Tomorrow, I am going to check continuity on the 2 wires that go from the ICM to the crank sensor on the advice of La Fiera. They should be a twisted pair or have a third wire that is grounded on one end. Is your memcal from a v6?
It's a twisted pair. The connector on the ICM side is a 3 wire with 1 wire missing. Yes, my memcal is from a V6.
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 10-07-2024).]
lou_dias
OCT 10, 06:41 PM
Things are starting to add up.
I am using the expensive ICM. So I assume it was not the issue... However, I've had 3 or 4 bad ICM's now...
But why?
My stock battery gauge is reading 16+ volts. I'm starting to believe that perhaps I am over-volting the ICMs and one thing or another is internally failing after a week or so of use.
Hopefully I can get a warranty replacement tomorrow that works [temporarily] and can race on Saturday. I'll replace the alternator later...
Patrick
OCT 10, 06:57 PM
quote
Originally posted by lou_dias:
My stock battery gauge is reading 16+ volts. I'm starting to believe that perhaps I am over-volting...
I wouldn't trust the car's battery gauge/voltmeter. You must have a standalone multimeter?
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 10-10-2024).]
lou_dias
OCT 11, 01:37 PM
I find the voltage issue reading 20% higher may explain why my rpm gauge and oil pressure generally read 20% higher...same with my temp gauge... I'd imagine whatever circuitry that produces a 5v signal expecing 13.2v may convert a 16+v signal to 6+ volts...
jdv
NOV 18, 08:50 AM
Did you find a solution?
lou_dias
NOV 18, 07:35 PM
I'm having an engine ground that I had go to the subframe be moved to the battery instead. That seems to be when the problem started. Also getting a coolant leak fixed and trying to determine the part # for the front QA-1 coilovers...
