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| Need to replace oil pan in 88 GT - Need advice (Page 2/2) |
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phils88GT
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FEB 25, 10:00 PM
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I have seen that mentioned before in the forums about installing a High volume oil pump. I am considering it. If you can trust the gauge, she has good oil pressure, never going under 40 at temp and at idle.
It is crazy how expensive those HV Melliing oil pumps cost.. is Melling the only one out there?
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Vintage-Nut
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FEB 26, 11:07 PM
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Notorio
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FEB 26, 11:49 PM
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You didn't mention the miles on your engine. Never falling below 40 psig is remarkable, you might consider borrowing a manual pressure gauge to confirm. Also, once you get the pan off you'll get the inside story on frequency of oil changes.
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phils88GT
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FEB 27, 06:21 AM
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The mileage is around 135k I believe. I would like to keep it that way! π
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82-T/A [At Work]
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FEB 27, 09:49 AM
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| quote | Originally posted by phils88GT:
The mileage is around 135k I believe. I would like to keep it that way! π |
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I concur on replacing the oil pump.
Buuut... here's the thing. This is starting to get expensive. So the question is, if you're going to spend all this money, is it worth it for you to go through all this effort just to replace a dented oil pan? I only mention this because many years ago... I had a Porsche 944 that I bought for $1,600. I decided to change the windshield wipers, which then led to changing the batter, which then led to changing some other stuff. $7,000 bucks later I'd basically completely restored the car, and then sold it for $2,018 when my daughter was born.
With 135k miles on it, unless you and the original owners used Synthetic from day-1 (which is unrealistic since it wasn't widely available in the 80s or 90s), then the motor probably has a lot of wear, and you're throwing money at something which will eventually need to be replaced. Just thinking... before this snowballs or waterfalls, or avalanches, or whatever they call it. To what point do you realize the sunk-cost fallacy?
You may go through all this effort, even changing out the rod bearings, oil pump, windage tray, motor mount, and oil pan... and then a month later your main bearings go out (because you won't be able to change those without pulling the motor).
My advice in retrospect or forwardspect... I dunno... is think about where you want to go with this. You could do a 3.4 swap... and when the engine goes, then you just pluck that one out and drop this one in. Or... you could start buying the parts for what you want to do... e.g., a 3.1 / 3.2 engine rebuild conversion... with new pistons, rings, bearings, and everything ready to go... so when you do get that fateful rod knock... you pull the motor and then do it all right at once, and drop it back in...
Just a thought...
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V8Steve
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FEB 27, 10:24 AM
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I have complete 88 Formula drive train for sale. It has 88K miles on it. It's registered and driven now. It's a simple drop in. Can send you video of cold start, etc. There are no leaks found on the shop floor. Am doing a V8 swap and will pull the engine around April 1. ------------------
88GT 355 CI, AED HO 750 Double Pumper, AFR milled 180, Dyno'd at 427 HP, 360 WHP, F40 6-Spd
anderson@gdsconsulting.com
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phils88GT
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FEB 27, 01:00 PM
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Itβs funny that you mention the engine swap. I have been considering either a 3.4 swap or potentially the 3.8 supercharged swap. Currently the engine runs pretty good, with no strange noises or knocks or anything else. It does burn a little oil on a hot restart but I figured that was probably just the valve guide seals are probably worn out or wearing out.
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