Fan switch sensor removal??? (Page 2/3)
branger OCT 10, 07:12 PM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Good move. It works well.



Hey Patrick, finally got the 210 fan switch from Dickman's…. Doesn’t even come close to fitting. I have the 1986 2M6…. Advice? Check the attached pic…

[This message has been edited by branger (edited 10-10-2021).]

Patrick OCT 10, 08:41 PM

quote
Originally posted by branger:

Hey Patrick, finally got the 210 fan switch from Dickman's…. Doesn’t even come close to fitting. I have the 1986 2M6…. Advice?



It's been a few years since I've installed Rodney's fan switches in a couple of my Fieros (a 2.5 and a 2.8), so I can't say for sure whether they looked exactly like what you've posted there... but what is the problem? Doesn't that new switch fit in the hole?

I can't imagine Rodney would've started supplying fan switches that no longer fit. Makes no sense!

These are the images from Rodney's site. How is your situation different?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-10-2021).]

Xenoblast OCT 10, 10:14 PM

quote
Originally posted by branger:

Hey Patrick, finally got the 210 fan switch from Dickman's…. Doesn’t even come close to fitting. I have the 1986 2M6…. Advice? Check the attached pic…




I have the same fan switch, yes its supposed to look like that. The threads are the same so just screw it in and dont think about the sensor size difference
Skybax OCT 11, 12:35 AM
Correct, the aftermarket fan switch bottom that touches the antifreeze is larger that original (thread size same) and that 210 fan switch is actually closer to 215 ON and 205 OFF which I like even better (original is 235 ON). Its also worth noting, most folks use a 180 stat with that 210 fan switch, but you can still use the stock 195 stat. The 180 stat will average only slightly cooler temps (5 to 10 degrees) and slightly richer mixture than 195 stat, which is exactly what I want on my 36 year old engine approaching 100k miles with carbon buildup, and fans never let temps exceed 215.
Patrick OCT 11, 03:43 AM

quote
Originally posted by Skybax:

Its also worth noting, most folks use a 180 stat with that 210 fan switch, but you can still use the stock 195 stat.



"Most"? I've never seen a poll done on that (I and many others who've posted here prefer the 195° thermostat)... but I think we can all agree that this 210° fan switch is superior to the factory one in regards to keeping coolant temperatures under control.

theogre OCT 11, 10:52 AM

quote
Originally posted by branger:

Hey Patrick, finally got the 210 fan switch from Dickman's…. Doesn’t even come close to fitting. I have the 1986 2M6…. Advice? Check the attached pic…


quote
Originally posted by Patrick:
These are the images from Rodney's site. How is your situation different?

My only issue is because much larger vs OE and No-one looked at the intake when installed or check engine temps other then watching Dash Gauge or scan ECM data stream.

Why?
That bulk may restrict coolant flow to one head and block (the front/left side I think) making them hotter then the other.
1. Dash gauges are famous for lying to start and lean heavy to front/left because of sender location.
2. ECM ECT reads coolant output at T-stat and doesn't see hot spots.
3. You can bet that RD and any others selling them Did Not bother to check this.

Yes, "back then" first started selling this cheap IR units and Bore Scope Cameras didn't exist but getting other contact thermometers was easy and often cheap to get yet no-one spend the money or time to check the engine before and after they install that...

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave

branger OCT 11, 03:09 PM
So one important point to note when I installed the newer one, with the thicker brass bottom. It did not seem to fit as the base was thicker and I didn’t realize both original and replacement had the same thread size/diameter. I think with the fatter brass base, there was no room for coolant displacement. I then, took some paper towel and took some coolant out and new sensor fit fine. Hopefully it will do the trick. I’m gonna wait 24 hours for the thread sealant to harden before testing. 🤞
Patrick OCT 11, 04:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by branger:

I think with the fatter brass base, there was no room for coolant displacement. I then, took some paper towel and took some coolant out and new sensor fit fine.



You couldn't push the switch down and displace half a teaspoon of coolant? Time to hit the gym!
branger OCT 12, 12:38 AM
I have a tendency of breaking things, like over torquing things, every time I try to force something… broken. I’d rather be cautious, then replace a stripped out whatever…. My first three wheeler, after oil change, stripped out the oil pan plug in about 4 seconds… maybe hit the gym too much. Lol.
fierofool OCT 12, 08:55 AM
I wholly agree with Patrick on using the 195 thermostat. It allows the engine to run in its proper temp range and go into closed loop. In open loop the ecm is feeding a much richer fuel mixture.

The switch and thermostat combo resolved my overheating issue on a V6 with partially crushed coolant tubes.

If you can find one, get the Stant Super Stat. Better quality.