Neil's Aventador build (Page 3/74)
Neils88 MAR 26, 10:01 PM
First part of the stretch is finished. It is important to make scribed reference marks prior to making the cuts. Also, remember that the stretch is with respect to the center of the front cradle mount holes. If you change the angle of the mount after the cut (which can make it easier to weld in the insert piece), remember that scribe marks on the top or bottom of the cradle may no longer give accurate stretch measurements. This is the one part where you need to measure multiple times, both before you tack weld the inserts and after. Ensure the stretch lengths are correct and equally important, make sure diagonal measurements are the same.
Neils88 MAR 29, 11:33 PM
Some pics of this weekends work....







Ok...time to get some better ventilation in the garage for when I'm welding....



The engine cradle rails and the upper frames are relatively simple since they are all just straight beams. The main issues for the stretch involve the lower frame rails. They lie at a slight angle. When cut and separated, the frame rails can no longer use a straight beam if you want the beam to sit inside the rail at least several inches. The best solution is to weld up inserts with angled ends:



You'll still need a little force to get them into place. I used a 6000 lb ratcheting tie down strap...in conjunction with some spirited hits from the hammer to encourage the lower rails to get to the right position. Don't forget...lots of scribe marks before you cut the rails and measure, measure, measure!!!
Neils88 MAR 30, 09:39 PM
The drivers side inserts are starting to look more finished. I will be adding an angled support post at a later date once I get a better idea of the exact positions of some of the mechanicals in that area.
DisplacementIsKing MAR 30, 10:14 PM
Nice progress, while you are extending your frame rails, I am making new ones lol
Neils88 APR 04, 08:35 PM
The rails are now finally complete for the stretch. I was able to keep the same feel as the stock rails and just extend it. You won't be able to see them once the body is on, but I still wanted them to be as seamless as possible. I'll leave the sheet metal open for now. Once I mount the dual radiators I'll be able to see better what I should do with the sheet metal to give the best function and appearance. Same with the angled support braces. I need the radiators and body panels to determine what the best configuration is for strength and functionality.



It looks more like a stretch limo now...


Neils88 APR 04, 08:45 PM
Another pic of the passenger side rail.

Neils88 APR 04, 09:14 PM
I never mentioned anything about the welding. Welding inserts can be a little tough since the inserts are likely to be 1/8" while the spaceframe uses 16 gauge sheet metal. The spaceframe uses sheet metal stamped into shape and welded with other stamped pieces creating a structurally strong boxed frame. There is a bit of a trick to weld 1/8" to 16 gauge (about 1/16") metal. Set the heat and feed as you would normally for welding 1/8" steel. Start the welding on the 1/8" metal and then push the bead over onto the 16 gauge momentarily. If you do it right the molten metal wave will wash over the light gauge metal, and there will be sufficient heat in it to melt and weld to the lighter gauge metal. Weld small lengths at a time, no more the 1/4 - 1/2". Too much heat and you'll blow holes through the light gauge metal...then you get to play "chase the hole" (Anyone who has tried to weld light gauge metal will know what I mean.) Pausing every 1/4-1/2" for the bead to stop glowing will help ensure that it doesn't build up too much heat in the light gauge. There are a number of good YouTube videos showing how to do this. Practice lots before trying to weld the spaceframe for the first time.

Another trick (I learned this one from Steve ) is to clamp a copper pipe behind the light gauge metal where you are going to weld. It will help draw heat away from the weld location and help limit blow-though. Most areas of the spaceframe are tough to get a pipe into though so this method won't help too much unfortunately.
Jims88 APR 05, 06:36 PM
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Neils88:

This is the moment where you know you are committed...



Nice work!
From the point of no return to back together in 11 days
Cool welding trick too; adding some sort of heat sink to thinner gauge metal.

[This message has been edited by Jims88 (edited 04-06-2015).]

Neils88 APR 12, 09:28 PM
I've been taking a little bit of time to work on some of the programming that's required, while I'm waiting for the body kit to be delivered. I plan on using a number of computers / microprocessors to handle many of the functions of the car. Here's a list of "modules" I'll be using:

DDM - (Dash Display Module). I'm using a PICO ITX for control of the dash display. The PICO ITX is a full computer system that is the size of a pack of cards. I can run a compressed version of Windows XP or Windows 7, stripped down with just relevant functions installed to improve performance. The system has 1 GB of RAM, runs at 1 GHz, has four USB ports and even an HDMI output. My goal is to replicate the real Aventador dash fairly closely. (There is a link to a screen capture video below)

DCM - (Dash Control Module). I'm using an Arduino Uno for connecting all sensor data (VSS, RPM, Oil pressure, Fuel level, etc.) to the DDM through one of its USB ports. The Arduinos are great small, fast running microprocessors that is perfect for reading and outputting both analog or digital signals to and from various sensors and equipment. Some signals will require some sort of processing before being sampled by the microprocessor. Analog signals are converted to a 10 bit integer value (0 - 1023), while digital signals are stored as a simple boolean value (true / false).

SCM - (Steering-wheel Control Module). This module will handle all controls from the steering wheel buttons, plus light and wiper stalks. Functions include: wipers, lights, cruise control, stereo control and dash interface. I'll be using an Arduino Mega to connect to the steering wheel functions. The Mega is similiar to the Uno. But whereas the Uno has 6 Analog and 14 digital I/O ports, the Mega has 16 Analog and 54 digital ports.

GMLAN. This module uses an Arduino Uno with an attached CAN shield to allow the creation of a GMLAN, as is normally used to communicate with various devices on a GM car. I'll need this to communicate with the power steering system that is installed. I'll talk about this setup at a later date.

BCM - (Body Control Module). This module also uses an Uno and interfaces with all of the various body components of the car, such as the active spoiler and vents, interior lights, door locks and door position sensors, etc. Two of the Arduinos will also run the smaller LCD displays that are normally seen to the sides and slightly forward of the main 10" dash display. The screens will be tied together with a replica Aventador trim molding.

These are the microprocessors and the PICO ITX computer:



I've been steadily adding all car functions to a spreadsheet to keep track of all wiring, port #s, resistance values and corresponding 10 bit integer values. An excerpt of the spreadsheet:



This is a video of my "prototype" dash display. It is running on a regular laptop, so obviously when it is running on the 10" LCD display you'll only have the black portion of the display. Unfortunately, the screen capture program only records at about 5-8 frames per second, so the video is very choppy. But you'll get the idea of what it should look like. I run through a number of functions, and turn on a "demo" mode that cycles all the main data through their range of values. I also have it display some random warning symbols, along with all the different modes.

[This message has been edited by Neils88 (edited 04-12-2015).]

kwagner APR 12, 10:50 PM
Digging your computer/electronics choices. Don't know if I've seen that many in a Fiero before. Looking forward to more