AR electronic cruise control wiring question (Page 3/5)
VanGTP5000 FEB 21, 05:28 PM
It turns out that the Brown/White wire was not the right wire after all. I cut and spliced in the Brown Wire to the far right of the Stock Fiero cruise control plug seen in the pic above and now I see power (key on, cruise on) until brake pedal is depressed.

All that is left now is to get a crimping tool that can handle the one lone Delphi 150 Female 18-16ga terminal I unsuccessfully crimped using a standard pair of pliers. It held and worked initially, but didn't stand up to the rigors of pulling the plug from the servo a few times for testing.



I haven't found one that is under $130 yet! If anyone knows of one please let me know.

Thanks,
-Van

[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-22-2018).]

phonedawgz FEB 22, 03:42 AM
Pull the pin out of the connector, slide the seal up on the wire and then slide the terminal on. Then solder the terminal on the wire and slide the seal back up in place. A pita but for just a single terminal not a problem.

The B crimpers can be had for about $30.00

https://www.amazon.com/GM-D...300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
VanGTP5000 FEB 22, 10:04 AM

quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

Pull the pin out of the connector, slide the seal up on the wire and then slide the terminal on. Then solder the terminal on the wire and slide the seal back up in place. A pita but for just a single terminal not a problem.

The B crimpers can be had for about $30.00

https://www.amazon.com/GM-D...300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch



I woke up to a phone call from EFI Connection in Pa this am. He confirmed that the prices I had seen on their website do cause sticker shock in most novice people like myself. He went further to explain how each terminal has factory specs that require proper clearance for each jig made to consider air clearance and depth and height requirements of the actual crimp of the terminal created by the tooling. He had said that the Radio Shack type was not suggested because of that fact. I interrupted him to explain that I was crimping one lone terminal and his response was similar to your own Tim. He said, "Just solder the connection making sure to avoid getting any solder in the path of the locking tab." I was told to do this same solder "deal" initially when the problem first presented itself a while back but typical of me...I just had to try and do it the way I thought it was supposed to be done correctly. Without the proper tool I failed.

Thanks for the follow up Tim. I will give the solder trick a try.

-Van

[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-22-2018).]

VanGTP5000 FEB 22, 05:20 PM
Ok...here is another update.

I rushed home to re-pin the errant wire tonight. Mission accomplished. Tested the pin at the plug with a test light. Tested all the pins at the plug for that matter and they all seemed to be functioning correctly as I cycled through the cruise stalk functions. So I plugged it in, Jumped in the car to test drive it. It didn't work. Now I suppose it is possible that I have a faulty cruise servo as fieroguru had mentioned. But I went back into a thread that I started http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/140891.html and found this post from Spoon:


quote
Originally posted by Spoon:

VanGTP5000,

Don't take this as gospel but here is a note from my schedule dated July 11, 2011 when I was installing digital cruise control. My car had existing CC and it is a 4 spd /2.8.
****
FIERO / REWIRE CRUISE CTRL BRAKE INPUT UNDER CONSOLE. SERVICE MANUAL SHOWS BRN/WHT WIRE FOR BOTH BRAKE INPUT AND VSS INPUT.
ACTUALLY A SOLID BROWN WIRE IS FOR THE BRAKE INPUT (KEY ON - RUN). THIS GETS CONNECTED TO THE TAN WIRE AT SAME CLIP.
THE SINGLE BRN/WHT WIRE IS FOR VSS INPUT.

Spoon





I had no power from the Brown/White stripe wire, but when I spliced in the solid Brown wire it performed properly when I cycled though each of the stalk functions. Yet the cruise control still doesn't work. I thought that switching over to the solid Brown wire would solve my problem but it didn't. Am I using the wrong wire even though it has power (key on, cruise on) until brake pedal is depressed?

Uggh! I am almost there...
-Van
phonedawgz FEB 22, 08:48 PM
If all the wires are functioning correctly, but the cruise control still doesn't work, then I am going to say the problem resides with the cruise servo. I can send you one that is known good if you want.
VanGTP5000 FEB 22, 10:28 PM
PM sent phonedawgz
VanGTP5000 FEB 25, 11:46 AM

quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

If all the wires are functioning correctly, but the cruise control still doesn't work, then I am going to say the problem resides with the cruise servo. I can send you one that is known good if you want.



Well that seems to be the case here. It is possible that the board has gone bad because power coming in on each of the pins test fine.



Please let me know what you have in terms of a replacement Tim.

Thanks,
-Van

[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 02-25-2018).]

VanGTP5000 MAR 02, 01:42 PM
I just installed yet another cruise control servo. This time it was the "AR" instead of the "FH". It didn't work either. I don't understand what is wrong. All wiring tests properly with a test light at the plug that goes into the servo. Is there a way to diagnose this problem other than continuing to waste money buying used cruise control servos? Buying a new one is not an option for me at the current prices.

If anyone can help or has a suggestion, it would be greatly appreciated. I am pretty frustrated at this point.

-Van

[This message has been edited by VanGTP5000 (edited 03-02-2018).]

fieroguru MAR 02, 06:08 PM
3rd module was the charm for me. Installed the 3rd and it just worked after the first two refused to work. I didn't change a thing with the car or wiring.

Have you measured the resistance values on the two wires that switch from +12V to ground. Darth specified that they need to have a pretty low resistance value (something like 20 ohms) to ground. He also commented about having several modules that would never work in the Fiero (when others would work in the same car), but worked just fine in a factory GM installation in a FWD car. The cruise module use and function isn't as consistent as it should be for some reason.
darbysan MAR 03, 10:25 AM
I remember reading that some modules need to see the Cruise Inhibit wire to ground, while others preferred it to be left open. That's pin H, Dk Grn at the module. Something to try. Also remember the LED taillight issue. That definitely requires fixing to make the module work.

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