (the exact opposite.) The switch is feedback to see function of the solenoid valve.[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 11-17-2016).]
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2.5
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NOV 16, 01:13 PM
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quote | Originally posted by theogre:
BTR and other Vendors are out to make $ and doesn't give a crap selling many things illegal. This is just one of these because they very well know elimination of Emission Devices is illegal in most US states and in other countries. Some vendors hide behind statements like "Check legal laws" but many don't bother. Even local auto parts and others stores have products mark "off road use only" etc. Often in small print on the back of packages.
Depending on Emission Tests, you can expect to fail when state/country require two speed test for old cars. Two speed test is trying to see EGR function work or not by watching NOx #.
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Luckily in free America the buyer dictates what makes enough money to be sold.
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theogre
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NOV 16, 04:59 PM
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quote | Originally posted by 2.5: Luckily in free America the buyer dictates what makes enough money to be sold. |
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Big problem with that claim... Most buyers have no clue many parts are illegal and often unsafe. Vendors and Stores will sell any crap until sued by FTC or buyers, or recalled by NHTSA. Recall orders mostly affect the manufacturers. Stores might pull inventory but have little to no risk for selling and often just sell same crap from another manufacturer.
Example: Pilot LED bulbs sold thru Many stores have "Check local and state laws before installing this product on your vehicle" only on back at bottom partly hidden by back blister.
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I doubt most buyers read the back or if they do have no clue what this means. Worse... You must read and understand spec for this, available only online, to know their bulb is allot dimmer then Normal bulb. LED is just 180 Lumens (lm) max (1157 amber, red and white are same spec) but normal 1157 bulb is 402 & 38 lm When used on old cars, LED often have color match problems w/ colored fixtures making output more dim in many cases.
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phonedawgz
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NOV 16, 08:12 PM
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Blocking off the EGR won't solve your Code 32 problem. Code 32 indicates a problem with the EGR activation system. It does not indicate a problem with the actual EGR valve.
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RPYRAZOO
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NOV 16, 08:24 PM
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Thanks for the info.----no egr delete kit. Rich
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WhiteFormula
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OCT 09, 01:21 PM
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So, I've been chasing this all year. Time to get it sorted.
I had a code 32, and found that if I capped two of the three openings in the solenoid and put a vacuum gauge/hand pump on the third, it was leaking air. Disassembling the solenoid, I found that the rubber O ring at the plastic end had dried out, and after attempting to seal it multiple ways, ultimately found an O ring that did the trick. After putting everything back together, I get a chuggle/surging feeling driving at constant, lower speeds (especially around 1500 RPM). This happens both below and at operating temperature. If I swap out the EGR solenoid for one I borrowed, everything runs smoothly. Capping the EGR solenoid line (and doing nothing else), also works, and no code 32 is set there, either, which suggests to me that the switch is being opened as expected by the ECM.
As a final test, I pulled the EGR valve vacuum fitting (at the EGR valve) and found that, in park, if I raise RPMs, I get vacuum at the EGR valve. Reading through this thread and the service manual, I can't determine if I should *never* have vacuum at the EGR valve in park, or only at idle.
Any ideas?[This message has been edited by WhiteFormula (edited 10-09-2017).]
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SamanthaM
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APR 02, 12:19 PM
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So while in the process of replacing the temp sensor, I had to remove the EGR valve control solenoid and noticed the single vacuum hose on the end pointing toward the front of the car is completely rotten. I did read all the way through and I do now see where that rubber line connects, but my question is about the size and length of that hose so I can try to replace it?
I know if I go to the parts store and ask them, they will give me that deer in a headlight look and I am soooooo tired of that look. Please, any help is much appreciated.
EDIT: I finally got the rotten hose off and it is a 7/32". BTW, it is a total pain in the a$$ getting it off the metal piece on the firewall![This message has been edited by SamanthaM (edited 04-02-2020).]
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Patrick
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JUL 13, 04:56 PM
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[EDIT] Ooops, too many threads open!
But it's an informative thread to being back to the top, even if done by accident. [This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-13-2024).]
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