PFF - Pennock's Fiero Forum, PDA Edition

Fiero 2.8 Alternator Rebuild (Page 3/4)

theogre

MAY 03, 02:04 AM

quote

Originally posted by sardonyx247:
I had problems trying to swap to a CS, I think it fried them. {and} you can't push start it if the battery is tottaly dead...

Many have followed Wombat's directions here. Is a very common upgrade, not only for old GM but other brands of vehicles.
You got bad CS, Something is wrong with your car and/or can't follow Wombat's directions for whatever reason.

quote

Originally posted by sardonyx247:
Um, an alternator IS a battery charger.

No Alternator is design to charge a dead battery, below 11-10v. Low/Dead battery draws huge amps from the Alternator.
SI have a very long history problems, like blowing Diode(s), by doing as you say above. This is Why GM Made CS with low volt cutoff.

A normal starting Battery gets damage when you fast charge battery when under 10v. Alternator will fast charge if it survives. Just draw down under 11v (yes, eleven) will shorten battery life.
Even Optima deep cycles have problem, like short life, when you put too much charge amps, especially when battery is under 10v.
Lead Acid, Li-Ion and most other rechargeable batteries have small windows design to work. May make power til total dead but will affect longevity. Most Li-Ion, NiMH, NiCd chargers won't charge a dead cell/battery because battery can burst/explode. Many Car battery chargers are too dump and will try to charge a very low to dead battery and can cause battery busting/explosion.

quote

Originally posted by sardonyx247:
but I am alittle jadded with my SI 170 amp.

Advertise Amps, 170 105 etc, are Peak Amps. Peak Amps are just that. Is Maximum Power possible and most cars only see that on the highway. If you use "power pulley" then not even on highway in many cars. (This is covered in Watt Story...)

Same Peak Amps, 12SI makes Less amps vs CS130 at low to cruise RPM from engine.
12SI puts more engine load vs. CS130.
This is why "just 11 more amps" can and often does matter and is why Rodney and others says use power pulley then switch to CS.

All Alternators generate heat to make power. CS130 has second fan to cool electronics. Second fans work with plastic "Shield" inside of the alt to suck air thru heatsink on diode set and over the regulator. SI w/ one fan on outside is much less effective. Is why GM installed extra blower for V6 Fiero in 85-87 years.

sardonyx247

MAY 03, 04:00 AM

quote

Originally posted by theogre:
You got bad CS, Something is wrong with your car.

Very possible.

quote

Originally posted by theogre:
eek: No Alternator is design to charge a dead battery, below 11-10v. Low/Dead battery draws huge amps from the Alternator.
SI have a very long history problems, like blowing Diode(s), by doing as you say above. This is Why GM Made CS with low volt cutoff..

I ment in general. I know DEAD batteries you have to start out with very low amps to charge.

quote

Originally posted by theogre:
Advertise Amps, 170 105 etc, are Peak Amps. Peak Amps are just that. Is Maximum Power possible and most cars only see that on the highway. If you use "power pulley" then not even on highway in many cars. (This is covered in Watt Story...)

Same Peak Amps, 12SI makes Less amps vs CS130 at low to cruise RPM from engine.
12SI puts more engine load vs. CS130.
This is why "just 11 more amps" can and often does matter and is why Rodney and others says use power pulley then switch to CS.

This I know, thus why I wanted to switch to the CS in the first place, I had charging problems at idle, no power pully, I have alot of accesories and amps.
But with this 170 I have no problems at idle any more, it was made for car audio.

Don't get me wrong, the CS IS a better performing alternator, especialy at idle, amp for amp rating.
and engine load is negligible, at full draw the stock 94 amp only takes about 2 HP,

The BIG draw is the radiator fan, running it is about 18 or so amps, not so much of a big deal, to start it, it pulls around 80 amps, I have tested this with 3 different amp meters to be sure. I used to have my fan on with the key, or the A/C always on. (This is Vegas and it is damn hot here)

theogre

MAY 03, 11:07 AM

quote

Originally posted by sardonyx247:
The BIG draw is the radiator fan, running it is about 18 or so amps, not so much of a big deal, to start it, it pulls around 80 amps, I have tested this with 3 different amp meters to be sure. I used to have my fan on with the key, or the A/C always on. (This is Vegas and it is damn hot here)

Something is wrong w/ fan circuit.
Should draw ~11 amps when engine running. Motor is going south or motor getting low volt. see Electric Motors and Check G101, that's only ground for fan motor.

no2pencil

MAY 04, 11:12 AM

Success!

Continuing sanding....

no2pencil

MAY 04, 03:08 PM

I don't think there is much more that I can realistically sand. It's going to have to sit until I can find a way to sand blast it. Then it's ready to be painted!

no2pencil

MAY 04, 04:49 PM

For less than $40 (plus shipping), this could have saved me some time :P

theogre

MAY 04, 05:24 PM

quote

Originally posted by no2pencil:
For less than $40 (plus shipping), this could have saved me some time :P

You have 12SI.
See http://store.alternatorpart...tors-parts-kits.aspx and http://store.alternatorparts.com/housings-2.aspx

no2pencil

MAY 31, 04:57 PM

Since I can't find anyone with a sandblaster, or anywhere reasonably priced, to sandblast these intake parts myself, I bought some paint stripper today & went to it.

As it was received, quite sometime ago from mattwa (I think)

Yuck.

I had started to hand sand it some time ago, didn't get far & figured this is not a realistic way to do this.

Everything prepared.

I started off lazy. As a result, this one came out poorly. We can see here that I didn't bother to clean it. At all. I figured the chemicals would eat through the dirt.