Caliper pin removal demonstration using the right tool (Page 2/2)
jdv NOV 11, 09:48 PM

quote
Originally posted by oneinch:

First, I want to point out that my OP was just demonstrating pulling the pins using the correct tool. That's it. Nothing else.



Thanks for the info but as always someone has a better way to do IT. Doesn't matter if you do an incredible swap they have a better way to do it.
fieroguru NOV 12, 08:18 PM
There are several reasons people have migrated to just removing the 2 bridge bolts and keeping the pins installed in the caliper body.

1. The backing plate of the pad can rust below the bridge surface and make that portion of the pad wider than the opening in the bridge for it to pass through, which can make it difficult to pull the pads out the top.
2. Many aftermarket pads need a little clearancing of the sides to fit properly in the bridge. Doing the test fit and addressing any clearance work is easier to do with the bridge off the car.
3. Installing the pins and pads with the rotor and caliper on the car requires holding the pads in place, sliding the pins through the bridge, and installing the clips/springs really could use a 3rd hand.
4. The proper way to do a brake job is to also resurface the rotors or replace them along with the pad. Since the rotor can't come off with caliper in place, you have to remove 2 bolts from the caliper, but now you have a choice.

To remove the rotors, you must do one of these two items.
Remove the 2 caliper to knuckle bolts.
Remove the 2 caliper to bridge bolts.

It is the same work to remove 2 bolts, but removing the bridge bolts changes how the pads need to be removed as well as reinstalled. The bridge is relatively loose to the pins, so it will normally slide off and keep the pins in the caliper body. This allows the outer pad to slide off the 2 pins, rotor to be pulled off, and the inboard pad to be slid off. While the bridge is off the car, you can test fit the pads into the bridge slot and make any needed clearance adjustments (this is often needed with aftermarket pads). When you are ready to install the everything, just line up the inboard pad with its spring/clip to the 2 pins, and slide it in place. Install the rotor, then install the outboard pad the same as the inboard. Last is installing the bridge over the pads and lining up the two pins. The bolts can be used to pull it all together and fully insert the pins in the bridge.

So while the slide hammer and special tool makes it easier to remove the pins (I don't think anyone is disputing this), this is only one step in the overall brake job process. Removing the 2 bolts from the bridge eliminates the need to remove the pins from the caliper body, reduces challenges with the pad removal, gives you better access to do any needed pad clearancing, and makes it easier to install the pads and springs/clips.

[This message has been edited by fieroguru (edited 11-12-2020).]