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| 87 GT died while cruising then finally came back to life (Page 2/3) |
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Patrick
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JUL 12, 04:45 PM
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There appears to be a lot of focus on the voltage fluctuation causing the stall. I suspect it's possibly the other way around... the engine stall is causing the voltage fluctuations.
When an engine stalls, the needle on the voltage gauge is going to move... and in the excitement of it all, it's probably pretty easy to not be be observing exactly (and/or correctly) what's going on with the voltage gauge needle in relation to the stalling engine.
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Rexgirl
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JUL 12, 05:09 PM
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Everything turned off?! Maybe the ignition switch has moved out of it's proper position?
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Fie Ro
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JUL 12, 05:31 PM
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Radio and gauges shutting off indicates a powersupply issue, either alternator/batt or a bad (ground) connection. Is there a difference in behaviour when the car is warmed up or cold?
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Patrick
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JUL 12, 05:55 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by MattK:
After about 10-15 attempts the engine turned over and remained running.
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What does that actually mean?
An engine "turning over"... is simply an engine being turned over by the starter. It doesn't mean the engine is starting/running.
So when you stated "After about 10-15 attempts the engine turned over", are you saying that you turned the key to the Start position 10-15 times and nothing initially happened... or that the engine turned over but wouldn't start?
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theogre
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JUL 12, 06:59 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
There appears to be a lot of focus on the voltage fluctuation causing the stall. I suspect it's possibly the other way around... the engine stall is causing the voltage fluctuations.
When an engine stalls, the needle on the voltage gauge is going to move... and in the excitement of it all, it's probably pretty easy to not be be observing exactly (and/or correctly) what's going on with the voltage gauge needle in relation to the stalling engine. |
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Engine Stalling will not make Volts Meter to drop to 9 to 10 volts as MattK claimed.
Stall shuts off the Alternator and dash gauge should read 12 to 13v for a charge battery allowing some dash gauge problems.
This is why you check the alt and rest of wiring First.
Then check ICM or whatever that can "go nuke" and not start when hot.
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Patrick
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JUL 12, 07:21 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by theogre:
Engine Stalling will not make Volts Meter to drop to 9 to 10 volts as MattK claimed.
Stall shuts off the Alternator and dash gauge should read 12 to 13v for a charge battery allowing some dash gauge problems.
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I don't disagree.
| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
When an engine stalls, the needle on the voltage gauge is going to move... and in the excitement of it all, it's probably pretty easy to not be be observing exactly (and/or correctly) what's going on with the voltage gauge needle in relation to the stalling engine.
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I had a total charging failure while I was driving my Formula home in May of last last year. I initially noticed the glowing red charging light, and then I noticed the reduced voltage (from 14 to 12)... and then I noticed the voltage was getting lower as I continued to drive.  At first I thought the belt must've broken, but it was fine. I made it home, immediately ordered a replacement CS alternator... and then discovered the next time I started the engine (after charging the battery)... that the old alternator was charging fine... and continues to do so 14 months later.  I can't explain what happened there. However, I have a nice newly re-manufactured 105 amp ACDelco alternator sitting here in its box should the need arise.[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 07-12-2022).]
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theogre
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JUL 13, 12:31 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
I had a total charging failure while I was driving my Formula home in May of last last year. I initially noticed the glowing red charging light, and then I noticed the reduced voltage (from 14 to 12)... and then I noticed the voltage was getting lower as I continued to drive. At first I thought the belt must've broken, but it was fine. I made it home, immediately ordered a replacement CS alternator... and then discovered the next time I started the engine (after charging the battery)... that the old alternator was charging fine... and continues to do so 14 months later. I can't explain what happened there. However, I have a nice newly re-manufactured 105 amp ACDelco alternator sitting here in its box should the need arise. |
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That isn't = to a stalled engine.
When alt is off/dead for any reason and you keep driving then Battery will get lower and lower then die too.
When the battery dies depend how much power car uses, condition of battery, and in US a spec call Reserve Time. (Cave, Battery)
If drive at night then have HL and other lights draining the battery vs day time when engine is main load. AC On then add that load to either sucking down the battery.
Cheap battery often have a lot less RT vs good Wet or AGM batteries. But caution, While longer RT is good on paper you don't what to push the spec because every time a starting battery is < 11.7v can shorten the lifetime at minimum. But having a good battery w/ long RT Is good when your on limited access road and maybe drive to next exit or home anywhere near there to avoid a tow bill.
But That's ignoring 12SI Alt he should have like to barf up a Diode Trio and when true that can kill the battery by itself. (Only 87-88 L4 and 88 V6 Fiero have factory installed CS130.) If any SI is "dead," get to a safe spot to park fast and disconnect the battery in case the alt is draining because that try to drain the battery to 0volt and destroy a good battery. Iffy Gen 1 HL motors and some others can do same w/ I-key Off.
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Patrick
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JUL 13, 12:58 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
...the old alternator was charging fine... and continues to do so 14 months later. I can't explain what happened there.
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Okay, this is really weird. I posted a few hours ago that my alternator has been working fine the last 14 months after a single episode of the alternator not charging. Two hours after I posted that, I got in my Formula, turned the key, the engine snapped to life... but the charging light was glowing red and the alternator wasn't charging.  Wow, talk about jinxing oneself!
Obviously, I did not continue on my way in the Formula. That is really really weird. 
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Raydar
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JUL 13, 07:58 AM
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Check the connections and wires themselves, at the terminal strip next to the battery, under the C500 connector. That's the power distribution point for the entire car.
There is one wire that feeds, essentially, the entire front half of the car (including the fuse box). If that wire breaks - or the fusible link at the terminal burns out - it will make everything blank out. Lights, radio, engine, everything.
My car had a bad splice, and did exactly what you described - including everything going out, while going down the road. Since the connection was intermittent, it recovered, and then died again.
| quote | Originally posted by Patrick:
Okay, this is really weird. I posted a few hours ago that my alternator has been working fine the last 14 months after a single episode of the alternator not charging. Two hours after I posted that, I got in my Formula, turned the key, the engine snapped to life... but the charging light was glowing red and the alternator wasn't charging.
...That is really really weird. |
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 [This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 07-13-2022).]
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Patrick
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JUL 13, 04:00 PM
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| quote | Originally posted by Raydar:
Aliens.
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I agree. That's the only explanation that makes sense. 
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