Need Plan of Attack To Remove Complete Front Suspension from a Junkyard Fiero (Page 2/3)
reinhart APR 30, 06:18 AM

quote
Originally posted by cvxjet:

A) Remove brake calipers, B) Remove suspension (A-arms/Spindle/spring) from each side, C) remove Rack & Pinion, D) Support crossmember with jack stands or wood supports, E) Remove last 4 bolts, then allow crossmember to drop to ground, F) Carry each separate part to truck.

Oh, yes, G) Don't drop any of these on your foot (Unless wearing steel-toed shoes)



Haha well yea there's that. I was trying to get everything together and hopefully be charged less that if I have it all sitting there in separate pieces
. And also avoid the extra work of removing everything separately.
cvxjet APR 30, 11:59 AM
If you were closer I would help you with it but (also) I can't be out in the sun because of Lupus. A proper cart would help you a lot- Even if you have to dis-assemble to drop it safely, you could then re-assemble before purchasing it.
skywurz APR 30, 01:45 PM
If you had some ratchet straps you could probably lower it with those. and by lower it i mean secure it so you dont drop it on your head then just drop it out of the bottom when you are clear. . With a set of spare tires on it the complete unit is probably 140lbs I was able to lift it and put it onto a flatbed garden cart from HF. The 88 i swear is heavier than the pre 88. Still not sure what one you are planning to drop.

if it has tires on it you could probably just roll it out as a full unit. I have rolled a couple around the yard this way.

But the front is the last I drop on my part-outs.. The reason is I don't like crawling under cars. So what i do is once its stripped with just the bits of spaceframe and front suspension I ratchet it vertical into a tree. with the car now at a 90 degree angle on what used to be its front bumper i can access all of the lower suspension bolts with my impact. it then flops out onto the ground and I can roll it away... except that one time it got stuck because one side dropped faster. <--- this is the warning of my story.
mmeyer86gt/gtp APR 30, 05:27 PM
i did this on an 87

cut caliper lines
remove sway bar from the car not the suspension
remove the 2 front bars
unbolt back a arm from frame
unbolt the 4 bottom bolts holding the assembly in
remove 2 of the 3 bolts on both sides on the k member
stick a jack under the k member drivers side
remove the drivers side last bolt
drop the jack move to the passenger side
unbolt the column from inside the car the 11mm on the column
place jack to support the whole k member unbolt the last bolt on the passenger side then the whole assembly is out.

a-arms, calipers, hubs, all come out as one unit. you can lift it with the sway bar and carry it the links are still attached to the a-arms
you replace the sway bar links when you get new bushings.
reinhart MAY 01, 05:20 AM
This particular yard is a disaster. It's like a big tar pit. The Fiero is in the very farthest part of the yard and the entire way to and from it is coated in tar. There are shopping carts available with front wheels that are literally coming apart. I was just pushing a cart with my tool box a door glass and a brake caliper and it and the front of the cart would not move. I literally had to lift the cart and shimmy it until finally I gave up and pulled the cart backwards the entire way out of the yard. The pavement if you can call it that is riddled with holes and other obstacles. It literally took me 15 minutes to get my cart to the front area from the back and I was winded like I had just run a half marathon. So anything particularly heavy is a big problem here.

The conditions here make it extremely challenging. I have been to many other yards where they had proper flat carts and cherry pickers for free. This yard has pickers but they are rentals by the half hour. Also prices are not reasonable. For instance they want $150 for the crossmember bare. I already shelled out about $120 for two rear calipers and rotors. They charged me $20 for a dog bone.
Tony Santucci MAY 02, 01:14 PM

quote
Originally posted by reinhart:
The conditions here make it extremely challenging. I have been to many other yards where they had proper flat carts and cherry pickers for free. This yard has pickers but they are rentals by the half hour. Also prices are not reasonable. For instance they want $150 for the crossmember bare. I already shelled out about $120 for two rear calipers and rotors. They charged me $20 for a dog bone.




I would stop shopping there. $20 for a used dog bone is highway robbery!


skywurz MAY 02, 02:31 PM

quote
Originally posted by Tony Santucci:
I would stop shopping there. $20 for a used dog bone is highway robbery!




Actually have to second this. Sounds like a horrible place. You can get a new polly dog bone from tfs for $50.
reinhart MAY 02, 11:51 PM

quote
Originally posted by skywurz:


Actually have to second this. Sounds like a horrible place. You can get a new polly dog bone from tfs for $50.



Totally agree. I would have told them to shove it but it was a Fiero Store poly dogbone Not that they changed the price because they knew that.
reinhart MAY 07, 05:12 AM
Junkyard Update:

The car is a nearly rustless 88. Some of the parts were insanely clean (embarrassing when the junkyard car has a lot of better parts than yours?).

This was my first junkyard visit in 25 years.

What I grabbed:

- Center skeleton: I've never seen a more perfect skeleton even when I had opened one of my own up when it was just 10 years old. This skeleton was absolutely mint. Not a single bolt hole or bulb hole was cracked, brittle or anything. i was in shock! Literally perfect condition. And no one had torn into it before I got to it.

- Center console: Non warped gray: glove box was warped though. There was another Fiero that I grabbed a second console from that I'm going to paint beechwood. Anyone know if the 88 beechwood paint formula listed on the forums here is for the darker or light shade in the 88 beechwood?

- Driver's door hinges: I've never had any luck with finding good driver's hinges. This junkyard door was as smooth as butter. I could literally gently push the door and release it a few inches away and it closed smoothly and quietly with an index finger. It was smoother than two of my Fieros. Should have grabbed the latch bolt but forgot. Can always get one from the passenger door on another Fiero.

- Decklid hinges and torsion rods (I just replaced a torsion rod so it reminded me they do fail occasionally...my first failed rod ever, but now I have two sets of spare white rods). Interestingly it was a coupe with spoiler. I believe it was factory unless the owner added the wing and changed the torsion rods as well. The sticker was unreadable.

- All 4 brake rotors

- Rear brake calipers (did not take the front brakes since I have like 8 calipersonline new calipers). The brakes were in amazing shape. Both rears retracted easily to the stops. Looked factory new as well (not rebuilt). Original brake lines I at first thought were an upgrade kit because they were so clean.

- Entire front suspension and steering rack (rack had some passenger side play...assuming it was the side bushing). I believe the consensus is that all 88's used the same rack? Hopefully it will be the same as my GT racks. (Left the front sway bar...they wanted $30 for it)

- 4 cyl (Fiero Store?) Dog Bone with poly

- Rear marker lights. The fronts were intact in the original picture at the yard but someone apparently wanted a few 10 cent bulbs and broke them both and left them on the ground. Unfortunate because I really need a LF.

- E-Brake handle. Was thinking I should have grabbed the cables. The e-brake was sooo smooth.

- Drivers door glass. Unfortunately it was tinted (really well I might add). I've managed to get about half of the tint off so far but it's really on there good. Has a few scratches from the felt wipes but it's better than one of my Fieros.

- Headlight control module

- Decklid / rear window recall weather seal and clips


The car had some bad undercarriage damage toward the rear. The front was unaffected but the rear had both rear-most suspension trailing arms bent. The adjustable arms on one side looked slightly bent and the long ones looked ok but I didn't want to risk taking any of those esp. given the prices.

I believe this Fiero had to have been garage kept until its untimely crash. I just can't see it having had such clean parts like the skeleton with it being out in the CA sun. Mileage had to have been low as well but it didn't have an instrument cluster left when I got there on its second day in the yard so I don't know the mileage.

So I ended up just removing everything piecemeal. I ended making 4 trips to that yard. There was one wheel with locks I had to forcibly remove. Both upper shock bolts stripped out (per usual). Both had to be cut off which was quite a pain doing in the yard. At home it would have been gone in 5 min with a cut off wheel.

For those that are wondering: Yes a bare 88 Crossmember will fit inside some Fieros.

And to the person that said the crossmember was about 20 pounds...LOL it was super heavy. Weighed when I got home and it was 52 pounds (bare no sway bar or anything). Fully loaded the front end would have been 180 pounds easy. I used those tie down straps that I had bought for a torsion rod change a few weeks ago. They were invaluable in the junkyard. I used them probably 6 times.

The coolant pipes weren't a problem. I was able to easily twist them 45 degrees inward so the middle rotated nearly touching the ground. I didn't remove the rear hoses just the front and they turned rather easy. I would have taken them (I think I could have slid them out from under the rims the yard placed the car on) but the front sections were slightly dented (not the normal rear jack bends).

The steering rack to column bolt was in a bad angle and I stripped it out really good two visits ago. Harbor Freight has a stripped bolt socket set that was amazing. It turned out so easy. The kit is $30 for like 10 sockets bu well worth it. It's only missing a few Fiero sizes (15mm I think or maybe it was 17mm?).

Everything was super expensive for a pick your part. The only thing I caught a break on was I convinced the cashier that the crossmember was a "transmission crossmember" as opposed to a K-frame/Crossmember ($50 vs $150). I ended up shelling out about $600 for everything so obviously I could have bought a parts car for that much but I have nowhere to store it.

Again thanks for all the tips. So I didn't have to rent a truck or a cherry picker but had to break everything down to make it manageable.

[This message has been edited by reinhart (edited 05-07-2021).]

skywurz MAY 07, 11:13 AM
The 88 Crossmember is bigger and beefier than the pre 88. I think i mentioned that.
Because you didn't mention year you got mixed feedback. The 88 mounts way different than the pre 88. Also you should have checked the RPO tag on that car because there is a steering rack that has a different ratio. Also could have sent the VIN to 88 database guy....

Other than that good work. Hopefully you left the front calipers in or near the car so if someone needs them.