Car sputters under acceleration (Page 2/3)
Cliff Pennock AUG 18, 05:44 AM
I wanted to clean the spark plug wires so I could spray some water resisting stuff on it.When I pulled the #3 wire, I just had the wire in my hand and the connector was still on the spark plug. I repaired the cable and put it back. Also the main distributor cable was terribly rusted at the distributor end. I was amazed I had some spark at all. I cleaned out the rust using a Dremel and refitted the cable.

I drove the car to see if that solved the problem. The first few minutes I thought the problem was indeed solved but after that it started to sputter again. Not as bad as before, but it still did it. I haven't checked cable #2, 4 and 6 yet, nor the inside of the distributor cap itself.
theogre AUG 18, 04:30 PM
anytime you think have ignition problem first unplug tack filter then re test.
if gone discon the tack from I-coil or ICM.
shorten/damage tack or filter can cause many problems.
see HEI in engine section in my cave.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

Cliff Pennock AUG 19, 07:08 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

anytime you think have ignition problem first unplug tack filter then re test.



Disconnecting the tach filter made no difference...
Cliff Pennock AUG 20, 04:05 AM
I had a look inside the distributor cap and saw this:



I'm not sure if you can see it, but the pin in the middle is actually recessed so I'm pretty sure it does not make contact with the rotor arm.

Could that cause the problem?
Cliff Pennock AUG 20, 05:07 AM
PS: Already ordered a new distributor cap and rotor arm so either way it's going to be replaced.
David Hambleton AUG 20, 09:14 AM
You could try cleaning the perimeter posts - they look a little worn... & get the dust & debris out.
I've done that many times in the last 36 years to eliminate mis-fire issues. It frequently delayed replacing the cap for months/years.
Cliff Pennock AUG 27, 03:54 AM
Replaced the distributor cap and rotor today. The first few minutes it seemed that the problem was still there but after the engine heated up a bit, it was almost completely gone. Only every now and then there was a slight sputter. So the increased spark seems to have helped a bit.

With the engine running, I wanted to make sure the spark plug wires where seated properly but upon touching the black rubber boot on the distributor cap side (which was wire #3), I immediately got a shock. The wires weren't wet or damp so I was a bit surprised that merely touching the boot would give me a shock.

Does that mean the wire might be faulty and isn't conducting the electricity as it is supposed to? I mean, if going through rubber and my body is the path of least resistance, then somebody must be wrong, no?
Cliff Pennock AUG 27, 03:58 AM
Also, the new cap + rotor apparently introduced a lot if electrical interference/noise since my digital dashboard is now constantly resetting itself and displaying wrong values.
Patrick AUG 27, 12:51 PM

I'd hazard to guess that it's your spark plug wires which are causing these latest issues.
fierofool AUG 27, 07:27 PM
Cliff, something I would suggest to prevent pulling the wires apart when removing the boot from the plug is to put a liberal amount of dielectric grease inside the opening in the boot. Then, use the metal shields on the boot. The metal shields are a good tool for twisting the boot to break any bond between it and the plug before pulling them off the plug. The dielectrc will prevent shorts on the front plugs, and will help reduce the possibility of the boot bonding to the plug. I learned the hard way when all of my front (2,4,6) boots broke in half. It's more than a PITA to get the end of the boot off those plugs.