Of course, there is NO WAY, I'm going to put this shiny new engine in a DIRTY engine bay (seen many who do though)

This pic is AFTER the dirty old original insulation and extra clutter has been removed.


The engine bay was sprayed and scrubbed of oil, grease and crud. Then scrubbed again with Acetone and a RED scrub pad.
Do it long enough, and it will leave a good dull and clean surface to spray-bomb the engine bay. I went with VHT Gloss Black.

For a replacement for the firewall insulation, I went with B-Quiet's Hood Liner product http://www.b-quiet.com/hliner.html
WHY can't someone make these liner products with BLACK colored aluminum foil?

"Peel and stick" can be a problem when maneouvering such a large piece - it stick's to whatever it touches.
I forgot to use the window tinter's trick of wetting things down with a mist of light soapy water.

But I managed to get it in. Still a lot of clutter on the firewall side, but most can't be seen once engine is back in.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

I decided it was time to move to rear coil-overs for the adjustability.
The rear lowering springs were starting to sag a bit.

I got this kit from http://arrautmotorsports.co...pension-information/


These are 275# 12" long springs and require that the strut's spring perches be cut off.



After clean up and some paint, it's time to assemble the coil-overs.



They look pretty good installed on the car. Adjustment is needed after seeing how it sits on the ground.



I also installed new grease-able Energy Suspension sway bar poly bushings on the rear bar (this is a 22mm Herb Adams bar from way back)

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

Something was odd with my rack. I think it was "worn in the center". Adjustment of the pinion didn't help.
Since I would need an alignment anyway.... and my steering felt terrible.... replace it!

NO RACKS available in Canada. I also hard a hard time finding axles last year too! Parts are running out guys.

I had to source it from from the States at a huge "extra cost"
(shipping is never Free to Canadians - even had to pay to ship the core back)
http://www.carsteering.com/...g_Rack/80-70020.html

So, I got the rack from Car Steering - looked good, and it seemed OK - it's "new" right?
I installed it with new tie rod ends from Rodney Dickman, and everything went together and felt OK - as it should.

I got it aligned today. It works great. Light effort, good feel etc.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 06-24-2013).]

Pretty pizzed off with this rack from carsteering.com
I paid a "premium" to get this (all shipping - even to return my core) and it's crap!

Two weeks after getting my alignment I noticed a rattle in the driver's side front end.
It eventually turned out to be from the upper control arm bolt and that is resolved now.

BUT while looking for the source of the rattle - I found that the inner tie-rod end had some play in it too. This "rebuilt" rack ISN'T.
The driver's side inner tie-red is worn out, and the passenger's side was hard to move and didn't move smoothly (old parts).
I had installed new outer tie-rod ends when I installed the rack, but that's not much good if inner is rusty/worn out.



New inner tie-rod is $22 retail. carsteering.com should be replacing these as a matter of course on a "rebuilt" rack - not only "if needed".
They saved a couple bucks on their cost, but it's cost me $50 + time to replace these, AND I need another alignment!

They will be getting a stern letter from me! PS - the rack itself seems OK.
The left piece came off my "rebuilt steering rack".

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 07-13-2020).]

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

Just a heads up.

Rockauto Clutch fork for 1987 MG2 transmission - ONLY $44.80 ($233 at Fiero Store)
http://www.rockauto.com/cat...249152,parttype,1992

An ATP part ZA-135 http://www.showmetheparts.com/ATP/

They don't have a fork of the 2nd design (needle bearing at bottom)
That looks like this http://www.oehq.com/oeparts_ACD8672942.htm


Yay - only 4 months of winter left

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]

quote Originally posted by fierosound: I'm documenting the work on this "go around" for my next appraisal. The cause of the problem - WHY the engine/transmission was pulled. This thing collapsed while sitting at a light and I just felt the car creep ahead slightly (I thought the hydraulics were going). But the pressure plate fingers rubbing on the bearing cooked the grease in it fairly quickly! What a stench! There are downsides to a "heavy clutch" (Spec Stage 2) - that's a lot of pressure. By comparison, the Bully Clutch Stage 3 I replaced it with is very light. www.bullyclutch.com

Thanks for sharing... Very good info in the documentation.

One thing though, are you sure that old TO bearing is a getrag part? The "ears" seem very different on the old destroyed
bearing.

Yes, and its advised that the parts for fieros are drying up on shelves everywhere. For GM, many years ago. Now the aftermarket
is coming too.

I bet you need to watch the parts for the clutch related suppliers. I don't think the fiero store has the original clutch fork getrag parts.
They are aftermarket...please confirm if I'm wrong. You'd expect for that price they would be genuine GM parts.

Nice catch on the cooling thermostat gasket...TFS does actually have some parts that nobody else has, even if they are in the US.

We have to keep supporting them...which I've been doing dearly for many years after many thousand dollars spent.

------------------

fierogt28

88 GT, Loaded, 5-speed.
88 GT, 5-speed. Beechwood interior, All original.

[This message has been edited by fierosound (edited 09-02-2023).]