 
     |
| No start after engine cleaning (Page 2/4) |
|
Gall757
|
APR 15, 07:07 PM
|
|
To recap......you used to live in Arizona, and moved to Louisiana...and it's raining. Do i have that right? Did the car move with you? It's in shock.... 
|
|
|
|
gatorfrey
|
APR 15, 07:55 PM
|
|
|
|
|
Patrick
|
APR 15, 10:01 PM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by gatorfrey:
What does that black plug from the coil to the base of the distributor do?. And why is nothing coming out of the coil to distributor ?
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by gatorfrey:
Surprised no one knows what the wire from coil to distributor base is for....
|
|
Post a picture so we know what you're talking about![This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-15-2022).]
|
|
|
|
Gall757
|
APR 15, 10:06 PM
|
|
|
I bet the spark plug wires are all dry and cracked. When it is dark out, look for arcing on the plug wires when you crank the starter.
|
|
|
|
gatorfrey
|
APR 16, 01:06 AM
|
|
Spark plug wires don't look old at all. Still supple. And no arching. I bet they cannot be 2 years old tops.
It ran pretty strong up to when I washed it.Then suddenly,turns over, no start.
It's dark out right now (car is still sitting in the yard where I washed it down.
But there are only 3 electrical exits from the coil. The obvious one, going to the center cap, and 2 more plugs on top of the coil.
One has a grey socket. It goes to the engine harness under the intake next to the valve cover going toward the passenger side.
The other, goes directly to the base of the distributor. That one is always dead on a multimeter. I strongly suspect all 2.8 engines are the same there. A 3.4 can look exactly like a 2.8 externally on the topside.The harness looks factory. All of it.
I am curious why that wire is always dead. Pulling the cap, yet again, the plug appears to go to a module of some kind in the base of the distributor.
When you lift the decklid, and look at the coil/distributor area, you see it in seconds, even if you never looked for it before.
I could be wrong, but I am beginning to speculate the plug going between the two is some kind of pass through. And I may need to replace that distributor.
I kinda hoped someone with a shop manual or experience would jump in here.
I have 30 years dealer service experience, and hate shot gunning parts. But I may have to.
I do have a file picture taken about a month ago you can see the plugs on top of the coil.Grey plug is closer to the back of the car. Black one is joined next to it. You can see a white heat resistant cover over the loom wire headed back to the coil.
Someone will ask, so yes, I took out the factory air intake and evap system, and the cat. No emissions here or in northen AZ. Moving the battery up front. All for making room for a even bigger engine later. Runs real good now though. No SES light, and does not quite sound like a Fiero.
Bailing for the weekend.Leaving her by the Bayou.
Back in a few days.
Happy Easter !!
 [This message has been edited by gatorfrey (edited 04-16-2022).]
|
|
|
|
Patrick
|
APR 16, 02:11 AM
|
|
| quote | Originally posted by gatorfrey:
Pulling the cap, yet again, the plug appears to go to a module of some kind in the base of the distributor.
|
|
Yes, the ICM (Ignition Control Module) is inside the distributor. They do eventually burn out. However, I believe you mentioned that your tach moves a bit while the engine is being cranked. With a bad ICM, the tach wouldn't normally be twitching.
If you haven't already, remove that short harness that goes from the coil to the distributor and check that each wire has continuity.
|
|
|
|
Jake_Dragon
|
APR 16, 03:36 AM
|
|
|
|
|
montegut
|
APR 16, 07:17 AM
|
|
|
Where in Louisiana are you? I am outside of Houma. Send me a PM.
|
|
|
|
Dennis LaGrua
|
APR 16, 09:00 AM
|
|
|
Pull off the distributor cap and make sure that its dry inside. The most logical explanation may be lack of spark. This can be best checked with a timing light or a spark checker on a plug wire. ------------------
" THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Spintech/Hedman Exhaust, P-log Manifold, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, Champion Radiator, S10 Brake Booster, HP Tuners VCM Suite.
"THE COLUSSUS"
87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H
" ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
|
|
|
|
gatorfrey
|
APR 16, 11:23 AM
|
|
I am in West Monroe. Home of Duck Dynasty.
Pulled the cap, and harness connections before I ordered the coil last week.
The day after the bath, everything was dry.
What does that short wire do between the coil and the distributor that goes into the electronic module ?
Am I guessing right ? , some kind of pass through thing ?
I plan on checking continuity on the wire itself when I get back. But after a week of my daily being down, I am going to start shot gunning parts soon , starting with the distributor. I did not think it would be this hard to figure out.
I have a full electrical tune in a box in storage. I will grab it while in town, and bring it back.
Thanks for the suggestions and ideas here though. I appreciate it.[This message has been edited by gatorfrey (edited 04-16-2022).]
|
|
|
|