clutch pushrod too short?? (Page 2/4)
jelly2m8 JUN 18, 02:37 AM
Why is anyone still debating anything? 99.9% of the time any clutch slave travel is ALWAYS a bent clutch pedal........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

Shimmed Slaves, Adjustable banjos are always and only a band aid for a bent clutch pedal

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 06-18-2023).]

Patrick JUN 18, 03:04 AM

quote
Originally posted by jelly2m8:

Why is anyone still debating anything? 99.9% of the time any clutch slave travel is ALWAYS a bent clutch pedal...



Read the thread! The slave was apparently reaching the end of its travel when the pedal was depressed. More travel at the pedal/master wouldn't solve a thing in this situation.
jelly2m8 JUN 18, 03:25 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

Read the thread! The slave was apparently reaching the end of its travel when the pedal was depressed. More travel at the pedal/master wouldn't solve a thing in this situation.



been there done that a hundred times over, over the past 30 years I made a healthy living sending Fiero customers away totally satisfied. If I had a Nickle for every bent clutch pedal that big old crescent wrench fixed I'd have twice the money

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 06-18-2023).]

Patrick JUN 18, 03:37 AM

quote
Originally posted by jelly2m8:

been there done that a hundred times over, over the past 30 years I made a healthy living sending Fiero customers away totally satisfied. If I had a Nickle for every bent clutch pedal that big old crescent wrench fixed I'd have twice the money



I know all about bent clutch pedals.

Judging from what the OP has stated, this isn't the typical "bent clutch pedal" scenario. However, there's no point you and I arguing about it, as neither one of us is in a position to know exactly what's going on. We'll just have to wait and see what the outcome is.
jelly2m8 JUN 18, 03:46 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

I know all about bent clutch pedals.

Judging from what the OP has stated, this isn't the typical "bent clutch pedal" scenario. However, there's no point you and I arguing about it, as neither one of us is in a position to know exactly what's going on. We'll just have to wait and see what the outcome is.



You do Patrick yes, and you also know you never start throwing parts until you know that Clutch pedal is back within spec, which is why anytime a clutch release issue is posted there needs to be a sticky on clutch pedals.

[This message has been edited by jelly2m8 (edited 06-18-2023).]

Patrick JUN 18, 04:27 AM

quote
Originally posted by jelly2m8:

which is why anytime a clutch release issue is posted there needs to be a sticky on clutch pedals.



I went through some old threads by the OP and found the following...


quote
Originally posted by katie80 Here:

whatever it was that stuck bent the pedal. it's not terribly bent and it's too cold for me to want to take the pedal out. It's not terrible and it's probably time to start getting upgrade parts instead of replacement parts to make up for 80s GM cost-cutting. gonna buy an adjustable banjo.



So yes, it sounds like a bent pedal might be a factor here... but how much of a factor is still to be determined. It is my experience that a bent pedal results in not enough travel at the master and slave. I'm sure we're both in agreement on that. However, the OP has stated that the slave piston is reaching the far end of the bore (towards the transmission) when the pedal is pushed. The slave piston cannot physically go any farther. I don't understand how adding more throw at the pedal/master end (if indeed it's possible) will be able to move the clutch release arm any further. (This is why I suspected, and it's been confirmed, that the slave push rod is shorter than the specified factory length.)

After reading those old threads again, I do have several questions for the OP...

- Did you install the adjustable banjo?
- Where is your clutch pedal sitting in relation to the brake pedal? And don't just say "above" ... how far above?
- If you were to disconnect the banjo from the pedal, can the pedal still be moved a tiny bit towards you? (There needs to be a bit of free play.)
- And finally... when your pedal is pushed and the slave reaches the end of its bore, is your clutch pedal still above the floorboard. In other words, is the "bottomed out" slave preventing your pedal from reaching the floor?

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 06-18-2023).]

PhatMax JUN 18, 08:20 AM
Watching this thread as I am having a similar issue. Here’s what I have and a thought on what’s going on.
I have the steel clutch pedal, new clutch, SS lines, Rodney’s master and slave. Clutch fork was inspected when motor and trans were out of car. So, bled the master, banjo up, clear fluid at slave. Slave only moves about 3/4”. Grabbed slave rod, pulled back while buddy opened bleeder, barely any fluid came out. Did this 4 times. After a while of pondering…..I had my buddy slowly push the pedal down while I watched the slave rod….pedal moved a bit before rod did….so I thought “let’s move the banjo so the rod moves as soon as the pedal is pressed. At that point I could get it into gear while running but it didn’t feel,right. Felt like It was bottoming out the MC…..not cool. So I’m stuck on what to do next.
This maybe the answer…haven’t tried it yet. Since the system is a very basic hydraulic set up when you push the rod back into the slave it should just push the fluid back to the MC….correct ? So maybe there needs to be a bit of pressure on the pedal to put the master into the “fluid pushing operation” then try pushing the rod into the slave and crack open the bleeder to get air out….does this make sense?
theogre JUN 18, 09:36 AM
If the clutch will not "press down..."
The Arm on the pedal is likely bent.

Arm sides should be parallel and straight but often have hydro or other problems and clutch side bends and twisted to the pedal side.

Pull out the pedal and lay flat on floor etc so can see this easier.

Putting "Adjusdable" or other long push rod w/ bent pedal just make arm to bend more and repeat the problem.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave

katie80 JUN 18, 11:44 AM

quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

See what it's like with the factory specified length slave push rod.

In one of your previous threads, you said you replaced the slave. Was this 136 mm push rod the one that came with it?



I believe so. I think the the slave I got was already leaking so I just stopped working on it for a while and lost the longer one.
katie80 JUN 18, 11:47 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

If the clutch will not "press down..."
The Arm on the pedal is likely bent.

Arm sides should be parallel and straight but often have hydro or other problems and clutch side bends and twisted to the pedal side.

Pull out the pedal and lay flat on floor etc so can see this easier.

Putting "Adjusdable" or other long push rod w/ bent pedal just make arm to bend more and repeat the problem.




this forum is really frustrating to me. READ THE THREAD. it doesn't go all the way to the floor because the SLAVE is bottomed out. the piston in the slave is touching the circlip when the pedal is only like halfway down. EVERYTHING BEFORE THE PUSHROD IS WORKING PERFECTLY, NO LEAKS, AIR IS BLED, PEDAL IS STRAIGHT, I JUST REPLACED IT.