Need Help Deciding If This Fiero Is Right To Buy (Page 2/2)
Dukesterpro NOV 30, 03:11 PM
Im with 82 T/A.

Whats the asking price? Thats whats going to make or break this. . .
zach99zulu DEC 01, 12:52 AM
Thanks for all info, guys! Battery cutoff switch definitely sounds simple enough. Any disadvantages to it? Vehicle clock isn't accurate and just stuff like that? lol.

Listed for $10,000. With the drain, $9,000. I forgot how many miles. I'll update when I get that info. But I think it was a little over 100,000.
Patrick DEC 01, 01:09 AM

quote
Originally posted by Dukesterpro:

Im with 82 T/A. Whats the asking price? Thats whats going to make or break this. . .



He was only the third person who asked.

82-T/A [At Work] DEC 01, 06:57 AM

quote
Originally posted by zach99zulu:

Thanks for all info, guys! Battery cutoff switch definitely sounds simple enough. Any disadvantages to it? Vehicle clock isn't accurate and just stuff like that? lol.

Listed for $10,000. With the drain, $9,000. I forgot how many miles. I'll update when I get that info. But I think it was a little over 100,000.




The car definitely looks decent enough. I think it's in good shape. It's hard to say because the cost of things has gone up exceptionally over the past couple of years, which includes used cars. So I'll say that based on what I've seen for used Fieros, this is about what you can expect for a really good condition / non super rare / non super low miles Fiero.

I think $9k is OK... you're paying what it's worth. If that helps?
Vintage-Nut DEC 01, 08:23 AM
Need Help Deciding If This Fiero Is Right To Buy

To me, a six-hour drive to see a car is a 'road trip'. If you're really interested to purchase THIS car, meaning the price/condition/issues, my suggestion is to spend the time to inspect and drive it.

"On Paper" it sounds good, but in my experience, in-person often is different.......

IMHO: I enjoy 'stock' vehicles more than the aftermarket camshaft, rockers, ecu tuner, headers and exhaust.

--------------------------------------

A Recent Thread to Read:

Parasitic battery drain- 88 Formula by V8 Formula
https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/144401.html

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Original Owner of a Silver '88 GT
Under 'Production Refurbishment' @ 136k Miles

Mickey_Moose DEC 01, 01:59 PM

quote
Originally posted by Spoon:


You have the potential to get that discount with very little effort! It could be many things but this is the easiest to check. Have seller connect battery an hour before your arrival. When you get there, touch each headlight motor with caution. The warm one is the thousand dollar discount. If both are warm, push for another $1000. Easy replacement and new ones are still available. Spring for a pair and the odds of them raising at the same rate are improved.

Spoon





Headlights motors shouldn't be the cause since it is 2nd gen (88).

As for the OP, what Ogre said. I would be questioning the aftermarket rear suspension as well. Just be aware 88 suspension and brakes are specific to the 88MY and as such are a bit harder to come by, now throw in custom parts...
BingB DEC 01, 03:37 PM
General rules of thumb (rule of thumbs?) when buying a used car.

1. A car that well maintained is generally going to have had regular maintenance. So less chance of mechanical failure/decline due to poor care.

2. A car with aftermarket performance parts has probably been driven hard. 20K of hard driving puts more "wear and tear" on a car than 50K of normal driving. So higher chance of mechanical failure/decline due to abusive driving.


That being said $9K sounds like a good deal if you have basic mechanic skills. I really like the wheels.

BTW is it a white car sitting in shade or is it silver. I really like white on sports cars (unless they are old enough to have chrome), but I don't see it that often.
Raydar DEC 01, 05:53 PM
Parasitic draw could be a stuck oil pressure sender, keeping the fuel pump energized. I've had brand new ones to stick. Easily unplugged to test.

Edit - Before you do much of anything else, pull the trunk carpet back from the "short sides" of the compartment, to see if there's any rust. This is usually where Fieros first start to rust, along with the plugs in the floorboards.

This is what the trunk sides should look like. (Some Fieros had white/yellow putty, sealing the seams, instead of black.)

[This message has been edited by Raydar (edited 12-01-2023).]