First time owner (Page 2/2)
Kitskaboodle SEP 01, 08:51 PM
Here’s a piece of advice almost nobody follows but everyone should!
Always ask the selling party to ensure the car has been sitting for at least a half day before you arrive. When you start it (and the engine is cold) it is more likely to make noises that are not good. (I.e. bottom end / crankshaft bearings, etc.)
Kit

[This message has been edited by Kitskaboodle (edited 09-01-2022).]

armos SEP 02, 08:19 PM
Rust is hugely important to look for. I had an IL Fiero that I gave up on because of rear upper frame rail rot. You want a solid frame. Everything else can be fixed. Of course engines and transmissions are much more costly to deal with and you'll want to know if there's problems there.

Personally I wouldn't worry much about codes, those are generally fixable sensor issues or minor component malfunctions. If you are buying a car this old you'll have to expect and be willing to troubleshoot those types of problems sometimes. A structurally sound Fiero with codes may just be a blessing because it lowers the price.
BUT - I'm saying all this from a DIY point of view. If it is your intention to pay a mechanic to fix the car for you, then in that case buy a really good one, it's cheaper than a mechanic will be.

I've been daily driving my Fiero since 2010. Once you get the issues sorted out a simple old car can be very reliable and will be cheap to own, but that assumes you understand the car enough to know if/when it needs attention and have the interest to learn as much as you can about how things work on the car. A professional mechanic won't be there day to day, so they can't help you as much as you can help yourself.


Features are personal taste, but a sunroof isn't necessarily a good thing. Most of them started leaking in the 1990s. There's a dramatic appeal to a sunroof but it adds nothing to the interior when you're actually sitting inside, IMO.
Actually in light of rust being the key issue, I'd just say don't worry too much about the options package if you find a car that's in great condition.
I'm not sure there's any such thing as a Fiero with good original paint. Good news though is that the painted body is fiberglass and plastic, so problems with the paint are not relevant to rust.
The steel structure underneath is what you're really worried about, especially the rear frame rails which are the biggest hotspot. Pull back the trunk carpet as was mentioned earlier, and feel up underneath the rear wheel wells with your hand, you can reach around part of the frame there if you reach between the plastic wheel liner and the strut.
Rotten frame rails are the #1 disqualifier, unless you're a welder.

If you see a car you like, take a picture of the RPO tag under the front hood, on the driver's side wheel hump. It lists all the car's option codes and the VIN, so you can look up more about those details later.


I think the most important indicators on the automatic transmission are if fluid is found at the proper level (indicator of maintenance) and most importantly if it slips any during hard acceleration. Obviously if it slips that's a big demerit to the car's value, walk away if you don't want to do an overhaul. The THM125C is very reliable so don't be afraid of it, but any one of them can be ruined.
If it does slip, possible causes are low fluid level or the TV cable in the back, which might be misrouted or in bad condition. If the slippage is minor and hard to induce, then this might be all that has to be fixed to resolve it. But if the driver has been letting it slip for long then the clutch plates in the transmission might be permanently damaged even after fixing the issue that caused it.

Many would prefer a manual especially for a 4cyl car - it will not only accelerate better, it will also get better mileage. Biggest problem with the auto is it has no overdrive gear, so cruising mileage isn't very good.


quote
fierofool
If it's an automatic, look on the front side of the transmission for a harness plugged into the transmission. It sits horizontally pointing at the driver's butt. If it's unplugged, there is probably an issue with the transmission.


On my old 4cyl Fiero I left that connector (TCC lockup) unplugged for years just because I didn't like how it drove with that feature active. Nowadays I'd probably reprogram it but I bet lots of people just unplug it without there being anything wrong with the trans.
When I got my V6 Fiero, it was found unplugged as well, and when I tried plugging it in the car would buck when it engaged the lockup. However, after changing the transmission fluid it cleared up and it's perfectly smooth nowadays.
These trannies were rated for a 30K mile fluid interval, but many people never change it at all.

[This message has been edited by armos (edited 09-02-2022).]