1985 Fiero Engine Wiring Questions (Page 2/2)
82-T/A [At Work] JUL 04, 11:10 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Few things have heavier wire then others...
Starter & Starter to AT Neutral Switch.
Alt.
1 Ground from engine to left side frame.

IF any are "Cooked" is very likely has problems besides being too close to the exhaust.

Example: Grounds to frame cooked can be bad battery cable & using them as side/sneak path when starting dumping 150+ Amps running the starter motor.

Just the Starter Solenoid pulls 30+ Amps can cook damage/deffective wiring.




Thanks Ogre, in this case, I've removed the entire harness from the engine, and I'm going through and repairing some of the ends. I replaced the oxygen sensor plug (was damaged and the clip broken), removed the 1984 left-over fan switch we talked about, and I replaced the connector for one of the two-pronged connectors (forget what it was for). I'm re-wrapping everything, and I bought all new heat wrap, and I'm going to make sure it's all looking perfect. I also bought several of those heat insulation cabling sleeves (whatever they're called) from Rodney Dickman. The wiring that's damaged is the large purple wire (I think it goes to the starter?). It's two purple wires, one small one, and one really heavy gauge one. The heavy gauge one seems to be cooked (blackened). The wiring itself is ok, but the rubber insulator is cracked.

Do you think I need to replace the entire length of this wire? Or can I simply wrap it up and call it a day? I plan to double-insulate the wiring and make sure it's properly tucked out of the way. The car had over 200k miles on it originally, and while the guy did an excellent job of maintaining it, over the years all the bolts had been changed and things moved around a little bit. I've put back all the correct bolts (from donor cars) into the right place (or I should say, my daughter did), and I'm cleaning up everything and putting it back where it belongs.


EDIT: Also... anyone know where I can get new ones of these? I didn't see them on the wiring website, unless I'm totally blind (I'll look again)


Thanks!!!

[This message has been edited by 82-T/A [At Work] (edited 07-04-2024).]

CSM842M4 JUL 04, 01:27 PM
Not to hijack 82-TA's thread, but do have questions related to the 2-speed radiator fan, switch and connector. On my '84 2.5 with AC, is the 2-speed required, recommended or desirable? If so, are the switch and connector still available? Right now I'm running with a 1-speed switch and connector, wired to the high speed wire. Looks kinda hokey with the other wire just dangling out there. But, once again, previous owner...
82-T/A [At Work] JUL 04, 02:45 PM

quote
Originally posted by CSM842M4:

Not to hijack 82-TA's thread, but do have questions related to the 2-speed radiator fan, switch and connector. On my '84 2.5 with AC, is the 2-speed required, recommended or desirable? If so, are the switch and connector still available? Right now I'm running with a 1-speed switch and connector, wired to the high speed wire. Looks kinda hokey with the other wire just dangling out there. But, once again, previous owner...




You can have mine for free if you want it (the red connector + pigtail). I cut it back about 6 inches just in case someone needed it. I can mail it to you no problem.
CSM842M4 JUL 04, 04:09 PM
Might take you up on that, 82-T/A. Any way you can post a pic of it? I don't think I've ever seen the 2-speed setup.
82-T/A [At Work] JUL 04, 04:35 PM

quote
Originally posted by CSM842M4:

Might take you up on that, 82-T/A. Any way you can post a pic of it? I don't think I've ever seen the 2-speed setup.



Yeah, I'll post it later tonight. Just to be clear, I ONLY have the plug / pigtail... (engine compartment side).

theogre JUL 04, 11:20 PM
Replace the wire.
Only 1 wire "burned" is sometime else draw way too many amps & heat that wire. Doesn't mater how "good" you think a wire is.

Exhaust won't burn 1 wire over a long span like you say has happen.

---
2 speed fan

Likely had broken the OE fan, resistor on it, relay or engine switch all w/ problems to source.

If works now can leave it as is.

Even w/ lower temp turn On... Dukes should not turn the fan on unless @ idle for a while or heavy traffic can't get air w/o running the fan.
AC on forces the rad fan On regardless of engine switch(es).
82-T/A [At Work] JUL 05, 09:01 AM

quote
Originally posted by 82-T/A [At Work]:

Yeah, I'll post it later tonight. Just to be clear, I ONLY have the plug / pigtail... (engine compartment side).



Here is the pigtail... if you think you need / want it, just PM me your address and I'll send it out.
Thanks!
82-T/A [At Work] JUL 05, 09:02 AM

quote
Originally posted by theogre:

Replace the wire.
Only 1 wire "burned" is sometime else draw way too many amps & heat that wire. Doesn't mater how "good" you think a wire is.

Exhaust won't burn 1 wire over a long span like you say has happen.




It was right where the purple wire passes by the exhaust manifold, and it was two wires (though connected to the same point)... but advice taken.

I have a spare wiring harness from a 1988, so I'll check to see if it also has the purple wire and just replace that whole part.


Thanks!
82-T/A [At Work] JUL 05, 10:09 PM
Ok, just completely finished the engine wiring harness. I had planned to completely re-wire the engine and move a bunch of stuff around... but the ONLY thing I ended up changing, was the routing of the A/C compressor wiring. I couldn't stand having it run along the front of the engine, so I changed the direction of the wiring and I'm now running it under the heat shielding of the exhaust manifold. It's only two wires, I wrapped it in electrical and then heat shield tape, and then ran it through one of those heat shield sleeves (see below):




All in all, I wrapped the entire thing with electrical tape, then put new plastic wire loom around it, then wrapped it again with the fabric wire protector, used a couple of zip ties... and it looks fantastic. I replaced all the electrical heat shielding tape, and replaced a couple of the connectors.