No start on '85 GT (Page 2/3)
jumpmonkey MAY 02, 08:51 PM
Alright. I checked both V6 fuses and they were fine.

I did test pressure on the fuel rail(How cartercarbaficionado suggested). I primed the pump about 3 times and poked the schrader valve with a screwdriver. A 4-6 inch geyser shot up as he said it would.

As for checking the connector for voltage like olejoedad said, I became a bit confused.


Is this the correct connector? I tried following the harness that I could see the fuel injectors were connnected to under the upper intake. I tested the two wires I have arrows pointing to. The left wire showed no voltage when cranking. The right wire showed only 8V when cranking. Kinda stumped on this one
jumpmonkey MAY 03, 08:06 PM
I was searching up threads about fuel injection to see if there have been issues similar to mine. While I was searching, I found this thread by Intel where he was diagnosing a no-start after his Fiero had been sitting a minute. His issue ended up being that the timing somehow went off while sitting. Don't think that's my problem.

Some of the tests he did intrigued me though. I removed a spark plug to see if there was fuel on it after cranking for about 4-5 seconds. Pulled it out and it was bone dry. Not even a scent of fuel. After this, I poked the schrader valve and gas shot out.

So I have fuel pressure at the rail but I don't have fuel coming out of the injectors? That leads me to believe it's that the injectors are not getting power or they are plugged up

Side note: Anyone know if I tested the correct connector I posted above? I haven't been able to find any info on the injector harness. If I can't figure it out, I'll just remove the upper intake which I assume I'll have to do either way.

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Jumpmonkey

82-T/A [At Work] MAY 04, 09:26 AM

quote
Originally posted by cartercarbaficionado:
ah the lovely crappy tbi injection. check fuel pressure and that the injectors spray at cranking speed, quick and dumb way to check pressure is to let it pressurize and then find the Schrader Valve and poke it with a screwdriver after you disconnect the coil on all sides, the fuel geyser should be around 4 to 6 inches tall. aka if it touches the decklid its perfect



His car is actually an MPFI-based system... 6 separate injectors with the injector directly in the intake manifold just before the intake port on the cyl head. Which... totally random here, but I've often wondered if there's any significant benefit to converting to an SFI system. Difference being, ours with MPFI, the valves have fuel that pools on top of the intake valve rather than being sprayed directly when the valve is opening. With SFI... it sprays each valve independently as the valve is getting ready to open. I don't know if this saves fuel, makes more efficient use of it, etc... but it's certainly a more modern take.



quote
Originally posted by jumpmonkey:

So I have fuel pressure at the rail but I don't have fuel coming out of the injectors? That leads me to believe it's that the injectors are not getting power or they are plugged up

Side note: Anyone know if I tested the correct connector I posted above? I haven't been able to find any info on the injector harness. If I can't figure it out, I'll just remove the upper intake which I assume I'll have to do either way.





Just a couple of things...

I *THINK* you said you tested spark, correct? You said... "If" you could start it with starting fluid, then it should be fine. But I didn't get a concrete answer (or I might have missed it, and I apologize). If you're able to start it with starting fluid, then the problem is ABSOLUTELY fuel delivery.


Here, let's do it the way I know best... like a computer program.


IF Car Starts = TRUE when you spray starting fluid, THEN ECM and SPARK are OK. (EDIT: It would also mean timing isn't too far off)

IF Fuel Pressure = ~38-42 PSI at the schrader valve, THEN fuel pump is OK


If you can confirm both of those for me as TRUE (as written), then I think we need to take a closer look at a few things.

- Have you confirmed you don't have any engine codes?
- I'm thinking maybe plugged injectors?


... that is the right connector, and if you've tested both those wires and you see pulses, it means the injectors should be bank-firing (I'd need to double check, but I'm assuming those are the right to wires).

Does it feel like it's trying to start?

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 05-04-2024).]

olejoedad MAY 04, 01:38 PM
The two wires that carry power to the injectors in that plug are D and A.
One is pink, the other is pink/white.
The wires you have highlighted are D and E.

E is for the cold
start injector, as is the tan wire F.

[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 05-04-2024).]

jumpmonkey MAY 04, 05:21 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

The two wires that carry power to the injectors in that plug are D and A.
One is pink, the other is pink/white.
The wires you have highlighted are D and E.

E is for the cold
start injector, as is the tan wire F.




I assume the wires are in aplhabetical order, left to right from the picture I sent?
The wires that carry power to the injectors are A and D. A pink wire and a pink/white wire. You said that the wires I have highlighted are D and E but E is clearly the pink/white you're referring to, right?
I think I'm more confused, now haha
olejoedad MAY 04, 05:49 PM
If you look closely at the plug, the letters are on the plug.
You may have to clean it up some, but they are there.

The wire on the right side of your picture that you have marked is purple and white, it is in terminal E.
Terminal A is on the far left.

The wire colors are affected by engine heat and may be discolored.

[This message has been edited by olejoedad (edited 05-04-2024).]

jumpmonkey MAY 05, 09:17 PM

quote
Originally posted by olejoedad:

If you look closely at the plug, the letters are on the plug.
You may have to clean it up some, but they are there.

The wire on the right side of your picture that you have marked is purple and white, it is in terminal E.
Terminal A is on the far left.

The wire colors are affected by engine heat and may be discolored.




Alrighty. Got it this time! Both A and D are showing 10-11V when key ON. At this point, with verified power and fuel pressure at the rail, I'd assume that my injectors are all gummed up. If there's something else I should check before I remove the rail/injectors to be cleaned and flow tested, I'm all ears.
olejoedad MAY 05, 10:20 PM
That would be the next step.....
Be sure to check resistance on the injectors, they should all be very very close to the same.

Or, just buy a set that are already cleaned and flow tested.
jumpmonkey MAY 06, 05:25 PM
I'll do a resistance check on the injectors tonight. I also was able to get my hands on a noid light, so I'll test with that.

If those tests perform good and I end up needing to clean or get new injectors, which would be better? I've been struggling to find any for sale online at a fair price compared to getting them cleaned and flow tested.
What's a company that you recommend for cleaning and flow testing?

Also, if I'm going to purchase injectors do I just need to look for any that have FJ9 at the start? Looking on RockAuto from a link recommended by Patrick in another thread, I see FJ936, FJ990, FJ996, etc.
I'm not sure what the differences would be or if I should just go for whichever one is in my price range.

[This message has been edited by jumpmonkey (edited 05-06-2024).]

Patrick MAY 06, 06:00 PM

quote
Originally posted by jumpmonkey:

I've been struggling to find any for sale online at a fair price compared to getting them cleaned and flow tested.



I looked up what it cost me nine years ago to replace my injectors. It was $77.20... no, not for one, for all six... and that price included shipping. They appear to be a tad more expensive now!