Gas pedal broken again! (Page 2/2)
theogre APR 14, 04:10 PM

quote
Originally posted by sardonyx247:
Out of the over 160 Fieros we have gone through and the over 150 members we have/had in town I have yet to ever see a broken gas pedal.


OE pedals can break over time just from spring load.
If you look, many are close to breaking.
watch the pin and clip on left side of pedal. Now squish spring to pedal front. See them move?
The whole clip should be on pedal but plastic hole now oval shaped from spring load because Left side of Spring pushes on plastic next to hole in plastic. (Right side moves too but much less obvious most times.)
This example one I have only a little plastic left before it breaks. (Thanks Macarchie for this example. Donations of old, even "dead," parts are handy.)



(I did some scratches to remove the clip.)


A view from the back.

Can you fix old pedals? Maybe but you're taking chances that many don't need the headaches later if your DIY fix causes a wreck.

I did look at Dorman... nothing. I did find 20760 but said won't work.
Did quick search # on back... 10023366... nothing.


quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:
I ave one of those 'feet' in chrome setting on a shelf. It mounts on an existing pedal though, no hinge or bracket. Free except shipping.


yup... Most aftermarket ones are like that.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-08-2024).]

theogre APR 15, 10:22 AM
This is why you never use wet lube on parts exposed to dirt.

(I found this later and I thought people should know.)

Dirt will accelerate grinding the hole in plastic and the hard spring cut into the steel pin. To make the problem worse, someone used wet lube that traps even more dirt.

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 05-08-2024).]

rogergarrison APR 15, 11:25 AM
Why cant you epoxy and rivet a metal plate on the plastic pedal at both sides ? Then drill them for the shaft to go thru...even larger and put a brass door pin bushing in them...?
theogre APR 15, 08:11 PM

quote
Originally posted by rogergarrison:
Why cant you epoxy and rivet a metal plate on the plastic pedal at both sides ? Then drill them for the shaft to go thru...even larger and put a brass door pin bushing in them...?


Glue/epoxy won't stick to polypropylene. (The PP below the part number in images above. GM is good as labeling plastic parts as to what kind of plastic.)
Hinge bushings are likely too big.

Polypropylene is easy to weld but doing this on the gas pedal is a lot harder than many Internet directions would say because the spring puts a lot of load on the weld itself. This means any defect and the weld would break likely soon.
pgold APR 15, 10:34 PM
Given time and many more miles and i think many of you will end up with a broken pedal. Nothing last forever and there is a lot of stress on that little pedel.
Im not really into the whole little foot thing I'm looking for more of a standard shaped pedal with a billet look. Thanks for all the advice.
sricka01 APR 16, 01:49 AM
I recently found a 2nd broken pedal on my 88 GT that was broken from prior owner. If I recall, got the replacement from fierostore. But they don't carry them anymore? I looked at the replacement I had installed, and it cracked where the metal foot slips through. I am not rough on my car either. Just a very soft plastic. :/
sardonyx247 APR 16, 05:02 AM
Hell, I took a torch and bent my pedal and I still don't have problems, that was like 8 years ago. (To fit a chrome one)
He has access to more pedals then he could ever use right here in town. no need for after market.
theogre APR 16, 10:05 AM

quote
Originally posted by pgold:
Given time and many more miles and i think many of you will end up with a broken pedal. Nothing last forever and there is a lot of stress on that little pedel.


Maybe...
Mine is worn but not as bad as example images above. Car has ~220,000 miles.
theogre MAY 09, 02:08 AM
Update: I restored the pic's for above lost by old PFF Image server & add this for the Bearing Block holding the pedal.
Why? If you have the problem above then very likely the Block has problems too.

⚠️ Warning: The Block like brake/clutch pedal bushings have No Lube. If you lube the parts, use Dry Teflon on the Metal then allow the lube to Dry.
If already has wet lube then plan to get another set.

First is how the block as installed. When you push the pedal the rod/arm pulls the cable to floor too. Note: Most pedal assemblies have 1 or 2 clip nuts to keep the part together @ the factory. If there missing very likely the part was taken apart before. The Roll Pin just keeps the Rod centered.


This is the Rod & plastic w/ cover off showing some wear on the rod. Notice only parts of the plastic contacts with the rod.


Larger Problem is the load tries to twist the rod so on pedal side rod wears the plastic but other side rod wears the metal cover.


To check the plastic for wear issues...


How to fix the plastic?
Not sure. The plastic is likely Not Polypropylene so can't just "weld" new PP in the worn spot. (For people that work on plastic a lot, just doesn't feel or look like most PP or ABS parts.)
For a temp fix, In my case Most of the wear was on the plastic curve so I put a piece of Nylon Zip Tie in between plastic & rod on the pedal side until I got a better used pedal assembly. Tension just holds the strip in there.

Markings? Only ones seen are...

Besides the Part # I have no clue what others mean. GM Plastic Types I've seen don't use Periods & never seen P.O.M. as a GM division or contractor. All you get searching plastic types are the fake "recycle" marks so even if "square W" is the plastic good luck finding that now.